Getting back on the road
- Thread starter sdibbers
- Start date
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Quick update. I managed to get the tensioner hose rebuilt yesterday at a hydraulic shop. 3/16th PTFE braided hose crimped onto the original fittings. It looks pretty close to standard. The crimps are a little 'off label' for the hose but I made up a test rig with a grease gun and got about 300psi without issues before fitting so I think we will be safe. The nice thing was the guy at the hydraulic hose shop wouldn't even charge me as it was "too small" job to worry about!
Once fitted I ran the engine up to temp and went for a short test drive. The new insulation, gaskets on the flaps of the heater, repaired crack in the exhaust manifold, new camshaft and proper gaps (and timing) on the valve train have transformed the car. She's so much quieter, much, much smoother at idle. Next on the list will be an oil change and trying out slightly richer needles at the top end as she feels lean on acceleration at the moment, I have BBZ's to fit as she has BBY's still.
Here's a quick video of her at idle
https://youtu.be/PAhBOMoClnc
Once fitted I ran the engine up to temp and went for a short test drive. The new insulation, gaskets on the flaps of the heater, repaired crack in the exhaust manifold, new camshaft and proper gaps (and timing) on the valve train have transformed the car. She's so much quieter, much, much smoother at idle. Next on the list will be an oil change and trying out slightly richer needles at the top end as she feels lean on acceleration at the moment, I have BBZ's to fit as she has BBY's still.
Here's a quick video of her at idle
https://youtu.be/PAhBOMoClnc
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sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Well, a few more bits to finish things off today. Changed the oil as I wanted a clean start after all the engine work. I replaced the temp sender with a new one from Mark Gray. The heater fan only worked on the low setting so I pulled the center console, found that the rivet that that connects the wire and the contact for the high setting switch had come loose so soldered the wire directly to the contact. High fan power is back!
Took the car for a longer test drive and she feels great! Quiet at 70, idle so smooth that I thought the engine had stalled coasting to a stop light and hot toasty heat I can control with the heater too. Best of all no oil leaks, and no engine smells in the cabin now. All in all I'm a very happy bunny.
Took the car for a longer test drive and she feels great! Quiet at 70, idle so smooth that I thought the engine had stalled coasting to a stop light and hot toasty heat I can control with the heater too. Best of all no oil leaks, and no engine smells in the cabin now. All in all I'm a very happy bunny.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Well, I fitted BBZ needles as she felt a little flat at higher speeds. Made a huge difference to performance, I don't feel like I have to push so hard on the highway now. I should keep an eye open for a used fuel/air tailpipe sensor on fleabay just to see how she does at speed for mixture. Had a scary moment the other day when out. Huge amount of steam from the exhaust. I was convinced that it was a headgasket or cracked block or head. Then I looked at everyone else and realized the -12c temps and humidity was making everyone do the same. My wife has described me as an automotive hypochondriac and she may have a point 
unstable load
Well-Known Member
Nothing wrong with that.sdibbers said:My wife has described me as an automotive hypochondriac and she may have a point
Demetris
Well-Known Member
rockdemon said:
I think that this is something different, i am for example always mechanically sympathetic, but after a big let down / repair i turn temporarily into a real hypochondriac, always suspicious that i "hear noises" or "something does not feel right", despite that my TC has never really let me stranded.
However after a few days of regular use the faith and confidence was always restored.
Now, into six months of very occasional use (just for the shake of it to be honest) i have mixed feelings...
Steven, why didn't you try the 2200 TC needles straight away? Or did you?
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Exactly how I feel Demetris. More miles equal more confidence.
As for the needles, the carbs on put on came from a 2200TC. I assumed that they were BBYs hence me going for the next richest BBZ. However, when I checked the ones I took out they were stamped BAK! No wonder it felt lean. I think I'll order the BBYs and see how she feels. Although at the moment she pulls like a train.
