BW35 Valve Body interchangability.

I dont seem to be able to get into top irrespective of throttle position nor the level of revs. It's almost like driving a two speed. As mentioned the shift from 1-2 is actually quite quick and not slushy as you'd expect.

Is there a way of un-sticking the governor? I assume its again getting back underneath it and taking the box apart?
 
Is there a way of un-sticking the governor? I assume its again getting back underneath it and taking the box apart?

It's possible it might free up with a bit more use, if not it can be removed without removing the box, just the box needs supporting and the rear mounting and tailshaft housing need to come off.
 
It's quite bizarre its stuck over night. It was running perfectly last night. Would anything like additives or the likes help? perhaps a further fluid change?
 
The governor can be removed, and then dismantled and cleaned on the bench. Hopefully that will be the problem.
 
Surely I just put the know to be working governor in instead? Though it is the latter, non rebuild able type most likely.
 
Surely I just put the know to be working governor in instead? Though it is the latter, non rebuild able type most likely.

As far as I remember that should be a straight swap, and if my memory works twice in a row then the later governors come apart as well.
 
Probably correct. There are a few things in the WM that suggest they are throw items that ultimately aren't now in 2019
 
If my memory serves me correctly, back in the late 1990s, the person that rebuilt my transmission temporarily fitted a Ford valve body. I took the Rover back a few days later and he refitted the Rover valve body. I can't remember why he said this was necessary. The shift speeds between the valve bodies were different.

Ron.
 
Well, I've managed to replace the governor and snorkel type filter... I then took it out for a spin. For the most part it runs very well, but the 303 Valve body with 7FU internals have made for some odd shift speeds.
The box seems to want to jump into third fairly quickly while cold, then when warm holds the gears in relation to revs quite well. It does, however, feel like a very different box. I'll do a few more miles in it before I decide if I need to get back under it.
 
Hi, Are you sure the valve body is for a RV8? The valve body is for the engines power and torque characteristics as evidenced by ron's experience with the Ford valve body giving different change points. As Harvey say's different selector patterns are available as well.

Colin
 
The valve body came out of a 303 box from a UK built car. The 7FU box which is currently fitted, was originally in the car in question which is a 1970 3500.

the only thing I've noticed is its a bit of a sharper change on the 1/2 and reverse is a bit if a thud.
 
I don't think the issue is with the valve body swap, I would try and set the throttle valve cable correctly, or check that it is.
Also ensure your engine idle speed is set between 600-650 RPM before you start and check all the linkage relating to throttle set up including the spindle bush are as they should be.
 
Update on this. I changed over the Governor and manage to regain 3rd gear.

I decided, however, to go back and fit a self adjusting servo and the original valve block with relative kickdown cam assembly and cable. There were a few details that differed from the workshop manual, firstly, the rear pump valve was located to the front of the valve block and there was no shim set on the downshift valve (part no 12 on the exploded diagramme in the WM)

When driving on the new valve block, cable cam and servo it appears to hold first for much, much longer. I've heard the original 3500s were considered a bit more spritely off the mark, is kickdown cam profile responsible for this? the change from 2 to 3 appear effectively as normal.

I'm not overly convinced that the 1 to 2 set up is quite correct. It seems to hold 1st until about 4000rpm on a medium throttle but the power fades off aroud 2500rpm as if the box is slipping? I'm not sure whether this is actually the case though.

Thoughts and considerations welcome..
 
If it's a 303 valve block it shouldn't have a rear pump check valve, they were deleted. The shim you mention is, iI think the locator/stop for the throttle valve. The cams are different, and are designed to work with specific valve blocks, but they often get switched over with few obvious problems. Holding onto FIRST until 4000rpm seems very high to me. Slip will show as the RPM increasing without a similar increase in roadspeed.
 
Slip in FIRST is most likely a failing front clutch. Neither of the servos are involved in FIRST gear, only the front clutch and one way clutch in "D", and the front clutch and the rear band in "1"
 
I can now actually revise that statement. When cold, the box behaves as you'd expect. When hot, however, it starts to jump out of all gears and once up to speed doesn't really engage drive often. When at idle at the traffic lights, you can feel the car engaging drive then disengaging, then re-engaging.

This isn't a fluid issue? Or rather lack of?
 
Low fluid level can cause delayed engagement, and no engagement at all. This will affect the engagement of forward and reverse drive equally. It can also cause it to drop out of gear.
 
Back
Top