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I thought it was so you could turn it to get the big gap at the bottom, so when you tipped the engine back to remove the gearbox, it didn't take a chunk out of the radiator. I may have made that up :hmm:

Can you put the asking price on and is the car in South London?

Not sure of their name, but they are 14" SD1 alloys. It's best to get the SD1 studs, nuts and grease caps if you can. Studs, and SD1 nuts are M12 1.5 Richard

It's sitting in petrol so even the tiniest perforation can, over time, allow petrol in. If you leave it out for the same period of time, it will come out. Welcome to the forum BTW :)

That'll do it :)

You need to check that the pipe coming out of the tower is clear, all the way through to the inside of the tower, not just the hose.

There's MH Annable but they're about an hour away in Derby.

Oh dear, that doesn't look like a whole load of fun. I have a 4L cross bolted engine but it uses an SD1 front cover and oil pump so it just fits the same as the 3.5. Best of luck stripping it down :)

Try cleaning your fuses first, and make sure they're 32mm ones and not 30mm.

Up should be all four, same as pull back (Headlamp flash). The outer lamps have two filaments, one for main beam, one for dip. Down should be dipped beams - outer only.

How do you manage to get the inners on without the outers?

I'm running the Rover Hotwire system run by megasquirt, but it's not sequential, it's batchfired. It's certainly more adjustable than a four barrel, and produces a better tune than my old Weber, but it's really complicated to do and takes a whole heap of learning.

I have found a picture of mine when I first got it, I have rewired that spade since then :) If you're still using a ballasted coil, I am sure you will be able to wire it into the black cable already on there, or from the 6RA

IIRC there are only two wires on mine, big one from the battery and one with a spade from the wing relay

The LT77 is a bit fussy about its oil, what are you using in it?

I used the Offenhauser dual port with a weber 500. It was on the car when I bought it, but apparently the dual port bit means it is basically two manifolds one on top of the other. This keeps the air speed up and stops the fuel condensing, especially on a small engine like the 3,500. I think...

Sorry Leonard, we will need some photos of your car, and a price you want, we don't do offers.

Have you checked the timing mark is correct, i.e. the marked TDC is actually TDC. I have seen V8s showing TDC at 8 - 10 degrees out. This is how I did it - Sparky's winter/spring/summer/autumn work Have you checked the vacuum unit on the dizzy ( it turns the plate, and there is a vacuum from...

I've had a few of these diffs out, and have never seen the bolts pointing downwards. When I first removed it during the rebuild, I was very happy they pointed upwards as the nut was well protected against rust, up inside the crossmember. I'm fairly confident that the WSM has them upwards.

https://www.classicroverforum.net/index.php?threads/et-phone-home.25272/post-207827

It is 40 on the V8s, not 100% sure on the narrower wheels though. Minilites for the P6 are 30, which in my mind affects the steering, but that may be just me.

I bought a cheap one from a local supplier and it was awful, allowing the car to overheat if in traffic on a hot day. I then bought a Revotec fan of the same size (14" I think) and it works perfectly, even on the hottest of days, in the longest of queues. I have wired into the Aux side of the...

I got mine from fleabay, just the rubber bit and messed around until I got them to fit my wiper arms.

I'm pretty certain that I undid the engine mounts and lifted the motor an inch or so to get better access to the bolts across the front crossmember.

Link here: - https://www.classicroverforum.net/index.php?threads/boot-interior.45307/post-405633