Rover p6b restoration

More work done yesterday this time coating the underside and front wheel tubs with raptor bedliner after previously doing the same to the rear end
I used 9 bottles of raptor in total so wasn't a cheap way to do it but has come out nice.20210904_122747.jpg20210904_122738.jpg20210904_122802.jpg20210904_122825.jpg20210904_125615.jpg
 
I've still been building the engine up, one head cleaned up, lapped in valves and fitted,
Also stripped the rockers and cleaned, minimal amount if wear so good to reuse

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And a lick if paint on the cleaned out sump
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Good to see the epoxy on the various suspension parts. A lot of people use powder coat but for me there are very few automotive applications where this is preferable to epoxy. Both are pretty similar in toughness and abrasion resistance BUT epoxy adhesion is just so much better. Once rust or water gets under powdercoat, the whole coating is toast. It just doesn't spread should epoxy get damaged. Epoxy all the time for me with a UV protective top coat ideally.
 
Good to see the epoxy on the various suspension parts. A lot of people use powder coat but for me there are very few automotive applications where this is preferable to epoxy. Both are pretty similar in toughness and abrasion resistance BUT epoxy adhesion is just so much better. Once rust or water gets under powdercoat, the whole coating is toast. It just doesn't spread should epoxy get damaged. Epoxy all the time for me with a UV protective top coat ideally.
I've never used powder coating and while I admit it does look nice it does appear to chip then lift off
Had a friend with a mini rear subframe that had been powdercoated and that started peeling off like in sheets.
 
Absolutely. Epoxy and a coat of dinitrol comes as close to defeating rust at home as is possible. I can't understand why people use still use older techniques when clearly they either don't work well or need at least annual inspection and repair. Powder coat has a certain correct OEM look. You kind of wonder as epoxy is really nothing at all new why it wasn't used from new in the 1970s?
 
BTW the cheap stuff for garage floors is as far as I can tell no different to the premium stuff such as 123 sold for automotive restoration. You can even get high zinc epoxy primer for metal really cheaply. I haven't used raptor so I have no idea if/how it's different from standard epoxy, I guess it is different in terms of the finish obtained
 
BTW the cheap stuff for garage floors is as far as I can tell no different to the premium stuff such as 123 sold for automotive restoration. You can even get high zinc epoxy primer for metal really cheaply. I haven't used raptor so I have no idea if/how it's different from standard epoxy, I guess it is different in terms of the finish obtained

I'm not an epoxy chemist but I do know one who we work very closely with. Epoxy floor paints are very different to the coating used in vehicle restoration, and I certainly wouldn't use a cheap floor paint to coat my car underside with.

Epoxy products are designed with many parameters, e.g. Toughness, water resistance, ability to bond to bare metal, ability to soak in and bond better on more porous surfaces, wear resistance, flow characteristics, cost, UV resistance, chemical resistance, etc etc.
 
I'm not an epoxy chemist but I do know one who we work very closely with. Epoxy floor paints are very different to the coating used in vehicle restoration, and I certainly wouldn't use a cheap floor paint to coat my car underside with.

Epoxy products are designed with many parameters, e.g. Toughness, water resistance, ability to bond to bare metal, ability to soak in and bond better on more porous surfaces, wear resistance, flow characteristics, cost, UV resistance, chemical resistance, etc etc.


I take onboard what you are saying. I think it's a question of degree. Almost any epoxy will outperform off the shelf air drying products. Along with a friend, I used the cheapest high zinc epoxy primer and the cheapest epoxy black colour coat I could source in the UK on a Triumph Spitfire chassis 11 years ago. I think 5 litres of each including the activator was £80 delivered and we didn't use it all. 32,000 km later of all year use, after an underbody jet wash prior to refresh of the waxoyl, it looks exactly as it did when we completed the project bar a small abraded patch in the engine bay. I'm certainly not worried about adhesion after foolishly not wearing a shower cap over my hair the first time I used it! The stuff sticks to anything and everything. We just used the cheapest disposable brushes and foam rollers (these didn't seem to melt) at the time, brushing into the nooks and crannies and then rollering over the flat sections and the finish is really very nice, very even, just a very light texture - 2 coats of each done with a weekend between each coat. I remember these came with thinner but we didn't need to use it. We mixed small batches using cheap, stainless measuring cups (US style literally calibrated in cups) and worked as quickly as possible,

I dunno, maybe we were lucky and this is not typical but I was blown away by how good it was and the cost was peanuts. Actually cheaper than basic spray cans.

I plan to do the same under my current car, the only consession being where it is exposed to sunlight, I'll give it a top coat of something like Simoniz tough black. Underneath with Dinitrol, I'm not worried.
 
Busy day yesterday, second head stripped cleaned and valves lapped in before fitting.
Then cloyes timing chain fitted along with cleaned up timing cover with front seal conversion and oil pump packed with vasoline.
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Hi stue
Have you fitted a standard cam or upgrade one?
Love watching your videos keep all the good work up.
Paul
Fitted a standard cam, was going to fit a 3.9 cam from rimmers but was out of stock so got a standard one from Geoff at winns
 
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