Engine temperature ?

I have the opposite, my gauge rarely leaves the white, the only time I saw it go through green was when the rear heater hose let go :)
 
harveyp6 said:
Check the engine temperature with an independent thermometer.
Check the ignition timing, running retarded can cause overheating.
I know you say the rad is a replacement, but check it for cold spots.
Make sure that the electric fans are drawing the air in the correct direction.
Click to expand...
I used one of these infra red temp readers and pointed it at various places but the highest temp I read was 88C at the temp sender. That never really convinced me if it was overheating or not.
I have advanced the timing by ear and it is now running somewhat cooler so I think that was the problem.
The rad is a brand new triple core replacement and has only done about 500 miles since fitted and no cold spots detected.
Fans checked and blades fitted the right way round and direction correct. The fan temp sender is adjustable and it is set to come on pretty early.

So I think timing has been the problem all along.

Thanks for the help on here
 
There are 2 problems being discussed here; overheating and Vapourisation; they can be connected ,but not necessarily. My 3500S suffered acute vaporisation, but not overheating. In my ignorance, I changed the rad, looking to cure vaporisation, to no avail. Clearing the carb. tower bypass cured the vaporisation.
Have you checked that the radiator is full? Bleed alll air out wih cap removed and running at fast tick-over with thermostat open.. Keep the radiator full. Easiest way is to fit a header tank and fill the rad. via that.
Before I had the header tank fitted, I would lose water in normal running, and would overheat in traffic if the rad had to been kept absolutely full.
Since then, no overheating, not even last summer, and no vaporisation..
My ignition timing has been set by a professional engine tuner, so I assume it is OK.
Rover V8's are in use all over the world, and should cope with all conditions.
I have seen the rad. bleed procedure written out somewhere, maybe the Rover workshop manual
 
Well it looks like my next mod will be to fit a header tank.
Has anyone any suggestions as to which header tank fits well and also which cap to use. Does the header tank need a 15psi cap as well?
 
I got a period correct brass header tank off a series landrover and bolted it on the inner wing just behind the brake booster- plenty of room to fit.
I placed it higher than the radiator cap and swapped the radiator cap to the header tank and bought a blanking cap from an auto shop for the radiator..
No more dropped fluid on the garage floor and an even engine temp.
 
Mine has a semi translucent header tank (whitish plastic), which enables you to see the level - 1/4 full cold, 2/3 full hot. Behind the booster.
 
jp928 said:
Mine has a semi translucent header tank (whitish plastic), which enables you to see the level - 1/4 full cold, 2/3 full hot. Behind the booster.
Click to expand...

Mine too. The water level when cold sits on the bottom of the indent, it's a bit high here as I have been driving it. I do like the brass ones, but this is very useful as you can easily see if there are any issues.

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My temp sender reads under 300 ohms with gauge in middle of white sector. Was 1550 cold.
 
Well just to draw a line under this thread, today I fitted an MGB expansion tank and went for a run
Motorway and town driving and the temperature guage never moved above the mid point of the green sector, so I am going to call that SORTED.
Thanks for all the help on here
 
Good to hear! I trust you filled the actual radiator when it was cold - it should stay that way now the extra volume when hot has somewhere to go, and return.
 
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