Autobox removal

Tony58

Tony58

Member
Hi All, I'm new to the forum and the 3500 I've had for a year has never had a working reverse gear, I'm getting close to looking at what the problem is and would welcome some pointers. Can the box be removed and the bell housing and torque converter left in situe or is it easier to remove the whole lump
 
Hi All, sump off and it all looks pretty clean, the rear servo, circular bit with the large o ring round it was right down in the bore. Someone has rubbed the bore down in the past as it's scored, would this cause no reverse, should there be a spring inside? Could it be that that's sticking, any comments
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0265-600x1067.JPG
    DSC_0265-600x1067.JPG
    147.2 KB · Views: 31
It should look as it does in your pic. Check for cracks around where the mounting boss joins the servo body. Did you test to see whether it had TOP gear and engine braking in "1" before you took the sump off? Did you check the adjustment?
 
Hi. Yep all worked fine, everything except reverse, just nothing there, nothing worked on inhibitor switch either, I might replace the o ring as a matter of course
 
Hi, with it jacked up, it drove upto 50mph in d2, upto 30mph in d1 and 10mph in ĺ, I've never driven it on the road yet, I freed off the reverse adjuster, wouldnt take long to put sump back on, can you recommend what to do next
 
Driving it on stands won't tell you anything because it's not under load.

Can you see any signs of the servo seal around the piston?
 
Ho ho ho, rear servo back in, sump on, fresh atf-g in and reverse returned, then as engine attained working temp, reverse disappeared, all other gears returned so I tuned engine and got the engine tickover as low as I Dare, but then oil light came on, so it's a compromise. Engine sounds very sweet so il leave as is, next job box out
 
Hi All, autobox nearly out, the hardest job was the filler, dipstick tube, I've made a natty support frame that the sump sits in and is fixed to my 3 ton jack. I will be working on my back. It looks a heavy lump even with the bellhousing and torque convertor still attached to the engine, hence the support frame, the sump fits neatly within it, il let you all know how I get on
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0004-800x450-640x360.JPG
    DSC_0004-800x450-640x360.JPG
    66.2 KB · Views: 20
I think Harvey will tell you to be carful when refitting so as not to damage the seal with the torque converter.

If you take the bell housing off I suggest getting a spare socket and grind it to make the outer wall thinner. Some of the bolts are hard to get with standard sockets.

Colin
 
arthuy said:
I think Harvey will tell you to be carful when refitting so as not to damage the seal with the torque converter.

If you take the bell housing off I suggest getting a spare socket and grind it to make the outer wall thinner. Some of the bolts are hard to get with standard sockets.

Colin
Click to expand...
Thanks for the info
 
DSC_0008-640x360.JPG DSC_0007-640x360.JPG Hi All, gearbox out, was pretty straight forward, bent a ring spanner at 90 degrees to get to the awkward bolts, the worse ones were just above the sump, tucked away in a corner, I was surprised how light it is, thought it would be heavier, next job decreasing and rebuild, unfortunately I can't view the pictures of the gearbox rebuild that was posted, don't know why because I could before, does anyone know if this is original to the 68 3500, and would it be better sourcing another recon box
 
387 is the series number for a factory reconditioned box rebuilt to 267 specification, so it's not the original box, it's been rebuilt to a later specification at the factory, but that's no guarantee of what the spec inside it is now. The only way to know everything that has failed inside your box is to dismantle it and have a look. If you've lost REVERSE and TOP it will be the rear clutch, if you've lost REVERSE only it will be the rear servo, plus anything else that has worn out or got damaged over time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top