2200TC Project

I've been busy, haven't seen the TC for breaking yet, and I'm fed up waiting for a welder to get back to me, so I invested in a tube of Evo Stik Putty Weld for my leaky pipe. It's still setting, but after 10 minutes it's hard as steel. I'm optimistic but I'll try it under pressure later.
 
I attached the pipe to the water tap again, the Evo putty weld appears to have worked but...After further inspection two larger and two smaller leaks now discovered. I'm quite surprised by this hidden split pipe. I'd recommend to all 4 pot owners to get it off and strip the underside to inspect or just replace with a plumbing alternative, which I'm going to do now.
Cheers all.
 
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I have one, albeit cut a bit shorter, running under the EFI manifold to run the heater. Never had an issue with it.
 
Now I have another way to remind me how fast time is going, the latest issue of the p6 magazine arrived this morning. I see we have a new Irish member and a Professor Mick Rae no less. Lofty company. I'm also glad Michael isn't doing the typing, as there is also a gentleman with the surname of "Brain", that might have caused him some confusion. :D
 
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I regret the title as now all my d1psh1t questions just reinforce that academic types have no common sense Force of habit from filling online forms in so often. I also it seems managed to say the car was a 2000, when I meant to say 2200. Maybe I don't have any sense at all! But good taste in cars, so that'll do.
 
It's very good advice. I had no idea it was rolled from flat! Never had an issue with mine, but now starting to think how lucky I was!
Its standard CRW tube ( Cold Rolled Welded or ERW ( Electrically Resistant Welded) , Made from strip steel off a coil ,continuously rolled and welded along the seam into a tube and cut off into long lengths . Most engine coolant pipes are made this way Generally used where they is no particularly high pressure involved or just structures like furniture. I have just made a new one for my TC as the ends were badly corroded where the rubber hoses were clamped.
 
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Hi all, I have a wee problem. A non-starter. I renewed all the electrics, from the battery, to the spark plugs. Ignition timing appears to be correct, fuel going to the carbs. But it wont start. Had a mechanic look at it briefly, he fiddled with the points, nothing. So while I'm waiting for him to come back and have a proper look, a friend of my wife's showed up, with her elderly uncle, who is just out of hospital, kidney op. He leapt out of the car when he saw the Rover with the bonnet up. Made straight for the Carbs - ex Biker. I explained where I was with the car. He came back today, to have a look, and he cant understand why it isn't starting, I noticed the brand new Coil from Wins was very hot after two or three spins. I rang a local parts guy, fortunately I got the owner who knew the car, so I got another new Coil. No start. There's more...

So we were having a tea-break, and a guy appears at the back door - I'm from the Electoral Register, just checking if anyone..."Eh who owns the Rover? What's the matter with it? I used to own one in Liverpool, my dad's. It had a fuse come loose in the box and he was quoted silly money at the garage, so he gave it to me. I fixed the fuse." We were talking for ages. Lunch went cold. Anyway then "uncle" needed to go home. I got back to the house and the welder who I contacted two months ago about my leaky pipe, had been in touch!! Whew. One of those days.

Anyway if anyone can suggest a possible cause I'd appreciate it.
 
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Have you checked that you are getting sparks? I'd be inclined, since its getting some fuel, to not change carb settings (since it ran previously on the settings they are at presumably). If you have sparks and petrol, then is it 'trying to run' at all? You don't mention the distributor cap - try swapping that for either a new one or an old one that works, Ditto the rotor. One thing at a time, and you'll find the weak link.
 
Were I a betting man, I'd bet on a faulty rotor arm – especially if it's a new pattern part with a rivet holding the contact to the plastic. Proper ones from the Distributor Doctor (Google him) are the best bet.
 
Were I a betting man, I'd bet on a faulty rotor arm – especially if it's a new pattern part with a rivet holding the contact to the plastic. Proper ones from the Distributor Doctor (Google him) are the best bet.
Okay...thanks John, I got a box of spares, with the car. One of the Items was a Rotor Arm, I put it on and immediately noticed the key is on the wrong side, it was pointing the wrong way. I put the old one back on. But everything else is new. I'll get a proper one. Thanks all.
 
