After 20 years a P6 again finally a V8 automatic. With work that is.....

Well tested it and worked!!!! Reverse lights are working!!!! But......... I could start the engine in every position of the handle!! So I followed the white red Wires. I hoped to find them connected behind the speakergrill in front. I knew that is an old trick to bypass the switch in case it fails... but everything was original there...... So behind the panel with all the switches I found a tabconnector ( I hate these connectors!) That connected a black(!) wire to the positive of the strarter relais. I removed that wire and all was fine with the inhibitor switch and it functions now as it should!
So progress is made!!!! Still have to sort the ignition because it does not start as fast as i wish. The ignition is in a Lucas 35DE8 distributor. I heard these are not the most reliable around..... Bad luck. I might change this for a better system in the near future. ( suggestions?????)
Fist I have to find out whether there is a ballast resistor somewhere. I could not find it and the postive side of the coil gave 12 volt with ignition on So that could mean there is no ballast resistor present.
 
Well the brakelights didn't work i i was looking in the engine bay for the switch. I couldn't find it! It turned out to be at the brake pedal.... Biut the switch waas ceased and didn't work. I tried to repair it but failed horriby so I am desperately in need for a replacement. Does anybody knwo where to get them? it has a unf 3/8 thread:
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You could try Johan Löwik (classic-rover.nl) or Berry Smink if you want to see if you can find it in The Netherlands! :)
 
Colin answered my question in the parts wanted topic. I now ordered one in the Netherlands. Looks very similar to part of Landrover: 575166
 
Excellent handicraft! Why buy a new part when you can repair the old, always been my philosophy. So long as its all done in a professional manner and not a "Bodge"

Once all confirmed going you might want to seal the screw threads so they cant vibrate loose.

Hopefully your switch contact finger still have some spring tension to give positive contact to the Lucas connector contacts.
 
PepijnWK said:
Fist I have to find out whether there is a ballast resistor somewhere. I could not find it and the postive side of the coil gave 12 volt with ignition on So that could mean there is no ballast resistor present.
Click to expand...

The ballast is a ballast wire not a resistor block so you wont find a traditional Ballast Resistor. Havent got the wiring diagram in front of me at the moment but from memory its a yellow wire with a white trace, others can confirm?


Graeme
 
I don't think the balastresistorwire is attached But als not wire straight from the solenoid. The wiring is a mess. The previous owner didnot exactly know what he was doing I guess. He used all kinds of colours ( red and Black and used them randomly. What ever he got his hands on first he used.
Yesterday I found out that the light in the gear illumination at the gear lever didn't work. The caus was that a wire was cut during carpeting. Luckily I found the sliced wire en repaired it.

I really like these connectors:

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they are pricey but do the job and do not take a lot of room.

yesterday replaced the hazardlight relay for a chinese one which I had and now works! The lights went on with the old one but didn't start to blink.

the indicators were also very slow! I reversed the wires and voila worked a lot better!!!

I think the car is almost ready for its APK (Dutch MOT)

I have to sort out the starting still but that is not a APK failure......
 
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ghce said:
Excellent handicraft! Why buy a new part when you can repair the old, always been my philosophy. So long as its all done in a professional manner and not a "Bodge"

Once all confirmed going you might want to seal the screw threads so they cant vibrate loose.

Hopefully your switch contact finger still have some spring tension to give positive contact to the Lucas connector contacts.
Click to expand...

Thanks! At the end I glued the seems and the threads with hot glue. Started to look like a bodge then but still works like a charm! Spent a few hours to repair it. So is it economical to repair it. Probably not but hey who cares! I like to fix things and throwing away is the last option!!I share your philosophy!!
 
Well, today my search for the ignition continued..........
The previous owner added a wire from the ignition switch (from the switched 12v Brown/Purple) to the + from the coil. meaning that the coil will get its 12 v constantly so bypassing the resitantwire.

This rules out the fact that that the bypass for the resistant wire fell off. It is not present , but it has been permanantly bypassed by the wire from the brown purple switched positive.

I thought there was something strange because by switchin off the engine it only switches of in the 1 position while normal the engine runs in the III position and when the key is turned into the II position the engine stops but the contact is on so the wipers and so on will work. Well the engine kept running in the II position. That is how I discovered the bypass.

But why does the engine only start at the end of the starting cycle only upon release of the key..

I really do not understand!! what am I missing??? or is it something with the efi??
 
