Ballist Resistor location 2000TC

Just reading the Haynes manual and the White Rover manual and it says to set the timing using the strobe on number four plug lead. I've always used number one on every car I've ever had.

It makes no difference, I can only think they only say use number 4 because 1 is right next to the cap and risks crossfiring. I always do it on number one. Try it when you do it.
 
I think I'll pull the plugs and check the compression again. The engine turns over easily and the pressures when I checked a few weeks ago were all around 170 psi.
Regards Terry H
 
Just did a compression test and the result isn't good number 1=170, number 2=120, number 3=165, number 4=175. So looks like I have a major problem on number 2. Not sure what I want to do with this car now, will have to weigh up my options.
Regards Terry H
 
Have you checked if the valve tappet clearances are with the required specifications? If they are too tight they will give low compression values.
 
A few months ago I did a compression test and they read Number 1=170, number 2=175 number 3=165 number 4=180. I double checked number 2 to be sure I read it right. I want to get the car in the garage before I do anything else. So I have to move another car first which has a leaking steering rack.
Regards Terry H
 
Just did a compression test and the result isn't good number 1=170, number 2=120, number 3=165, number 4=175. So looks like I have a major problem on number 2. Not sure what I want to do with this car now, will have to weigh up my options.
Regards Terry H

Take your time and do a compression test. Maybe pull the head.

There are spare engines out there, if needed.
 
As mentioned I've done two compression tests and came up with the same numbers. Will have to get it into the garage before I do anything else.
Regards Terry H
 
Work on my MG BGT has had to stop as it is now driveable and road worthy so I thought I would get back to the P6. Last Saturday I put about 10ml of oil down each cylinder and did another compression test and the numbers were 1 = 180 psi, 2 = 165, 3 = 160, 4 = 180 so suspect valves not closing properly, or stem seals, though I would think worn stem seals would show on exhaust emissions.
I have re-installed the points and set the gap to .016in. New plugs fitted, tried starting it and it turns over very fast and tries to start. This is probably not the best thing to do but when turning over by starter if I press the throttle it revs up and when I release the key it cuts out. I'm wondering if the starter switch may be faulty. Any comments welcome.
 
This is probably not the best thing to do but when turning over by starter if I press the throttle it revs up and when I release the key it cuts out. I'm wondering if the starter switch may be faulty. Any comments welcome.

The coil is fed by both the ignition and the starter when it is turning the engine. If it stops as soon as you release the starter, it may be that the feed to the coil from the ignition is not working. Try turning the ignition on, and see if you have power to the coil.
 
Work on my MG BGT has had to stop as it is now driveable and road worthy so I thought I would get back to the P6. Last Saturday I put about 10ml of oil down each cylinder and did another compression test and the numbers were 1 = 180 psi, 2 = 165, 3 = 160, 4 = 180 so suspect valves not closing properly, or stem seals, though I would think worn stem seals would show on exhaust emissions.
I have re-installed the points and set the gap to .016in. New plugs fitted, tried starting it and it turns over very fast and tries to start. This is probably not the best thing to do but when turning over by starter if I press the throttle it revs up and when I release the key it cuts out. I'm wondering if the starter switch may be faulty. Any comments welcome.
The starting under the key and dying will be a dead ballast resister. It’s located in the wiring going to the rev counter behind the dash. Easiest way to test is to temporarily run a wire from the points to the coil (temporary because you’ll burn the coil of left like that). If it runs then it’s definitely the resister.

As an aside, valve stem seals will not affect compression. The most likely culprits if oil in the cylinders didn’t change the reading would be valves need lapping in or, possibly, very worn valve guides.
 
"Try turning the ignition on, and see if you have power to the coil."

Will have to have a look at that tomorrow as my garage is 2-3 miles away. What's the best way to test that. Every bit of information is most welcome on this. I had a similar thing happen on my Scimitar 3000 GTE a few years ago and it turned out to be the ignition switch. The switch is £40 + p+p so don't want to buy one if it's not needed.
Regards Terry H
 
"Easiest way to test is to temporarily run a wire from the points to the coil"

I thought the wire that runs from the coil to the distributor was going to the points.
Regards Terry H
 
"Easiest way to test is to temporarily run a wire from the points to the coil"

I thought the wire that runs from the coil to the distributor was going to the points.
Regards Terry H
Normally the wire runs via the tacho so it can pick up the signal. Unless you have a four cyl auto or SC.
 
I have a 4 Cylinder 2000 TC. As far as I see there's two wires running from one side of the coil into the harness and one wire from the other side which goes to the distributor.
Regards Terry H
 
Yeah that makes sense. my memory is screwed up with age. The two wires would be the 12v + start voltage feed (The part that's still working) and the ballasted 9v+ run voltage (which should be going via the wire previously mentioned). The wire from the points should be the ground (12v-). Apologies for the bum steer. Try jumping a permanent 12v feed to the side with two wires and see if it runs. You can also put a volt meter across the + coil terminal and an earth to see if you have a voltage with the ignition on.
 
I've made a note of all that info and will have a look at it tomorrow morning though this bit, "Try jumping a permanent 12v feed to the side with two wires and see if it runs", may be a little difficult with the battery in the boot. I'll have to find a long piece of wire.
As for the valve issue, at some point in the very near future I'll get the head off and have it done for unleaded and maybe have it skimmed at the same time, depending on price.
Regards Terry H
 
I've made a note of all that info and will have a look at it tomorrow morning though this bit, "Try jumping a permanent 12v feed to the side with two wires and see if it runs", may be a little difficult with the battery in the boot. I'll have to find a long piece of wire.
As for the valve issue, at some point in the very near future I'll get the head off and have it done for unleaded and maybe have it skimmed at the same time, depending on price.
Regards Terry H
You can find one in the engine bay. Even just jump from the head lamps with them switched on.
 
Checked everything mentioned above and checked plugs and points gap, put timing marks at 6 BTDC, Cylinder 1 at top of stroke and rotor arm at firing on number one. Put a wire direct from battery live to + on coil, turned ignition on and started the engine with no problem. Ran for a very short time then turned it off. So am I to assume that the eureka wire is at fault, if so what's the answer to replacing that. If it was a ballast resistor I would just get a new one and replace it.
Regards Terry H
 
Checked everything mentioned above and checked plugs and points gap, put timing marks at 6 BTDC, Cylinder 1 at top of stroke and rotor arm at firing on number one. Put a wire direct from battery live to + on coil, turned ignition on and started the engine with no problem. Ran for a very short time then turned it off. So am I to assume that the eureka wire is at fault, if so what's the answer to replacing that. If it was a ballast resistor I would just get a new one and replace it.
Regards Terry H
The resister is hidden inside the wiring loom unfortunately. In my case I converted to electronic ignition and a 3 ohm coil so eliminated the resister by running a new wire via the tacho.
 
Back
Top