75 P6 Engine Tick After Warming Up

Had the same problem recently. Installed my manifold with special engine silicone sealant, but had a leak at one conection for the coolant. So, everything off again, but no way first, the silicone holds it firmly on the heads. Started with a knife like you did, there´s not other chance. Then used a "spatula blade" and carefully hammered it between with a rubber mallet port by port.
Finally hammering carefully with rubber mallet and a piece of wood until you see a wider gap, then using again spatula blade and so on.....
It cost me 2 hours, but you cannot use a screwdriver or anything like this, it´s all aluminium. When the valley gasket is off, you have to clean the contact surfaces of the heads and manifold, so cover the valley carefully with an old rag. That will be another fine work. For refitting, I have used now a compound valley gasket and blue Hylomar for the coolant ports only. Before you apply any sealant, make a "fitting" test without it.
 
I can't speak for the Rover manifold, but I have seen some engines lifted with a plate on the manifold, so I think it's going to be able to handle a fair bit of abuse.
12738chunk2a.jpg
 
Good morning all,

Thanks for the tips again.
After some jimmying and prying, the inlet manifold finally came off nice and smooth.

Now to look at the pushrods and lifters.

On first glance all the pushrods look to be in pretty good nick.

When checking out the lifters, it seems about 4 of them are stuck in the up position. Could this be the source of my original issues? Or do they start to function when the engine is running?

Next step is to get the head off, so time to look at bolt orders etc.

Pictures of the progress

The journey

To be continued...
 
Looking at your picture, I'd suggest a closer look at the camshaft lobes for rounding off.
Remember to keep the lifters in sequence for reinstallation if you do reuse them.
 
Sorry but putting that engine together again with that much crap inside it is a false economy. In your first pic the rubber hose coming off the inlet manifold is almost completely blocked with jellified anti freeze, also the coolant port on the cyl head is caked up. That's just for starters on the coolant side, expect all the other hoses to be similar, and the radiator to be blocked too.
The lifters you see on the bottom of the pushrods move up and down so some will be at different heights to the others depending on whether they are being pushed up by the round rod with bumps on it underneath ( the camshaft )
Ah the camshaft ........ does not look to be in good shape so that will need changing, with a new cam you need new lifters.
The timing chain will be stretched and will need replacement as a set with the gears.
The reason your lifters are ticking is because they are not pumping up properly, probably because their oil feed holes are blocked.
So basically your engine needs a full rebuild as the blow by you are seeing at the dipstick tube means the piston rings and bores are worn.
With this in mind either start getting prices from an engine shop for a rebuild or maybe pick up another engine in better shape - gamble !
This may well have taken the shine off your day but it is better said than you wasting money on an engine that will never be right until rebuilt properly.
 
thats a heavy 'tapping' on engines I have worked on was almost always issues with cam or small end . too hard to be a broken ring . however did we check when intake manifold off by turning engine over by and that the seemingly 'stuck' lifters /rods didn't then chosen and revolve? if for example on top of cam lift we don't generally get free movement in standard engines but hydraulic ( not an escort on these) ought to have drained oil pressure off I would have though to allow a slight free movement. if the same once are stiff even when on back of cam? then odds are lifter(s) are bad and need replacing . since it might be sensible to check cam for wear too and replace all as a set . plus timing chain and gears .. a compression test is also a very useful guide to state of basic engine . do carry out wet and dry compression test if dry compressions vary more than 10% from high to lowest. if we see large compression increase when wet testing each cylinder .( ensure fully charged battery and ALL plugs out when testing ) then odds are we have poor ring sealing ob pistons that cylinder. if NO increase in pressure ? odds are worn or leaking valve seal(s) .glad thats not my engine but Mine does tap quiet bit .however not noticable when in car driving ...
 
Evening all,

This information is invaluable to me, so thank you again for the replies.

I'll provide some background to my car expertise, which may provide some context to what I'm doing, and how grateful I am for the comments so far.

I moved to QLD at the beginning of 2015, driving my Alfa 159 from Adelaide. After buying new tyres for the princely sum of $495 each, I decided running costs were a bit much, so sold it.

I took the cash from the Alfa, did a quick search on the web for a replacement, and stumbled on the rover sitting in an old mans shed under sheets and boxes. After a battery change and a tank of petrol, I drove it the 3 hours back home that day.

Before buying this car I'd never done so much as change the oil on any car, so this whole thing is a learning experience. I know now than I would have imagined 18 months ago.

i want to do absolutely everything on this car myself, as I'm really enjoying it. But I feel I may have reached my limit with this. I'll start shopping for a replacement engine, or even a donor car while continuing to tinker with what I have. Cleaning, pulling things apart, and conducting as much research as I can.

Thanks again,

Mick
 
Mick
You are not doing wrong by taking the engine apart, you would be getting into trouble if you put it together again in the state it is in.
Continue reading and taking apart what you have and by all means clean everything up. Box and label things carefuly and then seek further advice.
Its fun learning how an engine works, hats off to you for getting stuck in :)

Mark
 
What Mark said, +1.
That engine needs to be taken apart, if not BY you, then for you. There is no reason at all why you cant/shouldn't do it,either.
If you are methodical and mark/label everything as you strip it, it will all be there to put back. Manuals are plentiful and detailed enough that a beginner will not go astray.
There is also the wealth of experience on here that will see you through the sticky bits when you hit them.

If you are going to shop around for another engine, I'd still suggest you strip your old engine, just for the experience of stripping and reassembling it.
Even if you don't do an overhaul on it, just play with it.
 
I'd echo the statements above - given the thick layer of black goo and the state of the camshaft i'd say that needs a rebuild, doesn't look like it had the oil changed that often, if ever.

I would also say that rebuilding an engine is one of the most satisfying things you can do. I rebuilt the 3.5 v8 that I fitted to my Land-rover, and once you are past the "cleaning off all the gunk" stage and putting clean bits back together its actually very therapeutic :)

There are plenty of manuals online, notably the actual Land-rover workshop guides which are easy to find as pdf from various places and are very clear and detailed. Then you also have places like here and v8forum.co.uk to ask questions if you need.

Heres a link to my rebuild and engine swap - doesn't cover the actual rebuild in much detail:

The V8 Owners Forum - :: View topic - LR 90 2.25 4cyl> rover 3.5

Here's another thread that's definitely worth a look - a great rebuild job being done here (I think Peter is on this forum too):

Rover P5B Coupe | Retro Rides


Good luck!
 
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