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True, but this thread obviously has a lot of fans, I suppose you could say it has its own fan club.

He's a top chap to sell to as well.

That wasn't the case with the V8.

A waste of time when you have to pay £12-50 a day to drive them because of the ULEZ. My lovely two owner Rover 620 GSi is fridges now because of that.

Lots of oddball (to UK eyes) combinations in SA, usually big engines in small cars, 2•6 litre E series six pots in marinas spring to mind, (I bet they handled well....), and was it a Perana, a Capri with a V8? Plus all the aforementioned P100s.

Remove the alternator complete with its mounting bracket.

I've replaced shells in worse condition than those to help bump up low oil pressure and never had any problems afterwards, so if they all come out in a similar condition I'd just replace them with new.

Make sure that the hose from the top of the rad to the top of the inlet manifold is clear. The pipe that goes into the manifold is prone to blockage, causing the engine to run hot, which can cause vaporisation.

I like a P100. A mate of mine has a Mk3 bakkie with a 2•8 V6 and auto box, and years back I worked with a bloke who had a p100S fitted with a rover v8

No, unless the cable is holding the chokes on, which is a different fault.

Not necessarily. You need to check the switch on the cable behind the centre console and make sure that it's fitted correctly and working as a first stop, and check that the otter switch is only earthing out when the engine is up to temperature. If you twist the choke knob and the light goes out...

Faulty choke cable switch, or otter switch.

Plenty of tomato sauce and you'll get through your humble pie no problem.

They will. You just need decent press plates and a good press. Supposedly they can't be reused.

That's it. That one is made to the early spec, later ones don't have the four grooves shown on one end. Those grooves were supposed to be against the bearing.

It only needs one bolt to drop out for the plate to drop down on that side. Every single nut and bolt should be checked for tightness before and after each journey. (BTW, it's not OCD, it's CDO, the letters should always be in alphabetical order....);)

But that won't do anything to stop the diff plate dropping down, all it might do is stop the bolt going through the screen of the bloke driving behind you.

AFAIK all the diff output shafts are the same, they are all made of lead and plasticine.

There are two cutouts in the front crossmember that allow socket access the the front two sump bolts.

OK, that rules out the problem that I was considering.

Two questions, firstly, is the 18ACR alternator a replacement for an 11AC, and was the ignition switch new or used?

The earth for the starter relay is piggybacked on to the earth for the low brake warning light switch on the reservoir.

Why do you want to connect direct to the battery? There are good 12v supplies and earths under the bonnet.

Doncha love predictive text.

What can happen is a failure of the timing case gasket around the oil gallery from the sump, if this happens it can draw air into the gallery and it won't prime.