Distributor fitting

I have now removed the carbs but still a no go. The float was slightly out on one so I have corrected that. It has a ballast resistor that isn't connected up, is that needed? There is also a wire off the starting motor that's not connected and another by the coil (same wire) I assume this was not needed after it was converted
 
I have now removed the carbs but still a no go. The float was slightly out on one so I have corrected that. It has a ballast resistor that isn't connected up, is that needed? There is also a wire off the starting motor that's not connected and another by the coil (same wire) I assume this was not needed after it was converted

Hi, The stray wires need to be connected at the starter and coil end because that is the ballast resistor bypass wire to ensure there's power to the coil when the engine is cranking over. If the engine is turning over slowly that won't help because it will drop the voltage down going through the ballast resistor. Check and clean the battery power connections, in the footwell post and on the starter and the earth strap around the engine mount.

Colin
 
So the ballast resistor needs connecting then? I wasnt sure whether it was needed with the v8 as that would have been fit to it when it had a 1.8. It was never connected when I brought the car
I have cleaned all the earths up but not checked the battery power in the footwell
 

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That ballast needs dedicated plugs, if you don't have them and the loom, it will be difficult to wire up, which is probably why it is disconnected.
Don't worry about it if you have a 12v coil and a good spark.

I still think ignition timing is your issue.

The pistons on the carbs rise with engine vacuum, and air and fuel is admitted on demand.
What carbs do you have ? HS6 or HIF6 ?
Do you have a manual choke ?

Try cranking and get an assistant to spray easy start in both carbs at the same time, if it still wont start buy a box of Swan Vestas !
 
That ballast needs dedicated plugs, if you don't have them and the loom, it will be difficult to wire up, which is probably why it is disconnected.
Don't worry about it if you have a 12v coil and a good spark.

I still think ignition timing is your issue.

The pistons on the carbs rise with engine vacuum, and air and fuel is admitted on demand.
What carbs do you have ? HS6 or HIF6 ?
Do you have a manual choke ?

Try cranking and get an assistant to spray easy start in both carbs at the same time, if it still wont start buy a box of Swan Vestas !
I th
 
OK
With HIF6 if the cold start, or choke, or enrichment device - call it whatever you like, is not working the car wont start.
Get a trigger spray bottle and put some fuel in it, remove the carb elbows and have an assistant spray some fuel into the carbs while you crank it.
If no go, then you will have to remove the carbs and see if the float chambers have fuel in them, this means taking the bottom off.
The square section O ring will swell and not go back, I have successfully cut them with a Stanley blade and super glued together as a temporary repair.
If you have fuel in the float chambers, and a spark at the right time it should run.
You keep mentioning you have established TDC on number 1, but you have not confirmed that it is on its compression stroke.
You need to confirm this and point the rotor arm at number 1 post on the cap whilst the crank is at 10 degrees before TDC on that correct stroke.
 
OK
With HIF6 if the cold start, or choke, or enrichment device - call it whatever you like, is not working the car wont start.
Get a trigger spray bottle and put some fuel in it, remove the carb elbows and have an assistant spray some fuel into the carbs while you crank it.
If no go, then you will have to remove the carbs and see if the float chambers have fuel in them, this means taking the bottom off.
The square section O ring will swell and not go back, I have successfully cut them with a Stanley blade and super glued together as a temporary repair.
If you have fuel in the float chambers, and a spark at the right time it should run.
You keep mentioning you have established TDC on number 1, but you have not confirmed that it is on its compression stroke.
You need to confirm this and point the rotor arm at number 1 post on the cap whilst the crank is at 10 degrees before TDC on that correct stroke.
I have tdc on the compression stroke. It was all set at 10 degrees before tdc.
I will look at the choke in a little more detail. I have it locked on atm as I pulled the cable through into the cab last week lol. There is fuel in the chambers as I've had them off previously and there was fuel there. I will try the spray bottle as well and see if it works
 
A slightly easier way to see if there is fuel in the carb is to remove the suction chamber and air slide, get a length of washer tubing and push it tight onto the jet hole that the needle came out of...…….. and suck !
If you get fuel in the tubing and it tastes good you are on a winner.
 
Check the leads are in the right order on the cap , going to the right cylinders.
Google a diagram of lead and firing order layout for a Rover.
 
I think I will look at the choke first as I know there's fuel there and it's getting to the plugs. If that works I will try the spray bottle. Is there a way of testing the choke? Or a better way
 
The enrichment device is a rotary valve from memory and has perishable rubbers in it, a kit is available from Burlen fuels to rebuild them, but at the moment you just want to start the damn thing.
I inject raw fuel into my HS8 to start mine, as I have no choke.
Raise the pistons, chock the throttle open and squirt about 4 jets of fuel into each carb, then let everthing down again and crank and spray fuel into the carbs.
It should at least fire and run momentarily if you are close.
 
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