1971 Rover P6 2000 Automatic Ebay.

PooBrownP6

New Member
I have just signed up so I could get the ball rolling on purchasing a p6. I want to get one that is sound and just needs a bit of fettling to get it nice. Im not after showroom condition and I wont be hiding it away. I want to use it as a daily driver.

I hit ebay and found a few in need of restoring but I dont have suitable storage :(. Then I found this:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1971-Rover-P6 ... 3a712dcd63

At first I almost went for the phone and was ready to go for it but then I kept staring at the details and the pictures. The car was originally in Zircon blue and whoever resprayed it did not do everything. You can make out the original colour still present on the inside boot lid, o/s middle door post and inner panel behind the front wing.. if that makes sense?

Has anyone got any info on this car? The advert states one of the registored keepers was a P6 owner's club member so I tried chucking a few things into google but came up with nothing.
 
Looks like a nice, straight car. Certainly worth a look.

I was looking at the BMW 840 that he has as well..
 
That's extremely strong money for a 2000 Auto. For that it needs to be absolutely perfect. So the chances are it isn't going to be sold in a hurry.

Go and see some poor ones first and hone your P6 assessing skills on those, then have a look at some apparent contenders. If you need a talk through, give me a pm and your phone no and I'll run you through what to look for.

Chris
 
Non standard colour has to knock the value, and I've never been a fan of wing mirrors.
Looking closer at the pictures, looks like they've sprayed over the door catches on the D post, not a good job, plus you've got to wonder what's hiding under the paint.

You could always sell the plate to somebody with a Jag :D
 
:)

Thanx for the help guys!

I have the same feelings regarding the wing mirrors, would rather have door mounted. I keep thinking why spray it? If the paint was drab and cracked then it would just need a good buffing up and then plans could be made to do a proper spray job.

I have found a brown p6 on ebay, lots of bids and the condition reflects it:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1974-ROVER-P6 ... 1e6cf63c11

Ths would fit the bill :D
 
Different end of the performance spectrum but looks a far better car
Wonder if Pilkie could check it out for you ?
 
Very in fitting with your user name :mrgreen:
My first p6 was Mexico brown beautyful when shiney :)
 
If you're serious about that Brazillia one, it's in Bristol, which means I could pop along and look it over for you?

Chris
 
Hmmm lots too think about!

If I bid on this and a bidding war starts what is the cut off point for a car like this? I have been reading up an afaik a minter will be £5000 and the owner looks like he has really looked after it.
I will need to sort out a few things aswell. It will need rear seatbelts fitting, insurance qoutes done. Also I do have one BIG problem and that is no garage to store it away safe but we do have an area around the back that cars can be parked in. I used to keep my old ford escort mk3 there and it never got touched but it is something to think about, would make me paranoid and is the one of the biggest reasons that I have not rushed out to buy a classic. I would rather let somebody else own something good and keep it safe than me having it out on the street and some vandel keys it for no reason, but if I keep thinking like that I will never own a car ive always wanted.

@chrisyork
Im hovering over the bid button as I type so I will let you know. Thanx :D
 
I find classic car insurance very very reasonable, I also keep my p6 outside and in the last 8 years have had no problems with it being damaged, I find most people stop to look at it, take a few pics and carry on with thier day :D

I would not let that put you off buying a classic in anycase thats why we have insurance in the event something happens to it :?

Need to touch some wood now :LOL: :LOL:
 
v8guy said:
Need to touch some wood now :LOL: :LOL:
I was just thinking you're tempting fate a bit there, aren't you! :D But I keep mine outside too, and never had any issues. I've got a steering wheel crook lock as a visible deterrent and some other secretive little ploys to stop it starting/moving/living/breathing/anything if somebody does fancy a pop at it!

I second the other suggestions to look at some low-priced examples. It sounds to me like you're looking for something similar to my car - clean, rust free, presentable, MOT'd and usable, but definitely not showroom. Mine had 11 months MOT and cost me less than a bag of sand in 2009. I spent a further £600 sorting out the necessities - brakes, ball joints, a small weld, radiator, bit of trim, etc (this was before the engine rebuild, which was for fun :D ), leaving me further £££'s to spend on the cosmetics. I'm not saying you should do the same, but viewing cars like these should give you an idea of what one thousand pounds' worth of P6 looks like, leaving you to assess the cost/extent of further work necessary to equal the dealers' car. You can then decide whether the dealer asking price really is a fair reflection of the value of the car he is offering for sale.... Personally, I wouldn't pay £5k for any P6, but then I like to do the work myself, so each to their own.
2000s and V8s regularly come up on ebay for 800-1500. Like this.

Michael
 
I think that's good advice from Micheal. You need to do your homework to buy a p6 in this manner though. Make sure you know what you're dealing with before you buy. Check the sills under the sill covers, drive it and check it goes like it should.

I'd have thought £1500 would get you a decent car that may not look that pretty but is solid and reliable.... Manual v8s cost more than the autos to buy, so buying an auto means better car for same money or cheaper in the first place... but depends what you want too :) Some people need the security of a dealer, but there are a lot of people here who can help if you arent sure on a car. Posting links like you have to ones you're interesting is a really good start!

Rich
 
Hello, and good luck with your purchase.

rockdemon said:
I'd have thought £1500 would get you a decent car that may not look that pretty but is solid and reliable....

I'd like to dwindle about this point, and I must say the ellipsis is an important point to note from Richard. Onto that, I'd like to add that the price doesn't necessarily guarantee a cars condition. That sort of money is also what I'd recommend, for a daily runner - which allows plenty of scope for improvement.