As for the needles, the carbs on put on came from a 2200TC. I assumed that they were BBYs hence me going for the next richest BBZ. However, when I checked the ones I took out they were stamped BAK! No wonder it felt lean. I think I'll order the BBYs and see how she feels. Although at the moment she pulls like a train.
Demetris
Well-Known Member
If the car feels right, then keep it as it is.
I think that the standard 2200 TC are BBX, so with the BBZ you aren't far off, after all modern fuels require richer needles.
Mine's a 2 litre and i also kept the BBX ones off the 2200, albeit with a more free flowing exhaust and air filters. Fuel consumption at sane speeds is very reasonable and it does pass easily the CO and HC control each year.
I think that the standard 2200 TC are BBX, so with the BBZ you aren't far off, after all modern fuels require richer needles.
Mine's a 2 litre and i also kept the BBX ones off the 2200, albeit with a more free flowing exhaust and air filters. Fuel consumption at sane speeds is very reasonable and it does pass easily the CO and HC control each year.
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sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Yes, with the 2200 engine BBZ seems fine. After finding totally wrong needle in there I wonder if the BBX would be fine and a little more economical and probably fine too. She is a lot more rewarding to drive now though.
I did find that the BAK needles were meant for the 3500 so I wonder if the previous owner of the car the carbs were fitted to got comfused. Seeing as they arrived fitted with LPG gas rings for a 1.25" carb they seemed to not be the most sympathetic owners.
I did find that the BAK needles were meant for the 3500 so I wonder if the previous owner of the car the carbs were fitted to got comfused. Seeing as they arrived fitted with LPG gas rings for a 1.25" carb they seemed to not be the most sympathetic owners.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Managed a couple of good runs to work before the salt hit the roads last week. Now that the needles are tuned correctly I think you are right Demitris and I should stay with the BBZ needles, not too rich at idle and nice and torquey at speed too. Fuel consumption seemed better too, I'm certainly not having to put my foot down as hard any more. We got 32" (81cm) of snow yesterday, so Beryl will stay tucked up in the garage until the slat has been washed away.
List for the next steps over the coming year include:
-Fit Becker Europa II radio with aux in socket (nice 1971 model radio with separate amp I will mount above the passenger glove box.
-Look at the small rust patches and weld in repairs.
-Pull interior to fit modern sound proofing and a new carpet after saving some cash.
-Enjoy punting around in her between the above
List for the next steps over the coming year include:
-Fit Becker Europa II radio with aux in socket (nice 1971 model radio with separate amp I will mount above the passenger glove box.
-Look at the small rust patches and weld in repairs.
-Pull interior to fit modern sound proofing and a new carpet after saving some cash.
-Enjoy punting around in her between the above
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Finally had some time to work on the car now the snow has melted a little and it's unseasonably warm out.
I've had a 1970's Becker Europa II Stereo radio for a good while. I'd managed to get it services by Becker USA and buy a cable that connects a 3.5mm input jack to the aux connector. Today I finally got it installed. I mad a bracket to hold the external amp above the passenger glove box, found a unused wire for positive feed when the ignition is on. All gone well and it looks great on the console. I temporarily connected some speakers as I've run out of time to run new speaker cables to the rear parcel shelf. Sounds great!
Turned the power off. Drove the car back into the garage and turned the power on the radio again. It was then I noticed the choke light comes on with it! The choke switch has been missing on Beryl since I've owned her, I guess I've found the word at least! I need to look for a new feed I guess
I've had a 1970's Becker Europa II Stereo radio for a good while. I'd managed to get it services by Becker USA and buy a cable that connects a 3.5mm input jack to the aux connector. Today I finally got it installed. I mad a bracket to hold the external amp above the passenger glove box, found a unused wire for positive feed when the ignition is on. All gone well and it looks great on the console. I temporarily connected some speakers as I've run out of time to run new speaker cables to the rear parcel shelf. Sounds great!
