Head studs

jp928

Well-Known Member
#1
Couple of questions:- can you get the heads off in car with studs fitted?
Somewhere I have read that ARP studs dont use all of the block thread depth, but somebody makes studs that do, but cant find that reference now. JE? John Eales?
Anybody ?
thanks
 

TokyoP6B

Active Member
#2
Nowt wrong with ARP studs; and re-usable multiple times unlike the stock bolts which stretch, I don’t see why there’d be an issue with removing the heads, lifting these off over the studs, in a P6B. Doubt you’d experience corrosion issues either if that’s your worry. I’ve used ARP nuts/bolts/studs and never had an issue, their stuff is so good there are Fake ARP sets being sold ( ! ) so be careful of the source…

-G
 

jp928

Well-Known Member
#3
Good to hear , thanks. Now that I re-read Hammill, he speaks of main cap studs by John Eales being a bit special, in that they are longer, and end in a cone that will bottom in the tapped block hole, for improved contact and grip. Must have confused that with head studs.
Did you use std head torque for heads on studs?
 

TokyoP6B

Active Member
#4
Good to hear , thanks. Now that I re-read Hammill, he speaks of main cap studs by John Eales being a bit special, in that they are longer, and end in a cone that will bottom in the tapped block hole, for improved contact and grip. Must have confused that with head studs.
Did you use std head torque for heads on studs?
The ARP head studs themselves are inserted with an Allen key and then only hand-tight; once the heads/gaskets are on torque the nuts up to Std. Rover spec. When I had my Rover V8 replaced it was with a cross bolted 3.9 Discovery engine, studs for the mains but retained bolts for the side fasteners, the bolts through the side of the block a “regular” P6 won’t have… using stud sets is definitely worth considering if you’ve got an engine build happening

-Graham
 
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