Advice on rust P6 3500

Dear All,

i'm looking for a decent 3500 with not too much surprises/ work (not much experience or ambition for welding etc).
I've seen a nice looking and driving a '72 3500 yesterday in Germany and have noticed some small rust-spots and a weird looking crack above the rear wind-shield/ roof panel.
I've not been able to remove the rear seats and carpets in front of the owner. The trunk has gotten a new welded in floor and (when i pulled up the upholstery) batteryspace. Wheelarches and sill look and feel good (as much as visible because of thick layer of tectyl or something) as does the trailing arm/suspension.
But: at the door rubbers some small spots of rust are visible: see below: is this an announcement of horror underneath the surface?

_1240746_kl.jpg_1240747_kl.jpg_1240749_kl.jpg
And: at the rear windshield a strange crack is visible: could this be a rusted-through roofpanel, or a hardened seal or something? See below.

_1240753_kl.jpg

I hope you can give me some advice on how to interpret these issues!

Thanks,
 
Hi Marco.

It’s always a bonus to lift the rear seat cushions out because the box channel below is the quickest guide to a P6’s body health.

However, from the photos you show suggest the car may be OK. I would be happy to go & look at a P6 with pictures like that as it doesn’t look too bad.
 
Hi Phil,

thanks for your reply. According to the owner the hollow spaces have been filled with Mike Sanders grease.
What could the crack above the rear windshield be? Is this clear from the pictures? Does this mean the roof has to be replaced?


greetings, marco.
 
That’s only sealant that’s cracked, the roof is a bolt on panel like the rest of the exterior
Jim
 
Welcome Marco.
As Jim said.
Believe it is a Butyl Mastic sealant and probably dried out. Any obvious water leakage onto rear parcel shelf or water marks on headlining?
Think I'd be more concerned about the crack in the rear wheel arch area.
 
Thanks Mike, Jim,

no water stains on headlining, but a bit powdery (corroded) feel on metal doorhandle (inside), so i don't think the roof has kept out all water. No stuffy or mouldy smell inside though.
The crack in the rear wheel area doesn't promise much good? I think i'll ask the seller to remove rear seats and insulation first to have a look down there.
Is the sealant repair a costly one? Or can it be done easy by oneself?

Thanks and greetings,

marco.
 
I am certainly not an expert, but believe it would be just a matter of a tube in a caulking gun and then running a thin bead where the cracked sealant is and then smoothing off if necessary. The most difficult bit would be a continuous bead from one side to the other. If you are tall it will be easier than if you are my height, might have to stand on a low step ladder or box.

Getting the seat out and back is easy, just pull and lift, and then reverse the process.

Good luck.
 
Seller has lifted out the rear seats to have a look underneath. Looks decent i think?
Also underneath the carpet at the drivers side: no visible rust.
Strange about the smell though (thinking about it, the car did have a typical old shanty-smell). I've seen two P6's, one smelled bad, the other didn't (aRear Seat Left side 1.jpgRear seat Right Side 1.jpgt all).
 
The recess between the pressed bit under the seat and the sill is where the problems tend to occur. You need to see down into that hole.
 
I doubt very much that you'll find a rust free example, as these cars did rust rather well and even the late ones are pretty much 45 years old now.

This is the box you need to look into

rear seat well.JPG
 
I'd give those rear sections a good 9/10. Just put some Dinitrol down there and do the same from the outside with the cover sill off. If you drive the car in dry conditions only now for practical purposes rust will never be an issue.
 
The cavities of the car have been treated with Mike Sanders (so the previous owner told me, no invoice or anything to confirm). I'll check the outside with the cover off, haven't been able to do that. The car will see some rain for sure. I live in Belgium, so that is pretty much unavoidable.
Peter: you mean the Dinitrol rust-converter or the surface protection? I have used Fertan as a rust-converter combined with Fluid-Film for the cavities for my other younger classic (a volvo from '89, so rust is less of an issue). This has worked fine, even driving through 2 winters.
Does anyone have experience with Fertan as a rust-converter?
 
I don't know that product. I'd use a surface rust stabilization product, then something that "creeps" along seams. This is best done in hot weather because even if you heat the product it'll obviously cool pretty much instantly on the metal. You could try thinning it with a compatible solvent if that's recommended by the maker.

But you absolutely MUST remove the cover sill for any worthwhile inspection. It'll be good for your peace of mind also.
 
Ah, alright. Fertan is the first, Mike Sanders grease the second... For some reason both especially popular in Germany i think.
Removing cover sill to check further: will do this for sure. Thanks again!
 
The base unit on my 68 Series 1 is very clean. There are a few sections of the rubber retaining track where dirt has gotten down and caused a bit of a problem but nothing to serious. I'd say from the photos that car might have the same. I'm in the process of fixing mine but you could probably clean it and treat/fish oil it and it would last another 50 years.
 
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