Recent content by eightofthem

You can't really see the friction that's left on the band from where it's at unless it's totally failed and then the band is running metal on metal, you would know all about it then.

Sounds like the rear adjuster has not been adjusted / set correctly, or the rear band is at its limits.

You have a straight cam fitted. If you have the sump Pan off as per the pictures then that's perfect for setting the cable correctly to suit your set up as you can see all three setting points and check that upstairs at the buisness end.

That will vary depending on the type of kick down cam fitted and type of cable ( long or short ) With a short cable and cranked cam the cable at rest would be around 55-60mm at rest 95-98mm to full throttle 110-114 mm to kick down ( full travel ) This is measured from the end of the threaded...

Seen worse. Won't cause any pressure issues as the area lies within its own canal. Worth cleaning the hole out again though and check the throttle stop plate for wear where it meets the valve.

Do you have a BW35 or BW65?. The 35 can be split from the bell house which makes it easier to remove ( and less awkward ) 65 needs to come out as one. Both can be removed from under the car just watch the fan on the radiator when you remove the box.

If your shifts are late and sloppy then the cable is too slack, if the shifts are harsh and early then the cable is too tight. Just ensure the engine idle speed is set 600-650 rpm when warm ( lower if possible ) and your fluid level is correct. Also worth checking the linkage as this has a...

Just check the front of the Sun shaft, when it hit the floor it might have dislodged the relief ball valve in the middle of the shaft itself ( worth checking its free moving anyway ) I doubt it came out but good to check it.

Plate colours and prefix code ( before serial number ) denote what that particular transmission is allocated too vehicle wise, it also denotes as you have mentioned different engine applications. Each prefix code is allocated to a certain vehicle manufacturer and each prefix code / plate colour...

If that's your car pictured in the avatar ( Nada spec ) then my guess is you have a 9FU BW35 fitted, they do have a check valve spring in the valve body but the spring is very weak and just not up to the job especially if it has compressed over time as it's a really flimsy one. Early BW35,s had...

Way to clean for it to be my thumb Harvey :) Looking at the face of the sun shaft it is showing signs of wear, looks like the needle bearings are shot too. Unusual for the front needle to wear badly it's usually the rear one that suffers most. Be a good time to convert to dipstick and filler...

If your dipstick has a red end then it's the 65, the yellow end is 66 and it has 66 embossed into the handle. Harvey is quite right, the difference is the deeper sump pan

Yeah bit of a bummer that!, guess you need to keep looking, should be plenty out there for you.

PeterZRH said "There is an electronic version of the 4HP. I wonder "how electronic" is actually is. I had it on my BMW e34 5 series. It had a "sport" and "normal" selector but didn't appear to drive much differently to any other auto apart from the shift points." That's the early type Peter...

Sadly that is not the 4HP22 or 4HP24 Looks more like a 5HP or later ( ecu controlled ) : ( I have plenty of 4HP 22 and 24 boxes if you need one. Non electronic