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I have a two- speed solution. The lower speed is effectively 80W - I've NEVER heard the higher speed engage unless I force it to - that's about 150W. So the answer is you can quite definitely cool a P6 V8 with 80W of fan even in 35+ degree heat. Calculate the area of 2x11" fans minus the...

I'd imagine there'd be people biting your hand off for that. However, you're a new member selling something so people might consider it a scam.

Use the GM HEI module, you can use the Lumenition to trigger this I believe - I use the later, Lucas distributor from the SD1. Genuine ones almost never fail. Mount it remotely somewhere cooler (near coil).

Surely you don't need a fan at all at 70mph? No forced cooling is going to push more air through the radiator.

Already covered this: My cooling project Basically use a large fan and sweep the most area of the rad and use a two speed switch, the neatest (and cheapest) solution is indeed to mod the rad with a M22 boss for standard switches. You only need about 80W of power to cool the engine in "normal"...

Tiny, low pressure turbo a la Saab? I don't think the block is strong enough for more but with a 2200 you should be able to get V8 plus performance.

No. Any stuck on crap leave it where it is.

@sdibbers - take my money!

Wow. Better than original. If I was to suggest one thing. I would have removed the original tar/bitumen-based vibration control pads and replaced them with modern butyl ones. Why? Many of them would have dried out and they only work when stuck to the panel - not that they are necessarily...

I have never heard any RV8 described as "peaky" before. Even in TVR.

Heads, stage II ish cam, improved breathing and Kp needles is worth 25-30 bhp when set up on a rolling road on a 10.5:1 motor. I have no idea with alternative carbs. You'll get nowhere before you start with the 8.13:1 engine unless you are turboing it. The 9.75 I reckon 165 on a good day...

Mustard yellow? I believe you mean the magisterial beauty of Almond. (or come to think of it on a 76 it might be Tumeric)

It MIGHT not be a worry ATF is leaking because if not used in a month or two the torque converter drains back into the sump and leaks out. Drain the old fluid anyway and clean up the underside and refill.

I'd probably go good secondhand. These actually don't seem to wear much. Mine were on 150k miles and actually turned out to be OK. I keep it as a spare.

These modded parts give me the heebie jeebies. I'm sure they're more than strong enough but I found the real macoy when I replaced mine. BTW the cut and sleeve is exactly what JR Wadhams does

Or epoxy. On aluminum you can only use epoxy. Stay away from the zinc chromate.

Burmann I believe. I found a place in the UK to do it, a commercial vehicle specialist. It's closely related to the first Range Rover Box with a unique casing.

Just a word to all with PAS issues. If the shaft is out of spec or corroded, then you can't simply can't rebuild the box with new seals. It needs to be machined and chromed to the correct diameter. Hats off if you can do that at home.

Yes, many years back I remember taking a seat apart. I actually repaired the inner with stretch denim from some old trousers.... The center section is definitely glued and the covers are tensioned on the outside, back and between the inner and outer cushion. I'm guessing that's why it looks...

It's a shame they can't make those covers maybe 2% undersized. That would help the look a lot. I think the foam will have compressed over time.

BW35? I thought all SD1s got the BW 65 or the far superior GM180.

Chassis E finally shows the standard RVC tacho (34). The white/black is the signal wire to the negative side of the coil. White is +12V but it powers only the tacho it doesn't feed the ignition circuit. i.e. it is wired in parallel rather than series. It would not affect the ignition circuit...

DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible if your car catches fire.... Probably because you have no power to the coil. The RVI old tacho was wired in series with it. The RVI will have a white wire which is +12V ignition and a white/yellow wire to the coil via the ballast. Ignoring any illuminator...

Tell me about it - almost the entire steering and suspension had to be replaced before my car drove properly, the PAS box will be the THIRD one this car has and the idler was replaced with a new one. It's not a question of the odd ball joint very often.

You have the right coil. 1.5ohm (ish).