10 year old antifreeze, what to expect??

Anders

New Member
Hey all,

New to the forum, even though I’ve been reading quite a bit lately from the shadows! :) Now finally a proper member, I hope you could help me shine some light on a 1975 Rover P6B undergoing a what seems to be the beginning of a rather full-blown restoration.
The car has been standing for 10 years in my dad’s cold garage with a gearbox conversion that stranded because of his illness. It’s done about 200 000 km, had a cam change to a street ”stage 1” (very drivable, but with a noticeable surge at 3500rpm, don’t remember the model number) Crane cam along with a Holley 390 and Offenhauser dual port inlet manifold, and hydraulic SD1 valve lifters. These modifications were all done at around 120 000 km, circa 20 years ago. Oil changes have been made with Castrol 20-50 every year or every 7000-8000km, and it’s been treated well mechanically, run carefully before thoroughly warm etc.
During the 10 years stranded in the garage, it’s been started up every 3 months, run properly warm, had oil changes done something like every other year, but.. here’s my big concern, only been topped up with antifreeze when needed, rather than flushing the system completely and replacing. Half a year ago, just after taking the car over after my dad passed, it had been standing slightly longer without start-up, and me and a friend had real difficulties starting it up even with starter help spray, admittedly in swedish mid winter. We did find annoyingly much humidity in the distributor for one so maybe no real reason for worry there tbh. It was given fresh clean fuel bypassing the petrol filter though.

Anyway, my questions to you are:

1. How do I go about with potential corrosion damage from the aging antifreeze? How far can it have gone corrosion wise, could it be so bad the the block simply is scrap? I have no experience in this kind of troubleshooting. If I get proper and consistent comp (which is on the list to do) on and between all cylinders, manage to build up proper pressure through the cooling channels when flushing it, should I still worry for cracks, or are people’s concerns on these V8:s rather about channels getting blocked by loose corroded flakes causing uneven cooling? There’s no white smoke or anything, it’s more if someone has experience in what actually could happen, like what are the margins here.. My thought, since it's been standing for all these years, was to lift the heads, exchange head gaskets, check the state of the combustion chambers and also valve play, but not go full engine restoration..

The engine ran beautifully when it was put up for gearbox conversion, with super steady oil pressure, and properly keen on revving. It will come out in any case in order to clean the engine and the bay, so the question is really how far to go on this..

2. I’m leaning towards an electronic ignition system since it seems rather hassle free, and in order to cancel out as many factors as possible determining the state of the engine, have read great stuff about Aldon’s, Powerspark are temptingly cheap, Lumenition is the one to go for at RimmerBros.. just curious on your opinions here!

Thankful for any response on this, sorry for lengthy msg!!

Thanks!

/anders
 
I wouldn't worry too much, as long as there was some antifreeze in there, and it looks ok. If you take the radiator hoses off, what do the pump intake and thermostat housing look like? If massively white and fluffy you might have an issue, but should be ok otherwise.

My car was stood for ten years when i bought it, hadn't been started or anything. I flushed everything through with a hose, and descaled it with some dishwasher cleaner. My radiator was pretty knackered due to corrosion, but gave me a year of use before I replaced it with a refurbed one. The engine itself was/is fine and is my daily!

As for the top end work, I'd agree that a compression test might be in order. If all ok I wouldn't bother taking the heads off until you have had a chance to run it about a bit and see what its like. If you get some iffy results then whip the heads off and have a look. Hows the rocker gear look? shiny and brown or covered in black "Cornflakes"?. Again, if it looks good (and it sounds like it should with the regular oil changes) i wouldn't do anything until you've run it a little.
 
Hi Quagmire,

Thanks a lot for your reply, sorry for responding late. This really calmed me down I have to say, the engine bay looks quite greasy on the outside, and quite a few of the hoses seem to have done their part so properly cleaning it up and replacing those needs doing no matter what. But for the rest focusing on getting the ignition parts in order and evaluate after that seems honest and a bit more straight forward!

May I ask what colour of antifreeze you're running on?

Cheers, Anders
 
Have a look on the thread "Antifreeze". That´s what I wrote there, maybe it will help :
I would not rely on the colour..
Pete is right, as most of the pink-coloured antifreeze is not based on silicates, but it´s not correct, that classic cars should not be filled with modern type antifreeze.
First, do you know, what antifreeze is in your car already ? If not, you should drain the system. You can mix certain standards, but if you do not know, what´s in your car...
Antifreeze silicate based is normally G11 or G48. Next step was G12, without silicates. G12 cannot be mixed with G11 or G48, that can raise up serious problems.
Next step was G12+, again without silicates, but G12+ can be mixed with G11/G48. Next step G12++ and now G13, can be mixed also, they are simply improved formulas
for modern motors but also applicable for classic motors.
If you are not sure, flush your system,fill in G11 or G48 OR G12+/++.
In the meantime, there are "classic" series for antifreeze available, which is simply a marketing effort. Glysantin Classic is Glysantin G48 but price is plus 50%.
And the other interesting question is, use distilled or undistilled water. This would fill another thread :confused:
 
I wouldn't worry too much, as long as there was some antifreeze in there, and it looks ok. If you take the radiator hoses off, what do the pump intake and thermostat housing look like? If massively white and fluffy you might have an issue, but should be ok otherwise.

My car was stood for ten years when i bought it, hadn't been started or anything. I flushed everything through with a hose, and descaled it with some dishwasher cleaner. My radiator was pretty knackered due to corrosion, but gave me a year of use before I replaced it with a refurbed one. The engine itself was/is fine and is my daily!

As for the top end work, I'd agree that a compression test might be in order. If all ok I wouldn't bother taking the heads off until you have had a chance to run it about a bit and see what its like. If you get some iffy results then whip the heads off and have a look. Hows the rocker gear look? shiny and brown or covered in black "Cornflakes"?. Again, if it looks good (and it sounds like it should with the regular oil changes) i wouldn't do anything until you've run it a little.

I was intrigued by this comment ( I flushed everything through with a hose, and descaled it with some dishwasher cleaner ) Can and does dishwasher cleaner do a good job on car radiators.
There are all sorts of technically efficient radiator flushes out there and at a premium price too.
It would be nice to discover something as mundane as dishwasher cleaner that does the same job and a third of the price?

Peter
 
Ethylene Glycol is the correct anti freeze for a Rover. Mix it 50 : 50 with distilled water for the best result.
 
Cleaning the system with citric acid is a popular method. Even Mercedes is selling the stuff officially to decalcify coolant systems. As it works very good, it can happen, that almost dead radiators are really dead, because the calc which closed a small hole, is gone.
 
if you leave a tooth in "Coke" over night , it dissolves, has anyone tried "Coke " as a cleaning agent ?
Dishwasher cleaner and Coke may be the ultimate cleaner, but you might end up needing new core plugs ? :eek:
 
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