Recent content by eightofthem

Seen worse. Won't cause any pressure issues as the area lies within its own canal. Worth cleaning the hole out again though and check the throttle stop plate for wear where it meets the valve.

Do you have a BW35 or BW65?. The 35 can be split from the bell house which makes it easier to remove ( and less awkward ) 65 needs to come out as one. Both can be removed from under the car just watch the fan on the radiator when you remove the box.

If your shifts are late and sloppy then the cable is too slack, if the shifts are harsh and early then the cable is too tight. Just ensure the engine idle speed is set 600-650 rpm when warm ( lower if possible ) and your fluid level is correct. Also worth checking the linkage as this has a...

Just check the front of the Sun shaft, when it hit the floor it might have dislodged the relief ball valve in the middle of the shaft itself ( worth checking its free moving anyway ) I doubt it came out but good to check it.

Plate colours and prefix code ( before serial number ) denote what that particular transmission is allocated too vehicle wise, it also denotes as you have mentioned different engine applications. Each prefix code is allocated to a certain vehicle manufacturer and each prefix code / plate colour...

If that's your car pictured in the avatar ( Nada spec ) then my guess is you have a 9FU BW35 fitted, they do have a check valve spring in the valve body but the spring is very weak and just not up to the job especially if it has compressed over time as it's a really flimsy one. Early BW35,s had...

Way to clean for it to be my thumb Harvey :) Looking at the face of the sun shaft it is showing signs of wear, looks like the needle bearings are shot too. Unusual for the front needle to wear badly it's usually the rear one that suffers most. Be a good time to convert to dipstick and filler...

If your dipstick has a red end then it's the 65, the yellow end is 66 and it has 66 embossed into the handle. Harvey is quite right, the difference is the deeper sump pan

Yeah bit of a bummer that!, guess you need to keep looking, should be plenty out there for you.

PeterZRH said "There is an electronic version of the 4HP. I wonder "how electronic" is actually is. I had it on my BMW e34 5 series. It had a "sport" and "normal" selector but didn't appear to drive much differently to any other auto apart from the shift points." That's the early type Peter...

Sadly that is not the 4HP22 or 4HP24 Looks more like a 5HP or later ( ecu controlled ) : ( I have plenty of 4HP 22 and 24 boxes if you need one. Non electronic

Some pictures of the box would help, especially the connector ( does it have a kick down cable ) and is the selector arm on the right or left looking from the front?

Replace the condenser, and check the float bowls in the carbs, the float may be sticking or there may be a build up of crud inside.

Not used the composite gasket, always stuck with the cork which work well when fitted correctly. Make sure the sump pan is flat along the mating surface, if it is not then make it so. Use hylomar ( universal blue ) on the pan face only then refit and tighten the bolts until just over hand tight...

I don't think the issue is with the valve body swap, I would try and set the throttle valve cable correctly, or check that it is. Also ensure your engine idle speed is set between 600-650 RPM before you start and check all the linkage relating to throttle set up including the spindle bush are as...