DOHC Daily Driver.

unstable load

Well-Known Member
If you are still struggling to remove the pins from your selector AND if the rubber bit is
not going to be reused, mix up a 50:50 mix of ATF and Laquer thinners and dump it in there.
It makes a great anti-sieze/unstcker stuff.
unstable load said:
If you are still struggling to remove the pins from your selector AND if the rubber bit is
not going to be reused, mix up a 50:50 mix of ATF and Laquer thinners and dump it in there.
It makes a great anti-sieze/unstcker stuff.
Cheers for the tip John. Fortunately I managed to remove it without causing any damage to either part......just as well as I reckon replacements would be hard to find.
I have replaced the slightly worn throttle pedal grommet, the original one had gone all gooey.

I have also made up the parts necessary to use the Sierra's throttle cable, these consist of a new lever that is set up to pull the cable and an abutment.

Here it is in situ

The abutment will be mounted just in the mouth of the tunnel.
I have also roughed out the clutch slave cylinder mounting bracket for the gearbox. This was a bit awkward to work out as the alignment had to be right and I had to allow access to the oil level plug.

I am a little worried that I have enough travel on the slave cylinder to operate the Ford clutch, I have positioned the slave in the best position I can in an attempt to maximize the available travel.
Unfortunately, I can only test its operation with the engine and box in the car. That test will be the first thing that I do the moment the engine goes back in the hole!!!!! If I have done my calculations right I
should have a working clutch.....heres hoping!!!!!



Well-Known Member

Ballast behind the dash board, quite obviously pink.

In the engine bay just behind the bumper mounts. You can see the white coloured wires in your picture. They tend to have a heat shrink on the end and with probably be faded due to oil etc.
Thanks mate, I had a good look at that wire you pointed out and you are spot on. I will run a new switched live from the ignition switch.
Here is the throttle cable abutment that I have made up and now fitted. I will be removing the original end from the cable once the engine is back in so that I can set the length up.

The clutch slave cylinder bracket is now finished, I welded on two M10 nuts to the back side, the cylinder fits perfectly and lines up very well with the push rod hole in the bell housing.

It is now in paint..

One little issue that reared its ugly head was that my intended push rod contact area was on a sloping part of the clutch release arm. Fortunately this was relatively easy to remedy.

I cut out a wedge shaped section from each side.

The arm was then tapped straight and welded back up.

I have also obtained a suitable flexi hose to connect up the clutch hydraulics. I will bleed the system out tomorrow and if I get the push rod finished off I may well be ready to fit the engine and test out the clutch......I really hope that I have got my sums right, there is very little margin for error between the operating travels of the cylinder and the arm. Obviously the hydraulic ratio between the two cylinders is compatable as they are the original parts, it is the relationship between the Rover and the Ford parts that is the worry. I measured the travel needed to clear the clutch at 11mm, this was taken where the arm protrudes from the bell housing. I have 12.5mm cylinder movement available........too close. I have moved the push rod some 20 odd MM inwards towards the pivot, this will increase the mechanical ratio and hopfully increase the arms travel relative to that of the cylinder. I'm guessing that, that will be revealed tomorrow.
One option that I have is that if the mechanical ratio does turn out to be too low I may be able to alter the hydraulic ratio to compensate, I could find and fit a larger bore master or a smaller bore slave. Is the V8 master cylinder the same as the four pot item and does anyone have the relative bore sizes?

Hi I got a good few hours on the Rover today and got quite a lot done. :D
The first job was to fit the clutch pipe, this consists of the original pipe that has been rerouted and had the end changed to suit a new flexi hose. I have clipped it up to the top of the transmission tunnel. I drilled the clutch arm to allow for the new push rod, as the arm is quite hard I blunted several of my drills :evil:
I had a colleague shape me a thrust block from some steel rod, the end is domed so as to allow for a smooth action.
The actual push rod was fashioned from a long M8 bolt. this has the added benefit of allowing some adjustment in service, adjustment is effected by a self locking nut.

The rod is sized to set the slave cylinder in its mid stroke position to allow for any wear in the clutch, it would be easy to make it longer and end up with no clearance and therefore slip once the disc starts to wear down. Once the rod was done the cylinder was connected up to the rest of the hydraulics and bled out.......fortunately there were no leaks. :D

Before the engine and box could go back in I had to attend to the spigot on the output shaft.

As the box is set up for a Guibo joint the spigot is overly long so as to locate in the centre of the rubber coupling, this would foul the centre spider of a normal UJ so I shortened it by 20mm..

The last job before fitting the engine was to fit the remote linkage into the tunnel, there is no way this would fit with the gearbox in situ so it must be fitted before and attatched to the box as it is lifted up onto the back mounting. With this little lot done and the engine hanging in the hole the clutch cylinder was bolted up and the clutch didn't clear!!! It turned out that I had not got all the air out and once that was done the clutch did clear ok but the biting point was quite low, adjusting the pedal stop gave me the extra travel needed for a decent feel to the pedal.
That is another major hurdle cleared so now I can forge ahead with the rest of the installation, unfortunately by that point it was dinner time and I had to call it a day but all things being good I hope to make good progress next week.

just read all this up-to-date! Good work, very inspiring. Makes me want to look more at finding a 5 speed box or overdrive for my 2200TC, reluctant/in-capable to change engine though! Look forward to more progress/seeing reports on how it drives/handles, will the weigh on the front be much different?
Cheers mate, The extra gear will be a massive will a gear lever that does not tizz at high speed!! I,d say that the Ford engine is lighter that the old unit so it will be interesting if it does alter the handling at all.
I have been busy with other stuff but there has been some progress on this project. The back mount for the gearbox is all fitted, as is the gear change remote, the lever comes up nicely through the original hole. All of the under bonnet sensors are connected up, I have the inside wiring to complete but once I crack on with that it shouldn't take too long to complete. I also now have my modified prop shaft...