Turned the power off. Drove the car back into the garage and turned the power on the radio again. It was then I noticed the choke light comes on with it! The choke switch has been missing on Beryl since I've owned her, I guess I've found the word at least! I need to look for a new feed I guess
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sdibbers
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Managed to find a dash top rail on eBay recently. The one Beryl had delaminated the foam from the steel resulting in the indicator and warning lights being hidden. Not to mention a wobbly lower edge. The new rail was much nicer except for a small hole on the top right side. I used a 3M vinyl repair kit to fill and some vinyl spray dye to get a nice even satin finish. Fitted it's really lifted the appearance of the dash board. Only things letting the interior down now are the carpets and the furflex. Saving needed for the carpet for sure.
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sdibbers
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So, I did try BBX needles this weekend. It runs ok, but nowhere near the bottom end torque of the BBZ. Fuel consumption with the BBZs was about 20 UK MPG so I will keep the BBXs for now and see what I get with them. I have to admit I'm missing that little extra uumph you get with the richer setup.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
It's taken a while but I've finally gotten around to replacing the bushes on the rear suspension. I managed to do the left side yesterday and the right today. I have a cheap Harbor Freight 12 ton press in the basement (doesn't everybody?) and that was invaluable.
Work went something like this:
1] Pull arm requiring new bushes
3] Take hacksaw to out steel tube left in arm and attack with BFH and cold chisel after slitting the tube
4] File small lead in on one edge of new bush. First one I tried without the lead in would hang up on one edge and not go in straight. I noticed the old bushed had the chamfer from new. Once I had on on the new ones much easier.
5] Apply a smear of graphite grease on inside of arm tube receiving new bush
6] Press in new bush with the help of giant washers, 3/8" steel plate, wheel hub sockets as spacers.
8] Rinse and repeat 7 more times!
Took her out for a quick test drive afterwards. Huge improvement in ride and handling! Actually scary how bad some of the bushes were (they looked fine at first glance in a lot of cases).
Next I'm eyeing the idea of the thicker ARB up front that's been discussed on the forum right now. Need to make a case for a bigger purchase to 'er indoors first
Pics below:
Work went something like this:
1] Pull arm requiring new bushes
3] Take hacksaw to out steel tube left in arm and attack with BFH and cold chisel after slitting the tube
4] File small lead in on one edge of new bush. First one I tried without the lead in would hang up on one edge and not go in straight. I noticed the old bushed had the chamfer from new. Once I had on on the new ones much easier.
5] Apply a smear of graphite grease on inside of arm tube receiving new bush
6] Press in new bush with the help of giant washers, 3/8" steel plate, wheel hub sockets as spacers.
8] Rinse and repeat 7 more times!
Took her out for a quick test drive afterwards. Huge improvement in ride and handling! Actually scary how bad some of the bushes were (they looked fine at first glance in a lot of cases).
Next I'm eyeing the idea of the thicker ARB up front that's been discussed on the forum right now. Need to make a case for a bigger purchase to 'er indoors first
Pics below:
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Ended up having to rerun from a drive yesterday. Started missing at higher speeds. Certainly felt electrical as opposed to fuel related. Tried swapping out a plug lead but to no avail. This morning decided to replace the spark plugs. One had shaken loose a while ago. Only a couple of turns so no thread damage, but I do wander if the vibration had damaged it. So I replaced the spark plugs and the condenser. Seemed to have fixed the issue. Weird how it came from nowhere.
sdibbers
Well-Known Member
Just a quick update. Had a misfire at speed rear its ugly head a week or so back. Found the condenser was on its way out. I decided to try a simple electronic ignition conversion. In the past of tried a Pertronix igniter system but had problems with it shorting out the spark inside the dissy cap. I reverted to points after getting the dissy rebuilt and recurred to suit the 2200 engine capacity it now has. I went for the accuspark system. Took less than 30 minutes to fit. Smoother idle and power delivery straight away, I can recommend it so far. I'll keep the points and condenser in the boot as I've read some reviews stating reliability might be an issue. I'll keep you posted of any problems.