Dutch Rover V8 "4600" - (former 2200TC topic)

When I sorted mine on the 3500S I swapped the gearlever over for one like Thijs has already, metal on metal. I also replaced the selector finger and the bushes on the remote arm and the gearchange was transformed. Thijs, I reckon if you replace the selector finger and the remote arm bushes you'll find your gear selection is much improved.

That said, you might as well sort it all out properly whilst you're in there.

harveyp6 said:
better still remove the selector rod and have someone make a bush up out of the the same material they use for poly bushes.

Thus speaks the voice of reason. You know it makes sense :D

Dave
 
Don't forget to check for movement on the selector striker lever as well, because that will be worn if it has over-ridden the selectors on the box, as ISTR you said earlier that it had.
 
Dave3066 said:
harveyp6 said:
Chances are it needs the bush as detailed below.http://www.rover-classics.co.uk/images/ ... gs_jpg.htm

The bush is 90622363

I didn't think that bush was available anywhere.....???

Dave


It looks like WinsInternational have had them remanufactured.

From their website:

" - Gearstick lower support bush - re-manufactured in Polyurethane (fits in remote shaft eye

socket to support metal sphere tip of gearstick) £17.50"
 
Here is a picture of my 2200TC linkage after refurb on the bench ready to go back in.

IMG-20130202-00055_zpsbb4c7ca1.jpg


I have the short gear lever with lower plastic bush. I made up a spring loaded nylon block to rub against the shaft to help with rattle.
 
Looks like a neat job, I like it! I'm ordering the bush from WinsInternational since they're a couple of pounds cheaper than Wadhams. Should have my car up and running somewhere next week I guess! :)
 
The bush is a nice snug fit, shifts much better now! That problem got sorted out relatively easy... :)

Noticed now that the bottom end of my exhaust manifold is a beat leaky, guessing it got some micro cracks there. A bit of a bummer since I fitted a supposedly refurbished one not too long ago... Will need to look into that soon.

Apart from that I, finally, got my lovely Rover some new rubbers! Four new tyres to be fitted next weekend, along with new alignment en cleaning up the rims. :D
 
Glad you got your rattling gear stick problem sorted Thins. Also, like your picture :).
 
Right!

Some news on my Rover.

Got a new MOT on october 2nd, which lasts for two years. A very nice thing indeed! After that I decided to remove the tire of the top of my trunk, to see what it looks like...

1380157_534281066661304_1130568001_n.jpg


It looks great I think! This meant I had to start looking for a badge to fill up the mounting spot for the tire. A part which can be quite expensive as you all know... It had been a couple of weeks of looking around, when Andries messaged me about a bunch of Rover parts on a dutch website. One of the parts was a complete trunk badge... An e-mail was sent quickly and I got the badge, for the hefty sum of €15 (or £12,67). Both the chrome and plastic are in very decent shape, so thanks yet again Andries, haha! :D

 
Seem to have a bit of a problem with my brakes... Wanted to bleed them, but as soon as I started doing that some problems occured! There's absolutely no pressure at all on the brake pedal, and every time you push it down air bubbles appear in the brakefluid reservoir. Looks like a leak somewhere in the master cylinder, right...? There are nog leaks at the callipers or the brake lines leading there.

 
Did you have brakes before you decided to bleed them ? Have you loosened off a nipple ? It does sound like a seal in the master cylinder has gone
 
I had a similar problem with the clutch slave. Had a good clutch but a slight leak on slave. Fitted new slave but then couldn't bleed. Seals in master had failed.
 
What can happen with brake master cylinders is that because when in use the seal only travels a short distance down the bore, when you bleed the piston goes full travel, over the part of the cylinder bore which is never used, and that can be enough to damage a worn seal beyond repair.
 
harveyp6 said:
What can happen with brake master cylinders is that because when in use the seal only travels a short distance down the bore, when you bleed the piston goes full travel, over the part of the cylinder bore which is never used, and that can be enough to damage a worn seal beyond repair.

This sounds like the perfect explanation! Had brakes before I started bleeding them, they were a bit spungy but they worked. At some point during the bleeding all the pressure dissapeared suddenly. :)

The next question may sound a bit stupid, but which one of these two is the master cylinder? :oops: The big one, or the small one? Or is it some kind of odd system that uses two? Thanks a lot by they way, I'm learning so much of this forum! :D
 
Thijs Leuven said:
The next question may sound a bit stupid, but which one of these two is the master cylinder? :oops: The big one, or the small one?

DSC_1151.jpg


The brake master is the one on the left in that picture. Think about how the pedals are when you're inside the car, the clutch is on the left of the brake, so looking in the opposite direction as you are when looking under the bonnet, then the brake will be on the left of the clutch. Clutch will always only have one outlet as well, but your brake cylinder has 3, but that's not a definitive way of telling as the single line braking systems only have one outlet.
 
Ah I see, that makes sense. :) I'll take it apart and have a good look at it, see if I want to rebuild it or replace it entirely. Thanks guys, I'll take some pictures and post them here.
 
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