Recent content by eightofthem

I have the bracket and the link rod with kick down pin and "C" clip. I don't have the spring and it will need a Rubber bush ( I used a grommet from an electrical wall socket, the ones that stop wires from being chaffed and trimmed it to fit ) worked a treat.

AHH, ok. I probably have the bits for a later set up here. Will look next time I go in the shed of dread

Why not just fit the cable directly to the carbs as per the early RV8 set up. They had a bracket that bolted to the elbow connection and then it fitted to a link on the carbs.

Start off by doing as the above post described. You need to find three points, 1 rest. Slowly pull the slack from the inner cable until you find a point of resistance. This is your REST position to be set with engine idle speed set as low as possible. 2 Full throttle Pull out the inner cable...

So it sounds like the converter you have is a used one ?

8 weeks to recondition a BW35! Wow! Also I would be worried by the builders comment of " your converter is from a P6 and not a P6B"

Have one or two here if your stuck

That's the standard Speedo angle drive found on most of the automatic transmission range fitted to Rover cars along with a few others except jaguar /Daimler cars which differ

I suspect its low on fluid especially as you mentioned you have a leak. Level has probably dropped to a point where there is just not enough fluid to keep the clutch energised. Top it up some more and give it another go

Yes, that's usually a sign of a cracked main case.

Thank you all for your input, I am trying to find homes for a lot of parts for a lot of various makes and models before they get scrapped, so if anyone is in need of them let me know and I can put you in touch with the vendor.

As per the post all, any help with identifying these would be most appreciated They are marked up as Rover.

You could probably use brake pipe along with the bending tool

The GM has or should have an adjustable modulator that you can vary the shift points to suit, it's a case of trial and error. If you look at the rear of the modulator you will see the adjustment screw, make sure it's screwed in slightly before you start your adjustments. As for the pipe itself...

Two grunts will do it. I would use some form of corrosion barrier on the bolts rather than any locking fliud. When they corrode in the main case they snap the bolts lugs off it