1977 3.5 litre P6 soon to be available

Jules65

Member
I own a green 1977 Rover 3.5litre V6 which I have always meant to restore one day but never have and it's clear that it's not going to happen now and I am now about to lose where it has been stored for soooo many years.

I am hoping to go and view it in the next few days and I will take photos of the car and numerous parts I have. What I can say is that the car has only done 28,000 from new but I expect the engine is seized. The car is located in Derbyshire and around 5 miles off Junction 30 of the M1 but a trailer WILL be required to move it (and a van for all the parts).

I have no idea on a value at this time but really want to part with it all as o e lot..

Please reply to this thread if you may be interested.
 
before turning crank with large wrench etc pull plugs and inject a couple of teaspoons engine oil and mixed with a little diesel . allow 10 miss standing for ring to soak then try slow turning by hand. its teh rings that tend to stick to cyl walls and if we can ease the friction with the oil/diesel fist it will go a long way to avoiding ring adhesion/wall friction damage .once we are sure it turns ok we can jump crank again no plugs. it ought to crank easily . hopefully! then refit plugs if we want try and star. bear in mind full will be useless.so ideally we want a bit of fresh in carbs . thats bit of messing about so all I did in past was remove end of filter box and squirt a little fresh fuel direct in motel filter section.reft filter end cap and filter. then crank check i did have a spark first. the fumes form the fuel enabling an initial rough start /stumble idle . proving basic engine was functioning and if ..it runs for a half minute ro so we can check oil pressure too. bear in mind many things will need changing.hoses . fluids . tyres and pads may be stuck a bit on discs..
 
before turning crank with large wrench etc pull plugs and inject a couple of teaspoons engine oil and mixed with a little diesel . allow 10 miss standing for ring to soak then try slow turning by hand. its teh rings that tend to stick to cyl walls and if we can ease the friction with the oil/diesel fist it will go a long way to avoiding ring adhesion/wall friction damage .once we are sure it turns ok we can jump crank again no plugs. it ought to crank easily . hopefully! then refit plugs if we want try and star. bear in mind full will be useless.so ideally we want a bit of fresh in carbs . thats bit of messing about so all I did in past was remove end of filter box and squirt a little fresh fuel direct in motel filter section.reft filter end cap and filter. then crank check i did have a spark first. the fumes form the fuel enabling an initial rough start /stumble idle . proving basic engine was functioning and if ..it runs for a half minute ro so we can check oil pressure too. bear in mind many things will need changing.hoses . fluids . tyres and pads may be stuck a bit on discs..

Is it OK to use "ether" or in my case 'start ya bastard"
 
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inner wings look to be okay apart from a small area top of nearside one.......................and birds nest is an optional extra
 
The garage the car WAS once stored in contains a lot of spares such as 2 bonnets, 2 boots, a set of doors, 6 front wings and a set of rear wings, a set of box pleat seats, 2 dash pods....loads of badges, a pair of ET headrests (I sold the rears to 'Ian P6 Man' years ago), a set of new brake pads, a set of new wheel bearings, a girling brake adjuster tool, new dampers, brand new window wiper rubbers imported from Australia. A good boot wheel holder and blanking plate, winguard wing mirrors, a complete set of rubber bushes, repair panels for the mounts in the boot (they were okay on the car years ago but the boot is full so I haven't checked them) a 3500s manual gearbox (supposedly overhauled) and soooooo much more I haven't looked at yet.










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there are parts inside the car such as 2 sets of 3500s wheel caps, battery boxes and lids, spare cylinder heads, servo, brake caliper, air intake filter assembly, exhaust back box. Also at the rear of the garage is a spare diff and rear suspension assembly from a 3500s

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ether can assist starting but the oil / diesel mix in bores will greatly assist doing damage to bores when engine has not bene cranked for some time. a few choice words is always helpful but if its anything like my car..it will turn a deaf ear anyway. good luck.
 
As has already been said, the engine has only done 28,000 miles. The history of the car is as follows;

A chap who ran a Rover dealership ordered the car as the SD1 was coming out and he kept it till he retired. He passed the car onto his son who was a Doctor and he didnt use it and stored it in his garage. Then came some really bad weather and the car was subjected to floods and the Doctor GAVE IT AWAY via a forum and the chap who grabbed it stripped it and sold all the parts throughout the world. I got the chassis and engine and had it transported to a garage where I intended to work on it but other commitments got in the way. Then the car was pushed out the garage by the landowner and has sat where it is to this day unloved.
I now have to move it and all the parts I amassed ready to restore it..............................so contact me if you are interested in taking it all as a job lot.
 
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