I thought it was so you could turn it to get the big gap at the bottom, so when you tipped the engine back to remove the gearbox, it didn't take a chunk out of the radiator.
I may have made that up :hmm:
Not sure of their name, but they are 14" SD1 alloys.
It's best to get the SD1 studs, nuts and grease caps if you can.
Studs, and SD1 nuts are M12 1.5
Richard
It's sitting in petrol so even the tiniest perforation can, over time, allow petrol in. If you leave it out for the same period of time, it will come out.
Welcome to the forum BTW :)
Oh dear, that doesn't look like a whole load of fun. I have a 4L cross bolted engine but it uses an SD1 front cover and oil pump so it just fits the same as the 3.5.
Best of luck stripping it down :)
Up should be all four, same as pull back (Headlamp flash). The outer lamps have two filaments, one for main beam, one for dip.
Down should be dipped beams - outer only.
I'm running the Rover Hotwire system run by megasquirt, but it's not sequential, it's batchfired. It's certainly more adjustable than a four barrel, and produces a better tune than my old Weber, but it's really complicated to do and takes a whole heap of learning.
I have found a picture of mine when I first got it, I have rewired that spade since then :)
If you're still using a ballasted coil, I am sure you will be able to wire it into the black cable already on there, or from the 6RA
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