Ballist Resistor location 2000TC

That's how this all started. I fitted a new electronic ignition from Mark Grey along with new plugs, leads, distributor cap, rotor arm and coil, all correct for the model, I drove down the road a couple of hundred yards and the engine cut out and wouldn't start. I towed it to my garage and that's where it's sat ever since.
Regards Terry H
 
Thanks Chris, That's not far from me, about 7 miles, but we are on a area lockdown which means I can't leave Newport. I will ring him though.
Regards Terry H
 
Removed the dash and found the pink/white wire, I expected something a bit thicker for a Ballast resistor or Eureka wire. I have removed the tape and moved the joint where the Pink/white wire is joined to the white wire down behind the glove box and have followed the Pink/White wire to where it goes through the bulkhead. I can't see where it comes through the bulkhead in the engine bay but assume it's under the wiper motor, then joins to a White wire and connects to the + coil. My thoughts are to disconnect the Pink/white and plain white wire now behind the glove box and replace it with a proper ballast resistor which I will locate by the coil and connect that to the + side of the coil. I have a Rover 2000 tc Ballast resistor for behind the dash on The 2000tc. Any thoughts or advice welcome.WP_20201116_10_19_06_Rich.jpg
 

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Scimitar1976 said:
, I expected something a bit thicker for a Ballast resistor or Eureka wire.
. Any thoughts or advice welcome.View attachment 17920
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The actual whole length of the pink/white wire is the resister so there is nothing discrete to see. You will need to run a separate white feed to the discrete Ballast you propose to fit near the coil from the joint behind the dash so the tacho is still connected
 
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"You will need to run a separate white feed to the discrete Ballast you propose to fit near the coil"

Yes, that's what I intended. The only problem i can see is there are two wires on the + side of the coil, both White/Yellow, one goes to the starter the other is connected to the ballast resistor/wire and I don't know which is which.
 
I'm going to cut the white wire that's connected to the pink/white (Ballast wire) now behind the drivers glove box, then cut the two wires on the + side of the coil and do a circuite test on the pink/white at glove box and each white/yellow at coil with a test meter. That will tell me which is connected to the ballast wire (pink/white). Then I just need to run a white wire to the white wire behind the glove box and connect them, then connect the other end to the white/yellow and female connector to the coil + as it was. Then cut the white wire at the point where my new ballast resistor is going to be fitted (by the coil) and two female connectors to connect to the ballast resistor.
 
Do reinstate the 12v shunt from the starter motor.

That's what I'm doing where I said "then connect the other end to the white/yellow and female connector to the coil + as it was".
 
All I'm doing is replacing the wire ballast with a ballast like this one I bought from Mark Grey BALLAST RESISTER INSTRUMENT PANEL [SH] and instead of putting it behind the dash where it's difficult to get to if you need to change it like I have to now, I'm putting it where it's easy to get at. All wiring will be set exactly as it was except for the resistor wire.
 
It does say in the description it's for the resistor behind the clocks. At the moment I can't run the car with the resistor wire in place so my choices are to do something about this resistor wire or wait for a miracle to happen. I don't think it will do any harm to replace the wire with this more up to date resistor. The Scimitars around the same year as my Rover had Eureka wires (Ballast resistor wire) in the harness and later years changed to the resistor block.
 
I may be getting confused but I have a ballast resistor behind my instrument panel which is connected up in conjunction with a rheostat and is used to dim my dashboard lights.
 
You could well be correct, it depends on what model you have I counted 12 wiring diagrams for the varying models and years. I am assuming that mine is the "Rover 2000 and 2200 TC models, RH steering-1973, 1974, 1975 models" diagram, and the white wire from the block of white cables after the fuse that runs to the ballast wire (pink) then connects to a white/yellow wire and on to the coil +where it's then into a female spade along with another white/yellow wire that runs to the starter motor. Diagram below shows 20 distributor, 33 tachometer, 34 coil, 40 ballast resistor. 21 starter motor. - side of coil runs to the tachometer and distributorWP_20201114_09_45_47_Rich.jpg
 
I'm not saying I am correct, but it may be worth a call to Mark Grey to check it's ok to connect your coil up to it.
 
"may be worth a call to Mark Grey to check it's ok to connect your coil up to it."

Just spoke to Mark Grey and he suggested I run an ordinary wire direct from the coil to the white wire that was behind the dash, (now behind the drivers glove box, where it's staying), and remove the pink/white wire from the circuit. The coil he sent me originally is for ignition apparently. Will post how I get on when the rain stops and I can get back over the garage.
 
"Give Paul a call at Get Smart. He's based in Usk"

Bit late with this reply Chris ,sorry, but I did speak with Paul last week and will be going up to see him and get his opinion of my car as soon as I can get it running properly.
Regards Terry H
 
Ran a new wire through the bulkhead this morning before I did anything. Tried to find the end of the pink/white ballast wire in the harness in the engine compartment but gave that up as the harness runs behind the servo, coil, brake master cylinder and wiper motor. So I just cut both wires on the +side of the coil and then cut the ballast wire in the cab and connected a circuit tester to the cab end of the ballast wire and tested each of the two wires in the engine bay to see which one shows a circuit. I was surprised to find a circuit as the ballast wire was supposed to be faulty. Connected my new wire to the starter wire with a female spade and connected it to the +coil. Connected the new wire the cab end to the original white wire and made safe with a sleeve. Thinking that all should now be good I tried starting the car and found there was no change, engine wouldn't run so ran a wire from battery to the +coil again and started the car, ran it for a few minutes like that and then turned the engine off by disconnecting the battery feed as turning the key and removing it doesn't stop the engine. Any ideas anyone.
 
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