Sleipnir's very early original engine

Depending which option is cheaper, a new liner, installation, machining or a new piston, you have another option....
If you can get the conrod bolts loosened, you could probably remove the liner with the piston in it.
Then, slit the liner and release the captive piston that way.
 
before i attack this piston with a power tool.... Where is the piston grading written? If it happens to come out without damaging the liner it'd be good to know what the grade was....

A piece of 4x2 inch wood and a large rubber mallet and beat the shit out of it, it will release one way or another.
 
IIRC, the pistons on my engine (9.25:1) were marked on the top side. Just take a piston already removed and brush the top side. I made this with WD40 and an abrasive pad.
 
You will very likely damage the bore trying to cut out a piston which will lead to a new liner. As said above a hardwood block and a lump hammer will get it shifted.
 
OK - more bashing it is.... it's had a nice pool of atf fluid sitting over it for the last 3 weeks...
 
OK. So another hammer mishap. This one close to the bore. If I haven't completely killed it I think I need to get someone else to do this. I'm too ham-fisted.

Before I start talking to V8tuner etc does anyone here feel they could do the job if I deliver the engine and pay them?
 
I would think with the level of stick you have between piston and bore that the bore would be badly ridged at the rings anyway, so I'd keep beating on it and order a new sleeve in the meanwhile.
Get a chunk of wood like a 4x4 and round the corners off it so it fits in the bore and get a sledge hammer to ease it out.
 
If you're worried about hitting the top of the block with a hammer then why not get a bit of scaffold board or similar, hole-saw a hole to expose the piston and then make a big wooden drift as suggested above. Wallop hard until the piston moves and if you miss then the scaffold board should protect the top of the block.
 
If you're worried about hitting the top of the block with a hammer then why not get a bit of scaffold board or similar, hole-saw a hole to expose the piston and then make a big wooden drift as suggested above. Wallop hard until the piston moves and if you miss then the scaffold board should protect the top of the block.
Or, just use a BIG hammer......:eek::D



OK, OK, no need to shove, I'll get my coat.....:)
 
I have always found a really large rubber mallet to be very effective, less chance of cracking the piston but still have the inertia and mass having good affect when thumped as hard as your arms will allow.


Graeme
 
Stan came round last night to have a look and the upshot is the engine is dead.

Real shame but at least I can move on. Will be sad to leave it for the scrap man....
 
Don't forget the coffee table option, Rich!

Depending which way I go with Occie's engine, I may have something useable for you.....I'll know reasonably soon if you can hang on a while.
 
Stan came round last night to have a look and the upshot is the engine is dead.

Real shame but at least I can move on. Will be sad to leave it for the scrap man....
How bad can it be Rich? Is it too far gone for your available budget or is there something more?
 
Bit of both. My naivety in engines is partly to blame too.
You wanted to keep this as it's the original engine, right? Unless the block is knackered you could make it a long term rebuild, getting things done as you can afford it - who cares if it takes forever (said the guy that pulled his engine out in 2012 :eek:) My engine has been slowly, but surely working it's way through the machining and rebuilding process - at my current rate I am thinking it'll be ready the day after never but, I persevere nonetheless...
 
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