1964 French "Sharks Tooth" 2000

Wow, never seen that happen on a roller. I’d say there’s a bigger problem if the balls had escaped. Maybe look for a replacement LHD steering box? This isn’t something you want to fix by trial and error.
 
I also think that the best approach would be to replace completely the steering box, since it is such a critical steering part.
As to why this happened, perhaps it was run dry for years?
Anyway, as far as i know, 2000 cylinder steering boxes are the same, apart from the later 2200 cars. For instance it is exactly the same with my 1970 TC. Also i think that the only difference between RHD and LHD is the bottom arm. So, if you cannot locate a complete LHD box, perhaps you can swap your bottom arm with the one out of a RHD box. But please verify this last information first before buying something, because i am not 100% sure on this.
 
Marc78
If you acquire another box I would be very interested in having the remains of your old one.

Thanks Mark
 
I found two plugs to drain the sump....
The left one, I was able to remove and nice old black oil poured out in reasonable quantity. The right one i.e. on the same side as the clutch slave cylinder) which according to owner's manual is the only one mentioned for oil change purpose, I could not take out the plug as was seriously damaged. see pics.
So my fourth question may sound quite basic but is for me an intrigue : why two sump plugs??
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I found two plugs to drain the sump....
why two sump plugs??

Because it's a Rover. They liked doing things like that.....

It could be to give a choice when draining the oil if the car isn't on level ground, but if that were the case, then it would need two dipsticks for the refill.
 
And now for question N°5, it is about the air filter box : it looks like it's been shaken to a point where it needed some welding at some point in time...
The casing feels like a little wobbly and I suspect air could enter on the outer side of the metal casing. I guess this would prevent from the correct air pressure and suction into the carburettor. Is there not also a gasket required to make the casing "air tight' from the outside?
Should I try to source a new/used casing to bolt on the carburetor?

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Early cars have different sumps than the later ones.. such as the breather on the side of the sump.

I've got a spare air filter - both pieces - if you'd like it?
 
Hello! Not sure to understand the latter part of your answer... why need 2 dipsticks?

Because if the engine isn't level then you need a dipstick on the same side as the side you drain from, and that will show a lower level (compared to the horizontal) than the dipstick on the other side.
 
Early cars have different sumps than the later ones.. such as the breather on the side of the sump.

I've got a spare air filter - both pieces - if you'd like it?

Hello Chrisw, Thanks very much for the proposal. I will take the filter out, take more pictures and take it from there...
 
Sump drain plugs are typically damaged from people who overtighten them using every unsuitable tool available instead of the correct ring spanner or socket, and then trying to remove them using every unsuitable tool available instead of the correct ring spanner or socket. However they are still available new.
The second plug is rather convenient to install an oil temperature sender unit, if anyone wishes so.
 
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