Wife has reminders set on her phone, this popped up this morning.

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Resting in a barn not 20 minutes away. Arctic Whiite, Sundym, 50K on the Clock. Not for Sale. He was a bit rude to me, so here's what I'm going to do...
It needs a battery and a clutch slave, I have both. Next time I'm passing, I'll drop them in with him! Hah.
 
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"BrianMac123: You have found the EP mark and the the degree markings from TDC either side of it. These are not the ignition timing marks. When the ignition timing marks on your bottom pulley show TDC or thereabouts, you should see similar marks on the flywheel. "

Pulley at TDC, no sign of markings on the flywheel. Gong to clean around now and try to find them! Does this suggest anything, like it has been set up incorrectly?
 
How did yougo with getting a spark? Timing won't work if youdon't have spark....Quick test is to open distributor, hold lead from centre of coil close to something NOT full of petrol and either open the points or bridge the gap. if no spark and your coil is hot I'd say the line to the points is shorting somewhere. If coil is cold there is a dud connection. Check you still have a pigtail wire connecting the two plates in the distributor and its firmly anchored. If so its a case of working back through the connections to the coil...Points are usually the offender.
 
"BrianMac123: You have found the EP mark and the the degree markings from TDC either side of it. These are not the ignition timing marks. When the ignition timing marks on your bottom pulley show TDC or thereabouts, you should see similar marks on the flywheel. "

Pulley at TDC, no sign of markings on the flywheel. Gong to clean around now and try to find them! Does this suggest anything, like it has been set up incorrectly?

There's only one possible position on the crankshaft for both the bottom pulley and the flywheel, so they must be right. Unless someone in the past has omitted the fywheel dowel peg or the Woodruff key for the bottom pulley, both highly unlikely.
 
There's only one possible position on the crankshaft for both the bottom pulley and the flywheel, so they must be right. Unless someone in the past has omitted the fywheel dowel peg or the Woodruff key for the bottom pulley, both highly unlikely.
i believe there were some reported examples of pulleys having timing marks in the incorrect position. As they are an assembly of an outer ring suspended around a ring of rubberised damping material, I'd be more inclined to trust the flywheel EP marks. Having said that, I did work Fraser Kinghorn's (FrazzleTC) 2000SC auto many years ago, which had a later 2200 auto engine fitted and there was no EP mark at all!
 
i believe there were some reported examples of pulleys having timing marks in the incorrect position. As they are an assembly of an outer ring suspended around a ring of rubberised damping material, I'd be more inclined to trust the flywheel EP marks. Having said that, I did work Fraser Kinghorn's (FrazzleTC) 2000SC auto many years ago, which had a later 2200 auto engine fitted and there was no EP mark at all!

I think there is another Michael. I can find the EP marks, but no TDC marks. I've got a really powerful light and I'm just about to go around again. And yes I can see the rubber damper you mentioned.
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Yes, just been all around the fly-wheel again. Definitely no Timing marks, only EP.
 
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Oops I posted in the wrong section.

Rebuild kits for TC ready to go on, but I'm slightly confused by the D shaped port and tab situated on the front Carburettor, I can see right into the float chamber. Can't be right. Should it be blocked off? Is there a piece missing? Does the tab serve any purpose? Any advice would be appreciated.

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On my single carb, fuel overflows from there when float gets stuck. I thought perhaps there was meant to be a pipe to direct such erroneous overflow to ground and avoid the hot bits, but it appears not. I had overflow pipes on my old MG, but have not worried too much now since fuel did not combust on exhaust manifold, but did stink, quickly warning me of the situation. And cleaning that side of the engine! If indeed that's a similar d shaped hole as on the sc. If not, apologies for spouting nonsense in addition to petrol!
 
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