1964 French "Sharks Tooth" 2000

The second plug is rather convenient to install an oil temperature sender unit, if anyone wishes so.

Or maybe, since they had a blanking plug in the sideplate to fit a block heater, maybe the extra plug was for an oil heater as well. It gets really cold some places.
 
Yesterday was a mishap :
Travelled all the way from home to my garage where the P6 is sheltered with a key target in mind for the day : start that engine...
First I was able to ascertain the polarity thanks to all good comments received here. So it is wired as negative earth with CB contact on the coil connected to distributor. Actually not at all easy to follow as the wires from the coil are soon rejoining the wiring loom. Luckily, the CB wire is white with a black stripe whereas the SW wire is white only.
And then, I could not find the ignition keys....:rolleyes: left at home...

So I started to remove the steering box and got stuck as unable to lift it off : the ball joints are stuck and had no bronze or copper hammer to bang it off....
 
Steering box unbolted
157414390742913.jpg

Then the ball joints are stuck
157414398694453.jpg

157414441474094.jpg

Replacement Box ready but first remove the one in place…
157414414120657.jpg

Found this loose in the engine compartment beneath the Steeering Box, I suppose it’s a forgotten fixing bracket of some kind, looks like an adjustment screw, any ideas ?
157414429598580.jpg
 
Found this loose in the engine compartment beneath the Steeering Box, I suppose it’s a forgotten fixing bracket of some kind, looks like an adjustment screw, any ideas ?

This is a stop bolt for the end of steering lock. Are you sure it was loose and not bolted with the steering box? If it was indeed loose, then probably someone else was there before you.
 
Any chance of a picture across the back of the engine bay, now that you've removed the steering box? Looking for the link between the box and the opposite side..
 
This is a stop bolt for the end of steering lock. Are you sure it was loose and not bolted with the steering box? If it was indeed loose, then probably someone else was there before you.
I definitely need to procure a workshop manual and a parts manual.... I see most manuals for sale on internet are for 66 and later. Is it worth it or should I absolutely strive for "early models" manuals?
 
Any chance of a picture across the back of the engine bay, now that you've removed the steering box? Looking for the link between the box and the opposite side..
Not yet removed alas.... I wonder if I have to remove this main nut on the box in place to ease the removal from the ball joints
157419038126677.jpg
 
I don't think you need to take the two pronged arm off the underside of the box. Not even sure you could with it in place. I think you need a ball joint splitting tool, something like this;
Car-Tie-Rod-End-Puller-Ball-Joint-Separator-Removers-Ball-Head-Extractor-Auto-professional-repair-tool.jpg

I'm not recommending this specific tool, it is just a pic off the web of one similar to the one I used. I borrowed mine from a pal at a pro garage, it was very similar. There isn't room to swing a hammer at a fork type tool, or even to fit a hinged tool. If I remember rightly, you need to turn the steering first one way, then the other, to get the tool on each of the two ball joints. You might need to reattach the steering box to the base unit to make turning the steering easier. I seem to remember a fair amount of cursing was involved, and that the tool kept wanting to tilt and slip off the top of the ball joint, and damage the thread. Good luck.
 
I definitely need to procure a workshop manual and a parts manual.... I see most manuals for sale on internet are for 66 and later. Is it worth it or should I absolutely strive for "early models" manuals?

Depends what you want.. I probably have spares of the 63 manuals, if you want?
 
Indeed, you need a copy of the factory manual. Usually later ones tend to cover earlier cars too, and sometimes can be useful for information on improvements etc. But on the other hand i understand that it would be a nice touch to have a manual that goes along with the age of the car.
As MrTask says above, there is no point trying to take the bottom arm off the steering box, with the box still in the car. It is difficult enough with the box on the bench!
You definitely need a decent ball joint splitter.
The one in the attached photo does look similar with the proper Rover tool.
1574202659601.png
 
Depends what you want.. I probably have spares of the 63 manuals, if you want?
Hi Chris
Thanks for the proposal. Would you like to let me know the details on a PM? (and also keen on the airbox...)
 
Last edited:
Hello, some news in the new year :

1. steering box and ball joints : managed to split the ball joints at both ends but the other one is definitely not accessible with the fork model (mr task is right!!). I wonder if there is chance to get away with this ball joint by unscrewing the linkage next to it.
I will post pics shortly.

2. Starting the engine : hemmm... finally decided to wire to the battery on negative earth basis since the CB on coil is connected to the distributor. I am not feeling good on this one since the car is/was positive earth by design and the clamps are clearly for positive earth....
Never mind, The connection is what matters, so off I go, I turn the ignition key on and.......IGN light on the dashboard..... and.........


Nothing happens, not even the typical sound of the coil of the starter motor moving.....

I can think of 3 things :
A fuse problem
Solenoid had it
cabling/wiring problem somewhere

Any thoughts there ?

Thanks in advance,

Marc
 
I would start by checking if there is power to the cable that energises the solenoid. If i remember correctly it should be a white/pink one. If there is power to this, then you need a new solenoid. At least.
If you don't have power to this, there are many possibilities, starting from the switch inside the car.
 
I've got exactly the same issue with my 2000 Auto. Last turned over about six months ago, now nothing.

I'm going to pull the starter at some point, and apply power directly.. If that works, then I'll work my way back.

The battery, lights, horn etc are all fine, but nothing when I turn the key.
 
Why are you getting into the trouble to pull the starter out first if the solenoid doesn't click?
Also, since your car is an auto, there is the possibility that there is a problem with the inhibitor switch on the gearbox.
 
I would start by checking if there is power to the cable that energises the solenoid. If i remember correctly it should be a white/pink one. If there is power to this, then you need a new solenoid. At least.
If you don't have power to this, there are many possibilities, starting from the switch inside the car.
Hello Demetris. Yes that's what I'll do, but I need someone with me for this which I did not have yesterday :( I was actually thinking of testing power on the starter motor contacts, but starting with the solenoid is best.
 
Back
Top