Engine Removal - 3500S

vaultsman

vaultsman

Well-Known Member
I've never had cause before to pull a P6B's engine, but the time has come.

The WM, and the usual method no doubt, is to remove the engine and box together and split them on the floor. Is this the best way to go, or is it possible/advisable to leave the (LT77) box in situ?

Any other tips welcome! :)
 
Hi Stan,

I have only removed one V8 engine from a P6B, and that was just a few years ago. The workshop manual shows raising the car at the rear, whereas we raised it at the front. The reason for the change was the Range Rover business that removed my Rover's original engine and transmission did it this way. We followed suit and the combination came out fine, so that was most pleasing. I suspect that it may well be easier to take your engine and Lt77 out together and then separate them on the floor, rather than the alternative. Although having said that, the 1987 Range Rover manual provides the procedure for removing the engine whilst leaving the transmission within the vehicle.

Ron.
 
Hi Stan.
Unless you want to remove the gearbox as well I have always removed just the engine.
A couple of the bellhousing bolts are a bit fiddly but not impossible.
The reason the manual says jack up rear is to remove engine and gearbox together.
Clive.
 
You can remove either the engine/box together, or the engine alone, the former is more work, but the problem with the latter, particularly with the fine spline on the LT77 first motion shaft, is lining up the first motion shaft through the centre plate when you put it back. I have one to do that way, and I'm going to put the engine back in as a short motor to give some more wiggle room, and assmble the top end once it's in there.
 
I took them both out together, just me and an engine crane so easily done. I did have the back of the car on ramps though, and this did make it easier.

Don't forget the engine earth strap :oops:

Richard
 
This is how i did mine. My friend made me a frame from scaffolding. He has put a v8 in a p5 like this years ago. Used a block and tackle and moved the car backwards as we lifted the engine. No ramps etc. Put it back in the same way. Bit tight but worked fine. Just watch the starter solenoid! :)341.jpg 343.jpg
 
The LT77 is tighter to clear the top of the trans tunnel than the BW35. Raising the rear of the car as much as you can will be a big help.
 
harveyp6 said:
but the problem with the latter, particularly with the fine spline on the LT77 first motion shaft, is lining up the first motion shaft through the centre plate when you put it back.
Click to expand...
Back in the early 90s I fitted my LT77 by myself to the engine and I can freely and happily attest that it made the history books with a few fruity additions to the Profanosaurus that day.
 
I'm more used to doing 2000 engines, but I prefer doing it in one go. That way, everything gets cleaned before it goes back in, and you know it's lined up correctly on the floor, before you put it back in place.
 
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