Engine all back together, with new chains and tensioners. I have used the big white book and followed the process of pegging the crank and cam and refitting the can chain wheel using the vernier on the top wheel.
i have turned the engine over a few revolutions and it is all free as would be...
Looking at the rounded ends on the cam wheel lock nuts, it has been off before. Also the majority of tappet clearances were around 20 thou, which would not have helped performance.
Still, I now have the opportunity to put all that right.
when I mic’d the shims, the smallest was 400 thou.
How can that happen?
if the cam and crank are pegged the top and bottom chain drive wheels are fixed.
is there a position that the middle chain wheel needs to be in?
i know the auxiliary drive shaft is splined and at some point must have a relationship with the distributor drive dog, but in...
Yes I was turning the engine in the right direction
the car has not run since I had it, or for the past 26 years.
no piston damage and no valve damage.
it will be interesting to see how it pans out after the rebuild.
i will be fitting new chains and potential the middle chain wheel.
Sorry to jump on this thread, but I too am in the process of rebuilding my TC engine. However, when removing the cam, locked in position with no.1 exhaust valve fully open, the EP Mark was some 35mm away from the pointer.
there was no way this lined up.
any views please?
i was turning the...
Thank you for your rapid response. I have the full original manual, and as look would have it, I have just ordered the cd a few days ago.
I will have a read through the manual.
Google it is then for the bearings etc.
have a great weekend, and stay safe
I have finally removed my engine from my 1970 2000TC.
i will be stripping it completely, and examining all aspects of the unit.
as such, the cam and crank locking positions will be lost.
is there a definitive “ start from scratch” reassembly document. I believe I am comfortable in which way I...
I cannot find the actual ad, but the website is Speedshack.co.uk
contact no. Is 01895 449066
email is firstname.lastname@example.org
i noted they were around £60 for a set of 20.
i also noted the nuts were 7/16” UNF and 0.48” long.
hope this helps
I spotted an ad for the correct nuts that in theory will fit series 1&11 of the 14” SD1 types, and also the 15” off the VDP.
The seller is in London, and the description sounds like he knows his stuff.
I will dig it out and post it here.
I have sourced a set of 15” alloys and now need the appropriate wheel nuts. Does anyone have the specific details of the sizes?
length, outside diameter, do they have a washer fitted?
thanks in anticipation
just checked out that site for wheel nuts. Impressive.
i know the thread size will be 7/16, but are the nuts flat or ball taper?
Also how long do they need to be?
if anyone has the details to hand it will save a lot of digging and measuring.
thanks in anticipation
Quattro and Chrisw ,
really appreciate your replies.
quattro, where did you get the 7/16 wheel nuts from to suit the alloys ?
Chrisw those are the alloys I really wanted. They are far harder ro come by now. A local wheel specialist here in Swansea Has quoted circa £400 to refurb the wheels...
Thank you for the update Phil.
i shall bare this in mind when I start the filling process.
at present I am still applying the feeding oil every 48 hours.
i think I will keep feeding them until the tin is empty, which won’t be long.