Door Rubbers

Hi, anyone got tips/advice on re-fitting door rubbers and wing rubbers???? Seems a bit of a fiddle, warm them up, Fairy Liquid.....?

Steve. :D :)
 
There is a special tool that looks like a small blunt pizza wheel that you roll against the edge to push it into the channel (rover part no. 600358). You can use a screwdriver to push it in bit by bit though, best to pick one with a rounded off blade so it doesn't go through the rubber. Try to avoid chipping the paint too as the channels are not an easy rust repair.
 
Hi,

Yes, I used the screwdriver method, took ages to do the door rubber but quite quick on the rear wing rubber. Replacing the rubber channel retaining strip is a bugger, especially around the D Post repair area, I used the lead filled channel method and gently bent/bashed it into shape, it's a real pain but doesn't look too bad.
 
I've tried that, didn't really work they have a recess in the edge, they are designed to roll a round piece into a slot, you need to push compress the rubber across the pinch piece to get it under the lip. idea is to put one side in then push with the wheel or screwdriver so the lip goes over the edge and then comes out in the groove as you move along. the factory wheel is the inverse door type, it has a normal rounded edge. You could modify one though. there is a wire loop device that is available for Minis and other cars that may actually work
 
Hi Steve

I have literally just replaced all 4 door seals on my 1972 2000SC.

I have made a tool to fit the rubbers into the channels. I used Red Rubber Grease to aid insertion. Made a lot of difference.

Took me about an hour to do all 4. I am going to have to take the drivers door seal off again as I need to replace the channel as it has really gone rusty.

If you need a pic of the tool I will add one should you need it. The tool only took about 15 minutes to make. I have used it numerous times on Minstrel.

Always here if you need any answers.

All the best.
 
I have made a tool to fit the rubbers into the channels. I used Red Rubber Grease to aid insertion. Made a lot of difference.

This is a useful thread. Thanks for the advice on the red rubber grease, Stephen. I need to replace all of mine after the panels are repainted and am not exactly relishing the thought! What does your custom tool look like? I'm interested in picking up one of those special "pizza wheel" style tools which I have seen before.
 
This is a useful thread. Thanks for the advice on the red rubber grease, Stephen. I need to replace all of mine after the panels are repainted and am not exactly relishing the thought! What does your custom tool look like? I'm interested in picking up one of those special "pizza wheel" style tools which I have seen before.
Make the tool yourself, Steve. I used a piece of 13mm x 2mm x 8" long stainless steel tubing and m6 x 13mm stainless steel washer for the 'wheel'. I drilled through the tubing and cut a slot wide enough and deep enough to take the washer so it will 'roll' and used a blind river to attach the washer into the groove. I hammered the blind rivet flat on the outsides to make it easier to use and also so it won't scratch the paint work.

For some reason I cannot attach an mp4 video for you on the post. Are you on Facebook? I can send it to you on there? Look for me as Steve Ward. My profile picture is of my wife and I.
 
Hi Steve.

A couple of photos of my seal tool that may help you.

I am now going to have fun as I have to remove the seal on the driver's door to get a profile of the bends in the channel so I can fabricate the bends on the new channel.

All the best.

Steve
 

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Oh I see! That's really helpful. Thanks.

It'll be a while before I'm refitting rubber, but I haven't been looking forward to it!

Cheers
Michael
 
Hi,

Yes, I used the screwdriver method, took ages to do the door rubber but quite quick on the rear wing rubber. Replacing the rubber channel retaining strip is a bugger, especially around the D Post repair area, I used the lead filled channel method and gently bent/bashed it into shape, it's a real pain but doesn't look too bad.
I’m doing this job now. Whats the lead filled channel method?
 
Melt some lead into the channel, then when you bend it to shape, it won't kink. Then when it fits, melt the lead again the get it out of the channel.
 
There is a special tool that looks like a small blunt pizza wheel that you roll against the edge to push it into the channel (rover part no. 600358). You can use a screwdriver to push it in bit by bit though, best to pick one with a rounded off blade so it doesn't go through the rubber. Try to avoid chipping the paint too as the channels are not an easy rust repair.
I have just had to replace some of the channel on the driver's door as there was some serious corrosion in places. Got 6 x 24" channel lengths from Wins at £6 ea. To bend them I used a Dremel with a small cutting disc. I cut grooves to bend the channel into shape. Worked great. Job done satisfactorily. I primed and sprayed them before I riveted them in place. The rubber seal fitted in well. Well happy with result.

I had added a reply to Steve how I made my own "setting tool" which works perfectly well.
 
I recently fitted my rear wing rubbers and experienced a similar frustration. What I found worked well was a liberal application of rubber grease and a hard plastic door card removal tool. Far less aggressive than a screw driver.

A5626545.jpg
 
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