Richard B
Member
Hi All
So I'm fed up with low quality inhibitor switches and the faff of replacing every 6m to a year. A common fault seems to be failure of the crimped metal cylinder to grip on to the plastic top housing the spade connectors. The last 2 have fallen apart in my hands as I unscrewed them from the transmission (see photo). Anyway, after having a close look i could see that the switch mechanism works fine. Hence, I have reassembled and glued the plastic top on to the metal cylinder with araldite and further secured by drilling 2 small pilot holes and then screwing in 2 x M1.7 (5mm) self tapping screws covered in threadlock (see other photo). Left it gently squeezed in a vice overnight and now seems to function fine. Feels very robust with no play between the plastic top and the metal cylinder. You need to make sure the screws are not long enough to short out the pins holding the spade connectors to the outer metal casing.... easily checked with a multimeter. I've no idea how long this will last but feels like a solid solution.
I offer it up to others frustrated with low quality inhibitor switches..... I have replaced at least 4!
Cheers
Richard
So I'm fed up with low quality inhibitor switches and the faff of replacing every 6m to a year. A common fault seems to be failure of the crimped metal cylinder to grip on to the plastic top housing the spade connectors. The last 2 have fallen apart in my hands as I unscrewed them from the transmission (see photo). Anyway, after having a close look i could see that the switch mechanism works fine. Hence, I have reassembled and glued the plastic top on to the metal cylinder with araldite and further secured by drilling 2 small pilot holes and then screwing in 2 x M1.7 (5mm) self tapping screws covered in threadlock (see other photo). Left it gently squeezed in a vice overnight and now seems to function fine. Feels very robust with no play between the plastic top and the metal cylinder. You need to make sure the screws are not long enough to short out the pins holding the spade connectors to the outer metal casing.... easily checked with a multimeter. I've no idea how long this will last but feels like a solid solution.
I offer it up to others frustrated with low quality inhibitor switches..... I have replaced at least 4!
Cheers
Richard