Click Clack

Could it also be brake pads ?
Nope, it just went away after the diff swap.

Have found I can make the noise by being parked hard on the foot brake and loading the drive train back and forth.
This is what mine used to do, even though i did not had to try too hard. To me, it felt as if something was "giving" inside the diff.

So having again gone through a nut and bolt check have returned to the top diff mount bolts where I spotted the fretting on the near side bolt.

I have also spotted fretting on the same bolt, and this mounting was tired too, so i had it replaced. However in my case this was not connected to the diff noise.
 
Today found up some 2mm thick washers 30mm dia, cut a little flat to clear the turndown on the diff plate and installed those super tight. Noticed the panhard rod was almost grazing the diff plate despite being clearanced, so removed that and freed off the adjuster and took a little more off the diff plate to create room. Will replace bushes in due course.
Diff mounts are already poly.
Tested in the garage, had to really load up the drivetrain to make a very much quieter 'tick' each way. From inside the car I cannot pin point it.
Might road test again over the next couple of days, feeling confident nothing is about to fall off now.
 
Had a similar noise on a couple of p6s before.
The splines on the rear drive shafts should be locktighted into the rear hub assembly.
Can come loose overtime and click when pulling away
The hub nut is not particularly tight as over tighten will cause collapsible spacer to tighten the bearings.
 
Hey Clive
I gazed at the os rear hub tonight as from the driver seat with the door open it did sound as though the tick was near by.
I have just been thinking...... I had those half shafts out to change the UJ s I cannot remember using loctite.
Do you have a Loctite number for this ?

Ta M
 
BTW
I know I am all over the place on this, but I am beginning to realise that the one click or clack is probably coming from more than one place when load is applied, ie lots of stuff is complaining at the same time :rolleyes:
 
I had those half shafts out to change the UJ s I cannot remember using loctite.

I had those shafts out loads of times, for UJ swaps and shaft or hub changes, and I never used loctite, and never had problems. If you had the shafts out maybe you didn't tighten the nut enough. There's a knack to knowing the point where any tighter and you start compressing the spacer.
 
I was afraid of compressing the spacer further.
I would be easy to back off the nut and have a 'feel' to see if I can nip a bit further.
Ta H
 
I had those shafts out loads of times, for UJ swaps and shaft or hub changes, and I never used loctite, and never had problems. If you had the shafts out maybe you didn't tighten the nut enough. There's a knack to knowing the point where any tighter and you start compressing the spacer.

Do you think if I left the road wheel on and loosened the hub nut to get some bearing play at the wheel, then tightened until the play went that would be a good guide as to how tight to go ?
 
Do you think if I left the road wheel on and loosened the hub nut to get some bearing play at the wheel, then tightened until the play went that would be a good guide as to how tight to go ?

You can if you want, but you still need to go past the point where the play disappears to give you the preload.
 
Right. Had the car up the road. On / off throttle in 1st gear, the toughest test it will get and it's quiet - TFFT !
So me saying at the beginning I thought it was coming from the bellhousing did not help the diagnosis at all, not one bit :rolleyes:
What did help was H saying check the diff plate, thanks H !
So probably a clack from inside the diff, now dulled by the treacle I put in it, and also the diff plate moving on the upper bolts, and maybe being tweeked against the panhard rod ? was the cause.
I checked for rear wheel bearing play, none, so I am not going to try to fix that as it isn't broke.
You can all go for a lie down now.......
 
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