What has happened is that there is likely now no feed to the ignition coil when the starter motor is cranking the engine over because the starter solenoid should be putting 12 Volts to the coil when cranking to aid starting.

When the cranking position on the ign switch is released ie normal running the coil should be energised with 6 Volts due to the ballast.

So in your case the engine is not firing on crank because the 12 Volts has been removed ie faulty, the engine fires on stopping cranking because the 6 volts has been applied to the coil so engine fires.

Graeme
 
ghce said:
What has happened is that there is likely now no feed to the ignition coil when the starter motor is cranking the engine over because the starter solenoid should be putting 12 Volts to the coil when cranking to aid starting.

When the cranking position on the ign switch is released ie normal running the coil should be energised with 6 Volts due to the ballast.

So in your case the engine is not firing on crank because the 12 Volts has been removed ie faulty, the engine fires on stopping cranking because the 6 volts has been applied to the coil so engine fires.

Graeme
Click to expand...
aha that makes sense! I should take the 12 volt of the solenoid and bring that to the + of the ignition coil. if I understand you corretly.
 
A quick look at the wiring diagram indicates that the 12 volt bypass wire comes off the starter motor and makes it's way to the coil, possibly white with a yellow trace but given the hash of the wiring system the previous owner has made who knows what bodge he made to get it to work.

Graeme
 
This morning I removed the wire of the ignitionswitch to the coil. I attached both white wires with yellow tracers on the + of the coil but now it does not start at all. Bummer!!
I will try to make a new wire from the starter solenoid to the coil to see if that helps!!
 
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Well the repair of part is not always succesfull...... I tried to repair the brakelight switch which was stuck. I pushed the little rod in and it never came back.... I tried lots of things! Hammering, penetration oil . and at the end I took the end of with a saw and pulled the litlle pin out. Ofcourse it was springloaded so the spring vanished immediately. Found it though but lost it on the next attempt to put it together.
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but asked here on the forum if someone knew what part it was or where to buy it. Colin pointed me in the right direction and wrote that it is the some on a landrover.
I ordered the piece and I got it yesterday. Was the same part with the right thread!! Thank you!!

PUOPiThl.jpg


So two issues remain: the starting and as I found out the clock is not working.
 
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Well not much luck or succes yet. I tried to start the engine with a extra wire from the solenoid to the ignition coil:
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I piggybacked the left (white yellow cable and add the wire there direct on the + from the coil. No starting!! Engine and startermotor both crank but no ignition....
 
I could not follow the wires all the way so I tried something else: I hijacked the whitewire from the ignitionswitch and made it connect to the positive side of the ignition coil. And voila: starts like a charm.:):):):):):):):):):)

now the blower does not switch on anymore....... Weel it did work so I will find the cause!!!
Keeping you busy these old cars.....

well solved! that was a fuse issue. Fuse was ok but repositioning the fuse did the trick.... So a littlebit of cleaning and ready.......... problem solved.
 
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I am driving just around the block because the car is not insured yet and has nio MOT. But is fun to drive!!!!
Few thing s to be adressed before the MOT:
Seat belts are missing...

other thing not neccessarely for the MOT:
Speedo living its own life, dancing around.
Brake warninglight has to be repaired it is not working ( not sure if it is neccessary for MOT)
Exhaust has to be moved a little, it rattles now and than with bumpos in the road,
need 4 new tyres
the fuel gauge is not working

but I hope to recover seatbelts this week and go fot the APK ( Dutch MOT)
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1: Dancing speedo's can be caused by stiff right angle drives, one at each end of the cable, lubing them and the cable works wonders.
2: Rattling exhaust can be a misinterpreted worn rear or front engine mounts.

Graeme
 
ghce said:
1: Dancing speedo's can be caused by stiff right angle drives, one at each end of the cable, lubing them and the cable works wonders.
2: Rattling exhaust can be a misinterpreted worn rear or front engine mounts.

Graeme
Click to expand...
thanks Graeme. I am gonna lubriate the angle drives! And fo inspecting the mount i am going to take the rover on ramp to inspect things!

oh yess the clock doesnt work as well...... Not for MOT but I want everything to work properly,,,,,,,
 
First clue to engine mounts is how level the engine sits in the engine bay, most P6B's have a bit of a torque induced lean due to the ageing front rubber mounts. The rear is a little harder to spot and difficult to change out but certainly once that is worn things become a bit clunky when driving.
The clock however is a simple fix usually, look at some recent posts on here and you will find a link to repairing them.
 
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