Engine Change

I guess if you remove the engine mount brackets it is. Probably need to pull the carbs and intake manifold too.
 
I just had a look in mine, and i can't see how the front of the engine is going to clear the front crossmember. The engine can't go and/or tilted back enough, because it is tight against the heater and bulkhead.
 
Yes, it is tight, but I managed to do it.
All the ancillaries were removed from the block. I had a couple of jacks either side of the block holding the block in position with a wooden cross member. With all connections removed from the gearbox assembly and one jack under the gearbox, I then lowered the gearbox until it was at a steep angle . There was some manoeuvring and rocking to do but the assemblies are now lying on the garage floor. The only casualty is the reversing light switch fitted to the right side of the gearbox
 
Well you learn something everyday. I would have bet money (a few pennies at least) it wasn't possible.

Now, the burning question, why? What was keeping you from pulling it the usual way?

Yours
Vern
 
I have the car well up from the floor front and back. I don't have an engine hoist or indeed room for one at the front of the car. So lowering the engine seemed an option.
I asked my grandson to make me a low height trolley with heavy duty castors to lower the engine and gearbox onto. Unfortunately the trolley arrived a day too late. So I will try to devise some method to drag the block and gearbox from underneath just behind the front wheel to the side of the car
 
It is worth noting, that the cylinder block was at its absolute minimum length prior to dropping the unit. With the water pump and crankshaft pulley removed it does make quite a difference.
Regards George
 
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