Well-Known Member
55 is the horn switch.
The connector block with your finger on it looks to be the one to the right of item 56 on the drawing with four purple wires. It looks like you need to get nearer the horns to find the bullet connector where the wires split L & R. Or work back from the horns to the first connector.


Well-Known Member
I just looked at mine, mainly to see if the car was still there :rolleyes:
The wires from the tooters go into the loom each side and up to the firewall, so no luck there.
The only thing I could suggest if you cannot find them at the dash end is to run a wire across the valance from the working to the non working horn.
And check out the earth on the non worker.

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
Thank-you gents for your help.

hmmm, I am presuming that connector isn't the one on your wiring diagram.
I don't have the wiring diagram for your car, so is 55 the horn switch?
55 is indeed the horn switch. I'm also pretty sure that the connector is the one between the switch & the horns - there are several other pin & socket connectors combined in that plug. However, two purple/black wires come out of the pin side & disappear into each side's loom, so it looks right.

And check out the earth on the non worker.
I checked the earth & it wasn't working, so problem solved! Just to clarify though, I've put an earth from the horn to the sidelight earth (via a bullet connector) which seems to be OK. Am I doing anything wrong here, such as overloading something?

A full-blown 2-tone horn is another of those details that makes the P6 experience what it is ;)

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
BOP has packed in twice recently, due to the pivot pin in the fuel pump having worked its way out:


This means that the actuating finger is disconnected from the cam lever resulting in no fuel :confused:. This pump doesn't seem to have any end plugs to stop the pin coming out, so after the second failure I've crimped the open ends a degree so that this shouldn't happen again.

Whilst I was at it, I replaced the diaphragm & seals but have not changed the valves as the ones in the kit are rather small:


Is this an 'S' thing, or for another reason? Is my pump from a different version of the engine? :hmm:


Well-Known Member
My pump did the same thing, but left the little cup on the side of the pump, to show that it had been there. Much swearing...this failure to proceed led to the blood nose she got while on a flatbed. While I was waiting for the insurance people to pick it up from home I plumbed in a Huco 133010 and tested that it ran.

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
On another matter; I've sourced most of the parts required to put Power Steering on BOP from another P6. The main part I now need is the bracket that attaches the pump at the front of the engine.

Does anyone have one kicking about they would sell me, please? This is the part per the parts catalogue:


This is probably a better view - of the one I fitted to 'Hazel':


Any help would be gratefully received :)

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
I have managed to get hold of a spare bracket from someone else's car & will get one made up as closely as possible:


Before I do, does anyone recognise it as that spare part they've had under their bench for 10 years not knowing what it was? It would be good to hear from you! ;)

I had BOP out the other day; no rain for weeks until then :rolleyes:


Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
BOP has been running around a bit over the last few months without much fuss:


It's still not quite a smooth as I think it should be & I've been meaning to give it a good service for a while (especially the carbs). However, a few days ago it started running roughly as if not firing on all cylinders, & I quickly diagnosed the same problem that my 2000, OCC had a while ago:


Most peculiar, especially with quite recently replaced distributor cap & leads....:hmm:

Anyway, I fixed that & it ran fine (for a few minutes :rolleyes:) until fuel started coming out of the LHS carb overflow:

IMG_0103.JPG now I've taken the carbs off & am awaiting a service/rebuild kit to come...


At least it's now getting its service :LOL:

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
Nearly finished the carb rebuild yesterday - at least got the car running again. I've now got to methodically go through the set up & tuning procedure per the OWM.

I took the opportunity to remove the rocker covers & replace the gaskets (with rubber ones) & give everything a good clean up & repaint, so the look of the engine is improving:


The paint's a little dark, but is very high temperature stuff, so should wear well.

I've changed all the breathers & pipework which was all worn & hard, & I've got a new genuine fuel filter, meaning I can relegate the non-gen one to the vent at the back of the engine ;)

The old gaskets were truly shocking & the top of the engine wasn't particularly clean:


A legacy of a previous owner I think, as I've been pretty religious with the oil changes (but not with the gaskets...:rolleyes:)


Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
When I was rebuilding the choke mechanisms in the carbs, I noticed that neither has any seals & wonder how this would have affected the running - probably a bit rich?

The service kits I bought had some seals in but a bit think for the job. I managed of sorts to get them in, but the mechanism is now a bit tight. Anyway, I can always change them with the carbs in situ, so no great issue.



Well-Known Member
Can I suggest that while you had the covers off it would have been a good time to remove the rocker assemblies and check the shafts for wear? My covers looked similar to yours - it ran a little tappety - and the shafts were badly worn - and if the shafts are worn, the rockers will also be worn. A set of after market rockers and shaft have removed all the noise and it runs very sweetly now. I also probed the oil delivery holes in the head and got some sludge.
I tried to find a description of how the choke works , but no luck. Dont understand how they dont leak fuel, with no seal between the moving shaft and the outer body.
I have just found this thread and read it through with great interest.
I have an early 3500S, Reg CHJ 805K, with a chassis no. under 1000. Sorry I am not in UK a the moment, so cannot give the number, but I remember it was built between Christmas and New Year, but not registered until into the new year. and was considered to be an early model.
Tobacco Leaf, and with many owners before I bought her. I have owner the car for nearly 20 yrs now, and looked after by Duncan Gill.
Hopefully the body is not as bad as BOP, nor he rear suspension.
Car is my only car, and daily driver, though recently I have been trapped overseas by Covid travel restrictions. When I am allowed back into UK, I will take some photos and post here, and confirm chassis numbers.

Phil Robson

Well-Known Member
I have now refitted BOP's carbs & have balanced them. I have also fitted a new set of HT leads and checked all the plugs, which are reasonably new.

I got the car running pretty well the other evening, but when I went to start it again after just a few minutes, it just clicked. I suspected a poor battery (4 years old) so bought a new one, but it's just the same...:(

I'm making sure there is sufficient charge in the new battery as when tested, it showed 12.63V which I thought was a bit low. I'll try it again tomorrow after a night of charging. I have rocked the car in gear, to see if it's the starter at fault that's stopped in a bad orientation, but no improvement.

High voltage stuff is about the only thing I don't like to tackle - has anyone got any ideas, please?