0-60

1396midget

Well-Known Member
8)

According to aDyno smartphone app, mine apparently does it in 10.53 seconds.

You have to fill in lots of things that I took slight (informed) guesses at, such as pitch under acceleration and frontal area, rolling resistance and transmission drain.

Wigglypedia says 10.5 for a 3500.
 
Carbs were not opening fully. Sorted that, now it's down to 9.57. Not too shabby, still has a slight high rpm misfire.
 
That's a second quicker than the figure rover gave! Wonder if your's isnt as standard engine wise as it looks?

Rich
 
I haven't timed mine officially but it's definitely sub 10 seconds.
Only engine mods so far are the mallory dual point and removal of the engine driven fan..
Time will tell, quite literally, what difference a freer breathing set up will make :D
Jim
 
mallory distributor, open filters, no electric fan, only one silencer and SD1 heads, KK needles. Oh, and a +20 overbore

Need to fix the misfire and might get even better.
 
Very similar to pae then. Maybe I should give it a go. I'm on kp rather than kk electronic dizzy vitesse heads and open filters :)
 
:)

the app I used is called "aDyno" (it's free)

the numbers I fed it with are

3 degrees per 1G pitch

5 degrees per 1G roll

2700 lbs

154 lbs additional weight

14% drivetrain loss (probably a bit low?)

0.016% rolling resistance

0.36 drag coeficcient

1.85 m^2 frontal area (guesstimate)

the dynometer data it asks for I've left as standard for some other car, it only uses it to work out power in a suspicious way. Though I suppose it is possible to work out power if all those things are correct. it currently thinks I have 34 bhp.

for the 0-60 it only uses the pitch thing. Which is also a guess. :oops:

Any advance on those guessitmate numbers?

I had the smartphone bluetacked under the dash rail, it likes to be at about 30 degrees off vertical.

Give it a go, it would be interesting to have some comparison, even if the numbers are made up.
 
i've downloaded it. will have a go in the next day or 3 maybe. I think being an auto the transmission loss is large. i.e. 155-165 at the engine (which is what we should have) will give you around 90-100bhp at the wheels.

Rich
 
rockdemon wrote,...
I think being an auto the transmission loss is large. i.e. 155-165 at the engine (which is what we should have) will give you around 90-100bhp at the wheels.

Hi Rich,

The 10.5 : 1 engines had a net power figure of around 153 HP. This figure is measured at the flywheel with all ancillaries attached to the engine, so it reperesents what a typical Rover on the road will see. The figure includes power steering loss but not air conditioning.

My original 10.5 : 1 3.5 engine delivered 69kW (92HP) at the wheels on a dyno in 2007. With a three speed transmission, the test is always undertaken in second gear. Some years earlier I do recall going out and timing the 0 - 60 with the help of a friend and fellow Rover owner. From memory, mine was around 12 seconds which seemed disappointing at the time, but my Rover always felt quicker to me.

I have never timed my Rover with the 4.6 nor have I pushed it hard all the way to 60, but I do know with over 50% more power and torque that the big engine is considerably quicker.

Ron.
 
The 10.5 : 1 engines had a net power figure of around 153 HP

I'm allowing the 10 bhp extra for the SD1 heads + filters, based on the difference in figures my SU needle app shows for the different engines.

Rich
 
and no power steering in my case. That's a huge loss from the gearbox though, around 30%. Is it really that bad? yikes. Time for the LT77. The man on the rolling road when I took my A series midget reckoned about 15% loss through the old BMC ribcase 'box. Does that mean then that a P6 with manual is 10-15% quicker as there's 10-15% more bhp at the wheels?
 
1396midget wrote,...
Does that mean then that a P6 with manual is 10-15% quicker as there's 10-15% more bhp at the wheels?

The manual gearbox does present less overall transmission loss, so with all other variables being equal, the car will accelerate more quickly. The spacing of the ratios plays an important part in maintaining acceleration as does the ability of the driver. A standard automatic transmission will always possess greater losses than if it had been built to shift much more quickly.

Ron.
 
An auto driven correctly won't be much slower than a manual, particularly in the case of the P6B. Drive the auto manually through 1, 2, D and by the time you take into account the time lost making the changes with the manual box there won't be much in it at all. The same applies when comparing how long each will last when doing so.....
 
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