Battery fastening

transexl

Member
Guten Abend zusammen!

I tend to forget to ask one thing:
How do you secure the battery in your Mk II - 3500s :?:

Last year I rebuilt the original spec battery box lid fasteners as far as I coild figure them out :oops:
(These are the ones with the long screws with hooks on the end that hook into the lugs welded to the battery box edges - I do hope you can figure out what I mean :? )

I think I got it quite right, although parts are sparse and drawings are not too clear in my opinion.
So, with a lot of money spent and quite a lot of work done, this solution does not work - at least not for me. I was told that it is important to fix the battery securely in case of accident, so I need to improve the setup as the screws do not even hold the lid properly :( ... .

What alternative can you think of?

I would love NOT to weld or alter anything too much and keep it simple.
I also would love the orignal lid to find its place on the new setup.

Any ideas or, even better, a proved solution?

DANKE!!!!

stefan
 
A square frame fits around the top of the battery to hold it in place, and that is held down by two nuts on the hook bolts. The cover then goes on and is held by the two plastic knobs. The short hook goes at the front, the long one at the rear.
 
HI, a word of caution don't tighten the nuts holding the battery frame too much, it puts too
much load on the flange of the battery box and it can break off. I bolt steel straps around
under the box to take the weight off the flange.

Colin
 
Guten Morgen zusammen

Another ongoing issue, I`m afraid.

In another thread - can not paste and copy properly here at work, apparently, sorry! - I found this pic:

JimmyBatterie.jpg
This does raise a few questions:

- Is this battery the right way round? Then our Jimmys must be wrong, as the terminals are toward the wing.

- Is the plus/forward terminal supposed to be as low? Looks like the cable cannot be attached without bending it downward quite a bit - like on Jimmy
(Although, it may be even worse on Jimmy, which makes height of battery (terminal) in general questionable... ).

- harveyP6 (Thank you!) says the following:
"Period batteries were flat topped so the bracket sat all around the edge without problems, the raised section on your battery prevents that".
How do I make the bracket work with todays batteries?

- How far into the car does the plus lead go, or how long is it?
Is the connector in the footwell the first interruption? How would I replace it?

Viele Grüße

stefan
 
The cable runs up over the arch then inside and down the very edge corner then along the very bottom of the side rail all the way to the front footwell in one piece. If you need to replace it electrical wholesalers will sell it by the metre but the thicker you get the higher the price and it isn't cheap.
 
There is a spacer the battery sits on in most cars. That raises the batter up enough to connect the terminals. Note that there is a small difference of a few millimetres in battery lengths which can stop the clamp bracket from fitting if you get the larger one and the terminals are on the side in the photo.
 
Hi Mike!

Have you forgotten a "wrong" or "right" in your last sentence? That raises suspense considerably! :D

Thanks for your reply!
I had spacers under my battery as well, but there must have been - and still must be! - one battery that does fit EXACTLY into the box, right? At least height-wise ... .

Now that you mention it: the ill-fitting of the clamp might be down to the batteries lenght or width. Have to check that thoroughly soon.

Hey-ho, this might be a rewarding job to do before we take off.

DANKE!!
 
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There are places that sell period batteries with external connections joining the cells together, correct height with no blocks of wood needed, terminals in the right place and will accept clamp.
Not cheap at over £100, fitted one some time ago to my mates p6.
Dont have full address to hand but the company is called CPC batteries in Chessington Surrey here in the U/K
Clive.
 
Aha!:cool:
Thank you very much!

Are they any good in terms of longeviety? How long ago did you fit your mates?

(I contactet CPC, by the way)
 
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Hi he managed to get about 4 years on that battery with correct usage and alternator charging as it should.
I had to sell his car for him shortly after that due to health reasons.
Regards.
Clive.
 
IMG_1162.jpg IMG_1164.jpg IMG_1165.jpg Hope these may help, the original and slightly corroded frame on my Series 1. the Series 1 has a plastic/fibre battery box which tends to split, so many years ago I replaced it with the Series 11 metal box. It is the retainer frame which I assume you need
 
Oh boy.
Jimmy has a plastic/fibre box :eek:

Thank you Clive, thank you Mike!

It has never occured to me that even the box might be a wrong item.
So all info and all parts concerning our setup might - or must! - be wrong... .

(Good pictures, Mike, as they show angles of terminals and cables etc.. DANKE!)
 
interesting thread. my series 2 p6b has a large tight for battery in . it has a plastic box not metal and NO metal retaining frame hmmm. look like i might have to start searching eBay for a year os so until one pops up? as its such a tight fitting battery anyway and a bit too tall for box.. I simply leave lid off. I find the two lid holding fixing a bit of a pain . more of a simple spring clip would have been perhaps better. bit late now company defunct and trying to keep a 40 year old car running has its issues!
 
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Guten Abend zusammen!

I tend to forget to ask one thing:
How do you secure the battery in your Mk II - 3500s :?:

Last year I rebuilt the original spec battery box lid fasteners as far as I coild figure them out :oops:
(These are the ones with the long screws with hooks on the end that hook into the lugs welded to the battery box edges - I do hope you can figure out what I mean :? )

I think I got it quite right, although parts are sparse and drawings are not too clear in my opinion.
So, with a lot of money spent and quite a lot of work done, this solution does not work - at least not for me. I was told that it is important to fix the battery securely in case of accident, so I need to improve the setup as the screws do not even hold the lid properly :( ... .

What alternative can you think of?

I would love NOT to weld or alter anything too much and keep it simple.
I also would love the orignal lid to find its place on the new setup.

Any ideas or, even better, a proved solution?

DANKE!!!!

stefan
interesting thread. my series 2 p6b has a large tight for battery in . it has a plastic box not metal and NO metal retaining frame hmmm. look like i might have to start searching eBay for a year os so until one pops up?
 
The battery boxes for the Australian market cars were all metal. There is a plastic coated metal frame that fits around the top of the battery, through which the hook rods are located. The only plastic fibre sections are the lid, the spacer that the batter sits upon within the metal box, and the section that sits around the battery, making contact with the lid once on.

Ron.
 
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