You can see the difference between the new and original flanges here, the new one is quite a bit bigger.

The prop went up and fits like a glove, I just need to get some M12 bolts to attatch it to the output flange on the gearbox. I think I can see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel now......................

It has been a while since I last posted, I gave the project a wide berth for a couple of weeks as other jobs and interests took over. I finally got back on it about a
week or so ago. A colleague fabricated me a nice swirl pot, this has over 1.5 litres of fuel capacity so should be plenty big enough for a mild engine like the DOHC. It will be
mounted at the side of the torque tube.

I have also mounted up the pump and filter. I opted to use a Ford Focus filter as they are the same size as the pump, so like the pump can be retained using an ignition coil bracket :D

The pump has been mounted using rubber insulators in order to reduce the noise transmitted into the car, the pump and filter are mounted under the rear seat on the drivers side. The wiring for the pump follows the existing loom down the OS, under the carpet. I hope to get the fuel pipes made up soon, the other thing I still need to sort is the radiator......I still need to find a suitable unit!

Cracking project there Dan, just shows what can be done without spending a fortune when you don't need too and also really great to see another modified P6 on this forum :D , look forward to more posts! Great work indeed. 8) cheers Damian.
Thanks for the replies, The Rovers original radiator would almost definitely have the capacity to cool the new engine but the stubs are on the wrong sides, I refuse to use overly long hoses and cross them over! An Omega rad also has the stubs in the wrong places :cry: I have hopfully found a suitable unit.........I will find out when it arrives if it is any good!!
I am on a budget and I do not have unlimited funds for this project, I wish I did as I could have an alloy radiator made to fit.
I have been busy though, the fuel system has now been plumbed in. The original plastic pipes, although in perfect condition have been stripped out to make way for copper replacements, these follow the original routing almost exactly, I will let some pictures do the talking....

Here is the swirl pot nestled safely up between the torque tube and lower arm.

The pump and filter..

I formed some short question mark shaped pipes to connect the swirl pot to the tank unit. The upper vent connection from the swirl pot is comnnected to the higher of the two fuel outlets in the tank unit, this will hopfully allow the pot to self bleed as the fuel system is refilled, the lower one has the added benefit of a filter screen fitted to keep out the debris, that said, I may still install a pre filter upstream of the pump for added piece of mind.

A shot forward showing the new rigid fuel pipes.

This project is really getting there now!
Hi, The radiator issue has now been sorted in that I have finally found one that fits the bill perfectly. It is from a BMW Mini and not only is the core the correct size but the pipe stubs are in the correct positions and most importantly the bottom hose connection is right angled so it clears the cross member :D
The brand new unit was very reasonably priced on ebay.

I still need to fabricate the upper mountings but the lower mount has been sorted. I have also completed all the plumbing with the exception of the expansion tank, the upper heater pipe is a part metal affair to hopfully protect it from the manifold heat.

I am so pleased to have cleared this hurdle, not too long now!!

Hi, thanks for the replies. I am really hoping that it drives as well as I intend!
Those fuel pipes are not as close to the brake disc as that image makes them look, here is an alternative view...

As can be seen, there is nearly two inches of clearance.

sdibbers said:
What a great read Dan! I feel like I've learnt a lot from reading through your posts. Can't wait to see her in action.
Thanks a lot mate!
Progress has been somewhat slow recently as work has been so busy. I have done a few bits though. The radiator now has top mountings and I have sourced an appropriately sized expansion tank, I do need to fabricate a decent mounting bracket for it now though.
The radiator top mounts are simple brackets made from 3mm steel plate bolted to a pair of bobbin mounts that support the radiator.

I had this rad fan available, I think it is from a Ford escort, it is slightly narrower than the mounting points on the rad so I made a couple of spacers to fill the gap. It fitted up to the mounts perfectly but I was unhappy with the distance it sat from the core.

Basically it takes up too much space and looks crap! My mate suggested buying a Mini fan.........something I have to admit I never considered! The fan turned up today and is soooooo much better, unfortunately it has arrived with its lugs snapped off :evil:
The ebay seller responded within a few minutes of me telling him about the damage with a promise of a replacement so it is not a total loss.
Look at the difference, it is clipped in on the OS and just resting on the NS due to the missing lugs.

It is a far better fit, even though it is broken!!
The engine is a runner now and the cooling system works perfectly, the engine ran well enough but a little rich. It got it's first bit of attention today when I removed and cleaned the dirty throttle valve, I have done this on nearly every EFI car I have owned and I have never been disappointed with the results.

As can be seen, it was a little bit coked up..

There should be an air gap around the disc....

I spent around 20 minutes cleaning it with brake cleaner, the results are clear to see.

With a clean throttle fitted, the engine sounds much happier and is running leaner. This is a relatively basic open loop management system which has no oxygen sensor to feed back how it is running so the basic set up needs to be good before an attempt is made to adjust the mixture using the CO potentiometer. Once I have finished the installation I will have to give it a full service and reset the base idle and mixture using a Ford STAR tester and a CO meter.