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2000sc Rougher than ever

Discussion in 'Engine 4 cylinder' started by georgecook, Mar 14, 2017.

  1. ButterFingers

    ButterFingers Member

    hi George,
    Yes the Daimler was a nice driver, the small V8 had plenty of power, sadly there are not many left intact, most that went to the USA were used as racing engines , dont we all wish that we still had all the old cars that have passed through our hands, just
    a wish. Press on with your diagnosis, you will strike gold very soon....
    Peter
     
  2. georgecook

    georgecook Member

    I NEED HELP... have sorted the valve clearances on 6 of the 8 valves and they are now within tolerance. However am unable to understand the problem I am having with numbers one and three tappets from the front both are inlet.
    When I checked them yesterday both were showing zero clearance, I therefore removed the thinner shims from each, replaced the camshaft and measured the gaps and shims required. The replacement shims for these two valves only, were put inlace and the camshaft refitted. Unfortunately the gaps were incorrect showing 15 and 17 thou.I then removed the camshaft again, replaced the shims with thicker ones to hopefully arrive at the correct clearance of 9thou. Again there was no difference in the valve clearance they were still showing 15 and 17 thou.. I have repeated this procedure again with only number 3 valve showing a slight difference of 1 thou. Something is surely wrong.
    The collects for both valves appear to be ok.
    ;
     
  3. georgecook

    georgecook Member

    The last line should read " The Coletts for both valves appear to be ok".... sorry george
     
  4. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    The only reason I can think that adding thicker shims doesn't decrease the valve clearance is if the shims are too short and the bucket is resting on the top of the valve retainer, and not on the top of the shim.
     
  5. georgecook

    georgecook Member

    Thanks Harvey, I cannot understand it, I was thinking there must be a problem with the valves, but for two to have a problem at the same time seems unlikely. Also bearing in mind that the compression test carried out previously was satisfactory. Would I be able to see if there was a possibility of fouling the valve retainer if I removed both suspect cups while turning the cam shaft.
     
  6. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    Id just put a straight edge across the top of the valve and shims and see what it rests on.
     
  7. georgecook

    georgecook Member

  8. georgecook

    georgecook Member

    I checked out the two valve retainers at the weekend. Tried the end of a steel rule across them and with and without the shims in place, there didn't appear anything untoward, and with the shims in position, these stood proud of the valve as they should. However both tappets cups were slightly more difficult to remove and required my stronger magnet to ease them out of the tappets carrier. Fearing possible damage or distortion (unlikely) of these cups I replaced them with two spare cups. Number one cup can now be removed using my standard magnet, number three still need a the stronger magnet but is slightly easier than previously.
    The valve clearance for number one was showing at 15thou with shims of 0.359thickness fitted and number 3 valve a clearance of 17 thou with shims of 0.321 thickness fitted. I obviously was aiming for a nine thou. clearance for both valves and fittedsuitable shims to achieve that.
    I have now had the camshaft off a number of times over the weekend trying to achieve the correct clearance. The clearances now stand at 12 thou for number one after adding in total 0.029 to the shims and for number 3 valve the clearance is 16 thou after adding 0.042 thou to the spacers.
    Am tempted to now leave them as they are, as I am absolutely sick of taking that camshaft on and off and on and off.........I simply don't have a clue what's happening
     
  9. sdibbers

    sdibbers Active Member

    If it helps at all George, it took me a whole day of playing hokey cokey with the camshaft to get my valves right last year. It didn't help the first time I did it that I added instead of subtracted a value for one set of shims.

    In the end I made this spreadsheet on google sheets. I could modify the numbers on my phone/ipad while working on the car and it would spit out the correct shim height. Feel free to use it here
    Instructions are:
    Fill in your current valve clearance in the green cells. Then measure both shims in each tappet and fill in the yellow cells. The spreadsheet will calculate the correct shim height for the clearance in the blue cells and the adjustment required in the pink cells. See attached image to help.
     

    Attached Files:

  10. georgecook

    georgecook Member

    I believe there is a little light at the end of the tunnel.
    My valve clearances are now
    Number one cylinder inlet 0.012 exhaust 0.013inches
    Number two cylinder inlet0.015 exhaust 0.014inches
    Number three cylinder inlet 0.009 exhaust 0.014inches
    Number four cylinder inlet 0.009 exhaust 0.014inches
    Would have loved to sort out my problem with numbers one and three valves but am completely lost there, and can understand forum users wondering what the world I am talking about.
    The engine started first click of the button but is still noisy, but somehow a "smoother" noisy. It feels more responsive and powerful without the tendency to cut out.The engine idles better.
    I removed the carb to check on the sleeve in the inlet manifold to determine whether it was making some noise, this is mentioned elsewhere on the forum. Found nothing there and all seems fine. There is however a tappets noise emanating from the carb inlet manifold area.
    Was about to take it for a drive around the block to see how it ran, it was only then that I noticed my brake fluid reservoir was bone dry
    The engine is certainly better, but there is some way to go.
    SDIBBERS....many thanks for the offer, will check it out now, really appreciate that
     
    sdibbers likes this.
  11. sdibbers

    sdibbers Active Member

    All sounds good! The 4 cylinder engine really doesn't like tight valve clearances, it makes them run very rough. Once you close up the clearances the tappet noise will get much better. I did find that my car sounded a little tappety after getting close to the right clearances at first. After a 1,000 miles or so it quietened down nicely without closing up again. I guess it take a while for the surfaces to match up nicely. By the way, you're very welcome. It saved me loads of head scratching after making a mess of it the first time.
     
  12. georgecook

    georgecook Member

    Have also found a couple of holes in the front exhaust pipe.
    The first one is behind the bracket mounting onto the gearbox. I have had to grind off the bracket to gain access to weld a patch onto the pipe. The difficult part is now to re-weld the bracket back onto the pipe at the correct angle and position.
    The second hole is close to the swaged end which attaches to the first silencer pipe.
    Both holes were very small, until you start cleaning them up with a wire brush.
    If repaired correctly this should reduce the" engine noise" somewhat.
     
  13. harveyp6

    harveyp6 Well-Known Member

    If it's an SC manual the rovering member has a new mild steel frontpipe for sale. You would just need to confirm it's for a manual if that's what you need but I'm pretty sure it is. Easier than welding up an old one.
     
  14. The Rovering Member

    The Rovering Member Well-Known Member

    I do indeed, subject to confirmation that it's a manual.
    £40.
     

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