clock problems

ButterFingers

Active Member
hi there,
Today I fitted another clock to the rover p6b. I had been assured that this was a working one, but alas it did not get a tic tock up, dead as a dodo. So now I have 2 dead circular clocks and ask is there any body that can repair these old 12 volt clocks? it would just be nice to have it working...
Peter
 
Are these the ones that go with the strip speedo, or the ones in the circular dial dash? If it’s the latter, I repaired mine myself. There’s a soldered joint in the wire to the solenoid that winds the clock. When the mechanism sticks, the solder melts to act like a fuse so the solenoid doesn’t burn out. Blow all the dust out of the innards to clean it, but don’t douse the mechanism in oil. Re-solder the failed joint and see if the clock works then. Mine did, at least for a while, but it’s stopped again, so I think it needs re-doing.
 
That's the usual problem, another thing is to clean the switch contact. These clocks are pretty easy to fix, somewhere on the site here is reference to the repair of them. Probably the thread is 8 years old or more.
 
I think it was in the reference material of the old site but I cant remember how to link to that, probably Rich knows how.
 
I managed to fix mine by googling repairing the clock. can't recall where I found instructions. possibly even an old thread on here. however I do recall it involved desoldering a small wire (fuse-link?) afterwards to works perfectly . can hear it wind. clockwork mechanism now and again. as its essentially a powered wind up mechanical clock at heart.
 
thank you all for the helpful advice, I will have a go at repairing the clock that I removed, as I now have 2, one non working in the car and the other not working, out of the car...:rolleyes:
Peter
 
Great to have this resource. Removed my clock today, Open circuit winder coil on an ohms test with multimeter.
Removed rear plastic cover via 3 x nuts. Found the small fuse wire link seperated. Short this with a small clip, measure coil resistance, at about 12 ohms with clock unwound.
12 volt present at purple wire. soldered in a fine 2 amp fuse wire strand to renew the link. Dressed the contact "points" with a fine needle file, Can of compressed air to clean the mech of dust. Connect up temporarily, maximum 120mA DC pulsed when it rewinds. All good. Meguiars PlasticX on the instruments clear plastic cover and all is like new again, with a working clock!
Good chance to check all dash bulbs then as well, all good, just handbrake switch must not be working.... add to the list
 
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Great to have this resource. Removed my clock today, Open circuit winder coil on an ohms test with multimeter.
Removed rear plastic cover via 3 x nuts. Found the small fuse wire link seperated. Short this with a small clip, measure coil resistance, at about 12 ohms with clock unwound.
12 volt present at purple wire. soldered in a fine 2 amp fuse wire strand to renew the link. Dressed the contact "points" with a fine needle file, Can of compressed air to clean the mech of dust. Connect up temporarily, maximum 120mA DC pulsed when it rewinds. All good. Meguiars PlasticX on the instruments clear plastic cover and all is like new again, with a working clock!
Good chance to check all dash bulbs then as well, all good, just handbrake switch must not be working.... add to the list

Always satisfying getting broken P6 stuff going again-well done
 
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