Australian members - BW35 tough bits?

ewokracing

ewokracing

Active Member
Hello

So, I finally started up my car yesterday and tonight with Cup Day tomorrow (no traffic around), it was quiet so I took the car out. When I slowly ease on the throttle it shifts up and it also shifts down without a problem, however if I gas it (ie merging), the auto box groans and bangs and stays in First.

I've read a little about the Borg Warner 35 and fixes for this problem etc, but has anyone on here from Aus. actually upgraded their BW35, and if you did, what parts did you use? I've heard you can use later Borg Warner parts inside the 35, ie stuff from later Ford Falcons and Valiants. I also want it to shift a bit more crisply, rather than just slur into the next gear.

Thoughts?
 
I have heard of it, and the Aussie versions got a lot of mods that the UK never saw. From what I remember the internals are larger, and the rear servo is retained by 3 bolts instead of two, and for those reasons it all has to be built up in the Australian main casing.
 
Hello ewokracing,

The parts that you are enquiring about are readily available here in Australia, and being in Melbourne as you are, no problem should be had in obtaining them. Basically everything within the box is removed and replaced with higher spec Ford components including kevlar bands and heavy duty clutches. The torque converter and valve body however are both Rover spec and must be retained. The torque converter for its higher stall speed, the valve body to maintain the gear change speed points.

I had my transmission completely rebuilt last which included modifications to increase line pressure resulting in very firm and fast gear changes. The box had received a partial upgrade when it was rebuilt in 1996, but with last year's rebuild it has been given everything. According to the builder, the box is now significantly stronger and far more reliable than the original BW35 specification. In effect it is no longer a BW35, rather it is an M51 now.

Ron.
 
What I would say in answer to what Ron has said previously is that you won't be able to use all of the Australian mods if you build the box up into a UK spec main case, as you won't be able to fit the rear servo because there won't be a threaded hole in the case to take the third mounting bolt, and the larger internals won't fit in the casing either. You could use uprated friction materials in a UK spec box, but it still won't be as good as the Australian one. (Which also had a vacuum modulator on it as well IIRC.)
 
ah. Given that mine's got a body VIN that somehow is totally different to what it should have and that its listed as a 1978 build on the rego sticker, I'm not sure what transmission its got in there. Guess I'll have to wait and see when it gets pulled out.
 
Hello ewokracing,

I have just had a squizz at the pics of your Rover, and I can say that it has a BW65 transmission. The dip stick location is the give-a-way, with the BW35 being on the other side.

Ron.
 
Ron: great! at least someone knows what I have. Alrighty then, so to change my topic a bit, can you get tough bits for a BW65? :LOL:
 
The BW65 also appeared behind the Jaguar XJ6 with its 4.2 litre engine, which developed more power and torque than the 3.5 Rover V8. So on that front, parts that are available here in Australia for the transmission should be more than sufficient to do the job. Now whether or not Ford hard parts along with heavy duty clutches and kevlar bands are also available I cannot be certain, although I am led to believe from a discussion I had with a transmission builder that they are.

Ron.
 
A post directed at Harvey as much as ewok. The reported defects might also be caused by badle set selector cable, kickdown cable and fluid level? Wouldn't ot be better to go through these properly before getting too fired up about transmission rebuilds?

Chris
 
chrisyork said:
A post directed at Harvey as much as ewok. The reported defects might also be caused by badle set selector cable, kickdown cable and fluid level? Wouldn't ot be better to go through these properly before getting too fired up about transmission rebuilds?

Chris
Click to expand...

I agree. I assume most people go here
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6163
first, but not everybody bothers.

And as said earlier, as it's actually a 65, not a 35, the Aussie geartrain and clutch drums won't fit the casing if they are larger. Only option then is to upgrade to BW66 spec.
 
Ah but I did read that transmission checklist! :D

The trans fluid does look clean, I will be doing a more thorough check as soon as I get some time. Failing that, I'll get the transmission rebuilt
 
Mine's a little bit earlier than yours but still from the same run and has the BW65 too.

Going from the documentation I have with a load of notes and diagrams tucked in the workshop manual that came with it at some stage in the past it has had the valve block swapped out with one from a Jag to give a taller 2nd gear.

They do seem to be quite prone to the selector cable causing issues if badly adjusted so this would be well worth a check from what you describe. On mine the plastic bush at the bottom of the shifter was totally shot and i was getting a huge amount of play in the selector cable which seemed to be leading to it holding first way too long too, all sorted when I got a new bush for it from Scotts in Oakleigh.

I've got a spare BW65 at the back of the garage if you find yourself needing one as a reference point etc. Not sure what sort of condition it's in but just give me a shout if it'd be of any use.

Vicroads have also not got the VIN right for mine, they have taken the base unit serial number from the boot label instead of the vin from the tag in the engine bay so may be likely they have done the same for yours.

Cheers,

Al
 
tvr_v8 said:
Going from the documentation I have with a load of notes and diagrams tucked in the workshop manual that came with it at some stage in the past it has had the valve block swapped out with one from a Jag to give a taller 2nd gear.

Cheers,

Al
Click to expand...

Altering or changing the valve block can't give a "taller" second gear, or any other gear for that matter, the ratios are set by the geartrain. All it can do is make second gear hang on longer before it changes up into top.
 
Sorry to bring up a necro thread, but it came up while researching. What's the easiest way to ID an Australian 35 from the outside? Cheers, Rob.
 
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