In my experience, It's likely to be the cheaper cars that you'd want to go for - you can expect something that's rubbish for the price, and either get what you're expecting or be pleasantly surprised, and vice versa for the more expensive cars.

a few examples:

In September 2010, Nick Dunning from the forum had a brown 1975 2200 auto that had just been recommissioned. To make a show winner, it needed wings, a front decker panel, a rear bumper, a matching colour interior and some paintwork. Other than that, the only issues were that it had a slight rattle, and shut down smelled a bit, due to a slight oil leak above the exhaust. The plus points were that the base unit was perfectly sound, I don't think it had ever been welded, and the doors were in as good condition as you can get - easily worth £400 alone. The engine had had some work - it was either rebuilt or replaced at the time recently, and was, as a result, faster than Nick's concourse 2200 auto with less than 30k miles under its wheels. This car also had a full MOT. The car sold for £690 on ebay, and apart from needing a top up of oil (and fuel), it covered just over 1000 trouble free miles to its new home in Austria. In all honesty, I wouldn't have minded that car myself, a friend had to wrestle me from the bid button. :LOL:

Some time last year, Nick Dunning and I went to see a car that had been advertised for well over a year (and sold about a month ago I hasten to add). It was a 1975 3500 auto advertised at £4000. We went to see it in the rain (of all weathers) and despite this, even from a distance Nick straight away spotted that the bottom half was a different shade of white to the top half. When we looked in the car, there was evidence that the car had been messed about with, the carpets were damp, the car needed welding as well as half if not all the previous welding was of questionable quality. The whole quality of the car was so poor comparable to the price, we didn't bother to go for a test drive, we actually went to a scrap yard to see what they had there. I must say that I'd hate to know what the buyer of this car paid.

Also, late last year, my dad and myself went to see a 1973 2000SC that we ended up purchasing. Yes it was raining when we went to view it, and this did compromise the viewing. But it had had a cheap blow over (so looked shiney but could have been of better quality), had had some decent used panels put on the car, as well as bumpers. The interior was also of a very good quality although split in a few places. She had also been used as a daily runner - it showed, as was very reliable. Letting other people drive the car, it is said that this car had also had some engine rebuild work, as she was powerful and braked well. Relatively new tyres were also in the mix. The pitfalls of the car were that she needed some exhaust parts, and rubbers, and welding. Also on closer inspection, some of the previous "welding" was not what most people call welding. Other than that, being used as a daily by us, 6000 miles in about 6 months have been completed without drastic work required. This car was advertised at £1500 although we had to haggle.


So basically, you could get an expensive car cheaply or a theoretically cheap car by paying 'too much'. That said, some cars that are known good are expensive for the right reason; I know someone who has 2 P6's soon to be for sale, both within 30-40k miles never welded, full history (etc) that need minimal work to make concourse; and that shall be priced upwards of £3/6k. Although these are more for weekend or show use, rather than daily.

I hope my slightly long and jumpy essay has been useful :LOL:

Many Thanks, Adam.
 
This car is very close to me and at that money would need a full examination before comitting to buy!
Preferably on a ramp or big jack and stands!
No guarantee or warranty can be given by any 3rd party giving their honest opinion,and then the car going wrong in a big way!
IMHO,the owner/seller should be willing to unscrew the outer sills for a look behind!
You dont want to be spending another £2k at a specialist sorting out lots of niggles!!
You really need to look at ANY car you are thinking about buying and take a mate or find a local P6'er willing to have a looksee with you!
 
I spent at the top end when getting my P6. Not knowing alot about cars at the time i got a guy who inspected cars to have a look. He looked the car over, even putting a camera inside the doors and any other little hole he could to check for rust etc. He did find a couple of problems which he pointed out to the seller , who then sorted them out. The inspector then gave me a full report on the car which allowed me to make my decision. I went ahead, have not had any major work to do but as with any classic their will always be something. Most of my bits have been things to improve reliability and personal choice improvements. So take your time in the research and buy the best you can afford while keeping some cash back for the little things which will inevitably need doing. good luck
 
PooBrownP6 said:
As for inspection. Would that be along the lines of what VOSA does, but somebody who knows about classic cars?
Possibly. It's better than nothing I suppose, and they'd give you a good bit of feedback, but I'd want to speak to someone who really knows P6's. Anybody not familiar with the cars - VOSA inspector or not - might be likely to write off a car with crusty wings, yet recommend another with rotten inner sills. The irony being that a wing can be replaced in 15 minutes but rotten inner sills will go completely undetected if the non-structural sill covers are not removed for inspection.

That ebay car looks like a lot of work. For that money you could easily find one that's still bolted together! If it's the right car, it wouldn't necessarily take that much work to fettle it through an MOT either.

Michael
 
As regards Inspection - NO! Mr VOSA hasn't got a clue how a P6 goes wrong and nor have Mr RAC or Mr AA! You've already had offers of free inspections from a couple of experts. I'd recommend either taking them up or contacting one of the Clubs and getting a list of their insurance valuers. You never know, you might finish up paying for something you've had offered for free!

Chris
 
That last car has a "Makita" steering wheel - instantly suggesting the seller doesn't know what he's talking about
Or am I being unfair ?
 
You dont want to buy a lush looking lemon!!
Or a perfect looking pile of Poo!!
P6's can look mint inside and out,drive quite well,and still hide a whole lot of trouble,unless you know exactly what to look for.
Have a good look at a few,take a magnet,and really look at the inner arch sill ends and the floors where the outer sill bolts to it,look in the front and rear footwell inner sill uprights,do they look or feel weak and crusty?
Its circa £1500 a side to replace the inner and middle sills properly at a P6 specialist!
Find the car that you are 95% sure you want to buy,then get one of us lot,local to you or the car to have a good look over it with you.
The only cost involved may be a bit of fuel and lunch if its a bit of a hike! :wink:
 
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