Hi, Be careful about have the nuts too close a fit in the hole because of galvanic corrosion, even with copper slip or similar, you'll have trouble getting them out again just like it can be with the spigot mounting.
Hi, That lower rear link looks like it's bent as well. That corner has had a really hard knock near the top of the wheel to do all that, check the stub axle isn't bent as well. If the leg hasn't been changed.
Hi, The trouble is that the way paint is mixed nowadays has changed from percentage to by weight, so it takes a good man on the 'paint scheme' to match it. Either take a sample of the colour from a panel in and compare it to the 'chip' books or get it spectrographed or even just pick one from...
Hi, What about these pressed into the stud holes then you can use tapered seat nuts to centralise the wheels on the studs?
I realise they are up here but see if you can find some down there.
Hi, Yes just flat it down with a block and wet and dry. I usually flat it after priming it, then again after paint, that way you don't get the primer 'edge'. It won't be that noticeable with the grey but can be with other colours. Then go over the ribs with a metal polish like Solvol Autosol...
Hi, They are not ideal compared to tuned length or extractor manifolds but because of the space constraints in the bay they are a good compromise. As said try and get hold of the bigger (exit) bore ones.
Hi, If I can understand from your broken English, which is far and away better than my broken flemish. If the oil pump shaft engages with the distributor then that is OK. So the problem lies with the pump gears being difficult to turn, yes? If so the spacer does need careful fettling...