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I've been waiting for an update on this....

I wouldn't.......

"Our Company » E.P Services" Our Company » E.P Services If you can't get NOS, the above company will overhaul yours with a very quick turnaround.

:thumb:

See the very last thing I said in post #7.

Might have been better to leave it alone and live with the ignition light coming on at idle. I think all the problems you are experiencing now have been caused by the work you've just had done.

That's fair comment, I just wanted to suggest the idea before you got the whole thing back together.....

If it were me I'd fit a steel cam gear.

S &G Walker are no more. I think a bearing supplier is your best option.

In this case the WM is correct. I think a lot of confusion arises because people think that the RHS of the engine is as viewed looking at the engine from the front, but it isn't. RHS and LHS are always as viewed from the driver's seat.

Just the water jackets

I'd fit the tin gasket. Coat around the water jackets on both sides with hylomar blue gel.

Sounds like you have a very low idle speed, and stationary in gear reduces the engine speed just enough to put the ignition light on. I'd say the lower the idle speed the better, and live with the ignition light coming on, but if you can't then just tweak the idle speed upwards a bit and see if...

Oh no, more shed envy to put my blood pressure up........

I was taught to lightly grease the inner cable, all apart from the top few inches, to stop the grease working it's way up into the head. I always cured windscreen wiper Speedos this way. I've always assumed this was normal practice.

I'd be happy with that.

The earliest manifolds were only different because they had provision for the AED pipework. If you don't have an AED you don't need to worry about that, and if you have auto downpipes any auto manifold will fit, any they are the same part for both sides.

Yep, that'll work. It's just a tiny flange probably just over an inch long. Fold it flat to get the matrix out, fold it back up 90 degrees once the new matrix is in.

Any slack in the chain will cause the timing to vary, and the more slack there is the worse it will be.

Check the lobes for wear, and to save time, start at the back, as they wear first.

The OHC engines used taper seat plugs IIRC, which were always hard to get out, but the heads used to crack between the water jacket and the plug hole, rusting the plugs in there, and that was normally the rearmost plug, so you had no chance of getting those out.

Front seats are easy to remove if you leave the runners in place.

Stock 9.75 engines are SD1 Vitesse, so quite a rare and sought after short motor.

Weak mixture and/or carbs out of balance.

Three bullet connectors down by the steering box (RHD).