Coolant Capacity?

dmcsweeney

Active Member
Hi all,

I recently changed the water pump on my neighbour's series 1 V8. At the time I refilled the cooling system with water as I had no antifreeze to hand. He since drained the rad (detaching the bottom hose), flushed and refilled the system. However, it took only 4 litres, I though the system held about 9 litres? It's been a while since I did my own so can't remember what it took. If there's air in the system what's the best way to clear it?

Regards,
Dave
 
Hi, I would guess that the 4 litres has only filled the rad and as you say the block is full of air.
That would happen if possibly the thermostat doesn't have a jiggle pin and the outlet in the
carb tower is blocked.

Colin
 
Thanks Colin. I'll check both. Would firing it up with a length of hose off tower, held above the water level allow me to bleed it?
 
Hi, no because if the outlet is blocked it's not letting the air out. Try running a small drill or
driving a small screwdriver through it. You could try taking the hose off the outlet to confirm
whether its the outlet or the hose collapsed.

Colin
 
Hello,
Reviving this thread since I have the very same symptom when draining the P6 2000:
I have opened both the radiator plug underneath and the engine tap on the right side, and when refilling, at 4 liters, it overflows.
I would be interested to know the outcome of above story and also a picture of where that jiggle pin should be located so I can check too.
Thanks!
 
That’s for a v8. Don’t need to do that on a 4 pot. You’ve got an air lock. Run engine until stat opens with rad cap off.keep revs at around 1500 rpm topping up coolant to just under rad filler. Put cap on. Let off revs. They normally push a drop out at first when you use car but will find its own level and stop if everything is in order.
 
The original poster was asking about re filling a V8, your 2000 will be different.
However, a jiggle pin if fitted is located in the outer rim of a thermostat, when a thermostat is fitted in a position in which the water flow through it is horizontal the jiggle pin must be positioned at the highest point. If the thermostat is fitted so the water flow is vertical then it does not matter where the pin is located.
Hope that makes sense.
Your coolant capacity will be different from a V8.
 
First question is how much coolant came out when you drained it? 4 litres is not enough to fill the system from empty.

There’s a bypass on the 4cyl in front of the thermostat housing. This should allow any air in the block to reach the top of the system, irrespective of what the thermostat is doing. I’d check that’s not blocked first. The hole in it is quite small, so can silt up.

If that doesn’t cure the problem, then there’s the possibility that the block is sludged up. Have you ever replaced the side plates and cleaned the block out? A useful indicator of this is to open the tap on the side of the block. If you don’t get anything from here, then the block could be sludged up. The sludge builds up at the bottom first, therefore blocking the drain.

Personally, I wouldn’t like to run it if you think you’re only filling the radiator, and you’re not confident there’s anything in the block. If the thermostat isn’t submerged, it won’t open, irrespective of how hot the rest of the car is getting. Without coolant around the cylinders, you risk doing a lot of damage. Squeezing the top and bottom hoses can help with shifting air locks.

The heater won’t self bleed if this has been drained at the same time as the rest of the system. This needs bleeding from the top heater hose when the rest of the system is bled.
 
I have always found on a 4 cyl P6 that after a complete drain of coolant, the initial refill quantity would be significantly less. However, after a short run, they always get rid of any air in the system, and you can top them up properly. Also i have found that if you take your time and don't rush the filling, you minimise the size of the air pockets.
 
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