Recent content by PeterZRH

I do tend to boot it to activate the kick down. Maybe I need to be a bit more gentle...

I didn't install it. So basically, it is too slack? Could the crimp move or the cable stretch perhaps?

PM you...

Anyone seen/heard from him lately? I emailed him some weeks ago and messaged him. No reply so far. Thanks, Peter.

One the plus side I can vouch for Andy's skills. 12000mile and 6-7 years in the fluid is as as new, no smells, no particles, no leaks.

Hi all, anyone spoken to Andy (@eightofthem) lately. I tried emailing a few weeks ago and I PM'd him here over the weekend? Desperately need a need control cable or a suggestion for keeping the ferule on the end in the mechanism. The one I have the pin moves sideways and comes out and I...

The 14CUX ain't exactly big. I'm not sure what the problem is. If it didn't fit on the A-pillar then it could certainly fit in the drivers glovebox or possibly under the seat. Or under a metal cover in the passenger footwell. Most likely up underneath the dashboard under the glovebox where...

If you over tighten them it will damage the box quite quickly. You'll notice the steering wont self-centre. EP90 will nicely remove underseal when it leaks - ask me how I know...

Has the mechanism failed or does it simply need tightening i.e more twist in the torsion bar? And the mechanism and basic frames are all the same so you could rebuild the seat with what you have.

Reconditioned original calipers are far better than new as they are stainless lined. In principle in practical terms they'll last forever with only new seals required. I would not buy new parts made to an uncertain specification and quality.

The main challenge for ignition is actually at the higher end of the rev range. Mechanical points can bounce and the charge time for the coil is much smaller, especially in engine with high cylinder counts. At idle with points that would indicate some issue. One of the best things you can do...

If the points ignition is in optimum condition it'll make no difference at all. The point being points ignition doesn't STAY in optimal condition whereas electronics should.

Are you doing it as original with only leather facings or the whole seat?

If the coil is correct then it can only be the ballast. Most likely cause is high resistance joint in the circuit. There is no ballast resistor, it's a length of resistance wire it can't really "burn out as such very easily. 5.5V from the coil to ground is as you say too low.

Another thing is your tacho RVI or RVC? It'll say on the face. RVI means the ignition is wired through the tacho and can cause issues. TVC is in parallel.