Recent content by Tom Rymes

  1. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Lockheed Servo

    Thanks, @Vern Klukas. I don't have the original, but if I did I would be tempted.
  2. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Lockheed Servo

    Thanks again, Demetris, and thank you, Vern. I think I might take a chance on this servo from Barratt, just because they are close to me, and returns to UK vendors if something goes wrong could be tricky. I did get to the car and the parts list, so here are the relevant pages (168 and 169). You...
  3. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Lockheed Servo

    Thank you, @Demetris. My car was built May 25,1966, so it would have had a Lockheed servo with Girling master cylinder and Dunlop brakes by your information.
  4. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Lockheed Servo

    @Ban306: I'm all for buying from folks who support the Rover community, and may very well if I go down this road and have the option. The servo in question is a Delphi/Lockheed part, so I imagine it's available from vendors other than SNG Barratt. Having said that, SNG Barrat USA is a...
  5. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Lockheed Servo

    I may have answered my own question, but then again, it's not 100% clear: This document from Moss lists the LR18230 as the proper unit for a Rover 2000 and 2200, but only from Chassis suffix "C", and my car is an "A" suffix car. Given that literally everything in the braking system changed...
  6. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Lockheed Servo

    My car is an early car with Dunlop brakes and instead of the proper Lockheed servo, it came to me with a "PowerTune" knockoff version of a Lockheed servo. This was discussed in this thread when I purchased my car. The brake feel is still quite notchy, almost as if the piston sticks in the...
  7. Tom Rymes

    Slight miss at idle with popping exhaust

    That’s right! Steve Dutcher rebuilt the aluminum Weslake head on my 3-litre P5 when I still had it, and the work was beautiful.
  8. Tom Rymes

    Oil leak

    So far, so good. I fit one to my MGB last year, and I removed the valve cover to adjust the valves this spring. Still looks like new, and I didn’t have to use a new gasket or Hylomar the daylights put if it, etc. Just put it back on and be certain not to over-tighten! Got it here: Search...
  9. Tom Rymes

    Slight miss at idle with popping exhaust

    If you ever need a shop for head repair (you said you're in NEW England, right?), River City Machine in White River Junction, VT and Dutcher engineering in western MA have both done right by me.
  10. Tom Rymes

    Oil leak

    I just replaced a very old, very thin, cracked valve cover gasket with a silicone one, and it seems to have significantly reduced my oil leakage, which I thought might have been something far more serious, given how much there was, and how it was blown all over then engine block by the fan. It...
  11. Tom Rymes

    Early NADA 2000TC Crankcase Breather

    Thanks, Guys, sounds like it's part of the automatic chassis lubrication system. I still think that something has to be wrong with this part, even if it's awfully similar, as it sure does look to be cut-down from something else.
  12. Tom Rymes

    Fuel pump for a 2200 engined P6

    My '66 NADA 2000 TC has a glass dome, FWIW.
  13. Tom Rymes

    engine breather pipe

    My apologies for resurrecting a (VERY!) old thread, but I wanted to chime in that I have an early 1966 NADA 2000TC that has the system in the photo posted above by @KiwiRover. It has the flat cap on the valve cover and a draft tube connected via a rubber elbow to the RH front of the engine. If...
  14. Tom Rymes

    Early NADA 2000TC Crankcase Breather

    I have a very early 2000TC that does not have a PCV system. My car looks just like the picture at the end of this thread, with a flat cap on the rear valve cover and a draft tube at the RH front of the engine. Under my car's flat cap on the valve cover I have a metal gauze filter that seems to...
  15. Tom Rymes

    Early 2000TC Tachometer Removal?

    So, I am resurrecting this thread, as I finally got around to pulling the tachometer. As is so often the case, I stumbled into some blind alleys and it took many hours the first time, but I bet I could remove and refit in under 30 minutes at this point (fine, maybe an hour). Here's the right way...
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