Engine swap. Best way?

heapy

Member
Hello i have a 1970 2000sc auto P6. I am going to to swap engines over and going to put a healthier 2.2 in.
Can anyone tell me what is the easiest way.
1 To remove the auto box and engine as one complete unit, split, swap and replace back into vehicle.
2 Or just remove the engine leaving autobox in situ (this is my prefered idea) if so, can you release the torque converter and leave on the box through the starter motor aperture when removed etc?
Have done various other engines but not a P6 engine swap before so if there any other helpful tips, they are greatfully received unless this all just a normal swap.
Many thanks.
 
You can just remove the engine, but the converter often gets stuck in the back of the crank, and comes out with the engine, even if you've undone it from the flexplate, and that can damage the front pump seal on the gearbox, and it dumps transmission fluid over the floor. I'd normally remove just the engine on a manual, but with an auto I'd remove the engine and box together and split them on the floor.

Check the flexplate for cracks while it's out, and renew the spigot bush in the crank.
 
PS. Is the engine that's going in from an auto? There are a lot of things that need doing properly to avoid flexplate failure.
 
I did read that the 2200's were more prone to break flex plates than the 2000's. I have had 2 flex plate failures. Now I carry a spare with me.

What is different about the v8's that they never seem to have that problem? Were the flex plates better made, or does the additional vibration from a 4 cylinder motor induce more fatigue stress?
 
I'm quite sure the combination of 4cyl pulses and the much higher engine speed did it. Does it, I should say.

Yours
Vern
 
What is different about the v8's that they never seem to have that problem? Were the flex plates better made,

The V8 flexplate is a far more robust item than the one fitted to the 4 pots.

If you have had multiple failure then the chances are that's a problem with how the flexplates have been fitted. I only had one repeat failure in all the ones I did, and that was a result of how the car was driven away from cold, at high rpm on engagement of reverse, so that the car didn't roll forwards going backwards up a steep drive.
 
The 2200 should have the gearbox sump guard/strengthener which the 2000 didn't have, although if I had the strengthener available when doing a 2000 flexplate I'd fit one if the customer was prepared to pay for it.
I'd say I probably did as many 2000 as 2200 flexplates, but tbh, at the time I wasn't counting.
 
The V8 flexplate is a far more robust item than the one fitted to the 4 pots.

If you have had multiple failure then the chances are that's a problem with how the flexplates have been fitted. I only had one repeat failure in all the ones I did, and that was a result of how the car was driven away from cold, at high rpm on engagement of reverse, so that the car didn't roll forwards going backwards up a steep drive.

The last time it happened was 1997. Previous time was 1995. The 95 drive plate was the original one. The gearbox and transmission had been apart for a rebuild in 1993. In 95 an auto transmission specialist replaced it. There was ovality in the bolt holes indicating that the converter bolts were never torqued properly when it broke again in 97. The mechanic I selected to fix in 1997 was the one I managed to coast into. He seemed to have got the job done right! He was not a specialist, but he was competent!
 
PS. Is the engine that's going in from an auto? There are a lot of things that need doing properly to avoid flexplate failure.
Hiya Harvey, no the engine is from a manual 2.2sc.
its all i could find..
what extra difficulties is this going to present then? :/
thanks.
 
the engine is from a manual 2.2sc.
its all i could find..
what extra difficulties is this going to present then? :/

You will have to remove the manual spigot bush and replace it with an auto one, but that's actually easier than getting an auto one out to change it. Other than that there's nothing else to change on the engine other than changing the flywheel for the flexplate, spacer, and washer. Make sure you fit the washer the correct way around, and when the engine is fitted, make sure the dowel bolts are fitted correctly, and that the engine sump is forced backwards against the engine bearer plate* as tightly as possible. Slacken the sump to do this if needs be.

*ISTR that the engine bearer plate might be different between manual and auto, so it's worth changing that as well, even though in practice I don't think the differences cause problems, but if they do it's a lot of work to change it once it's all back in. I don't remember ever changing them.
 
You might be right about the backing plate Harvey. It's been a few years since I did mine but I have a feeling the auto plate has an extra cutout in the starter hole to allow access to the torque converter bolts.
 
You might be right about the backing plate Harvey. It's been a few years since I did mine but I have a feeling the auto plate has an extra cutout in the starter hole to allow access to the torque converter bolts.

That's my thinking as well, either that or there's a hole to lock the flexplate, but seeing as you can access the converter bolts through the starter hole, and I've never had to lock the flexplate anyway (and you can't when it's broken) then it's irrelevant. I just can't remember. Worth changing just in case.
 
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