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Thanks for that Harvey, I'll stop worrying about it then! Rear servo bolts.....might need some handholding there? My sump plug is goosed, so if you have one I can buy I would be very grateful

Hi all, after removing the gearbox sump to replace the leaky gasket I discovered a loose pipe in the pan - hopefully pics attached. I don't think it came off when removing the sump. It's obvious where the pipe lives and having offered it up it is staying in place but I'm obviously concerned it...

Hi all, I've recently bought a '72 V8 that's been off the road for over 10 years and have a couple of electrical niggles: - The o/s sidelight is not working despite the bulb and earth being fine. I've checked the fusebox and both red and black wires are getting 12v. On dismantling the light...

I have a full set of mismatched wings in very average condition - will need a respray etc. Keen to get rid of them so they can be had at a nominal price. I'm in Aberdeenshire. 07818038455. Thanks

Thanks Demetris. I have looked at replacing this before. when my middle box first started to blow I was going to try and put together a single silencer affair that replaced the whole rear section. I do worry about doing a proper job as the work would be partially visible!

The last of the two big boxes, or the slimmer profile one under the boot floor?

Hi Dave, thanks for that. Yes I do mean the box near the diff. I'll see if I can find one then. Out of interest why is it preferable to remove the front box over the middle? I'm not sure I could bring myself to remove a healthy box but perhaps I could be convinced for the rasp you mention!

The middle can of my 3 can exhaust is in pretty poor condition. Is it a good or a bad idea to replace this with a straight-through pipe? I've heard the standard setup is quite restrictive but I won't want to the car to sound antisocial or else just crap. Am I right say that because a. Rover...

Just to let you all know that all noises have stopped completely! Testrider you appear to have been correct! or let's hope so. Thank you all for the input :)

Hi thank you for all the replies. I sincerely hope it is something as straightforward as a stone Testrider! As the o/s doesn't seem to be binding I had ruled out the brakes as a culprit. Certainly there are no scores on the disc. i'll try and locate the noise with a screwdriver and get the car...

There is notchiness on one side. I took the wheels off and had the engine turning them. Hell of a noise for a UJ or a bearing. I've made a video and the noise is clear http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s2PWraFRCKs

arms elbows and hubs seem OK. With the n/s wheel jacked up I can hear the noise if I rotate the wheel. It sounds like it's coming from the diff but there are no such noises if just the o/s wheel is rotated. I guess this eliminates the diff as the culprit thankfully. The UJs are free of play and...

That would be my Rover. It's had 2 more owners since the last post. It ran like a dog when I got it but I've reshimmed and it's running well.

This is my old girl. I had a change of heart and removed the ad

forgot to mention that I have removed the access panels in the boot and the bushes are fine

The symptoms have now got worse and there's a near-constant creak with a clonk when pulling off. There is also now what sounds like an intermittent rubbing when braking. The rear pads have meat on them and are not binding. Could wheel bearings give off noises like these? I tried jacking her up...

I'll clear out the boot so there's room for the diff when it falls off!

Thanks for that folks. The carrier at the diff appears fine - bolts intact and tight. Only had chance to have a quick look for the access panels you mention Pat but they weren't immediately obvious. The boot lining extends to this area but is glued down so I'll take that up and report back with...

I guess it's a diff *the diff!

My 2000TC has developed a clonk a creaking and a clang from I think the n/s rear but only when pulling off, sometimes when braking, and most notably when turning. I'm guessing it's a UJ or two but what's the best process of identifying the culprit? If it isn't a UJ I guess it's a diff and I've...

Sorry I meant in terms of ease of returning to stock, or having that option as a prospective buyer. Tapping into the radiator is a permanent fixture, whereas a fan, wiring etc can be easily removed. I've met car aficionados that would look on it unfavourably

I agree it can be trouble if not done properly, but it needn't be a bodge. Tapping into the rad is very neat but from an originality perspective not everyone would appreciate it if you come to sell the car. Another option is a switch built in to a small section of ali pipe that is plumbed in to...

In my experience the simplest arrangement is a relayed thermo capillary switch located in the top rad hose. A kit can be bought very cheaply, but I would be wary of mounting the switch in the rad's fins as some kits advise. Much better to place in the hose and seal with a latex sleeve, which is...

forgot to add I do have elec ignition but it has been working fine with this