Heater Box seals

C

Colin T

New Member
Hi, I'm working om Kitty my series one P6 which has suffered a very rotten heater box. I have been lucky on ebay to find a very good later box which just needs a freshen up with paint. The original had that awful foam which had turned to dust, however the new one has a very good rubber one.
What I'm not sure about is there supposed to be any seal betwwn the box and the horizontal part of the bulkhead? the rubber seal is excellent and will seal the real vertical but there was nothing left but dust if there ever was on on the horizontal.
Any advice would be great
 
There is a seal for the horizontal connection to the bulkhead. Several folks will provide one if you search for it on the web.
 
The lower seal showed up in post, very pleased.
Does anyone make the rubber elbow that connects internally with the drain tubes?
Mine are a bit ropy.
 
Colin T said:
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Does anyone make the rubber elbow that connects internally with the drain tubes?
Mine are a bit ropy.
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I was unable to find any when I rebuild my heater box a couple of years ago. I ended up 3D printing replacements. The 3D printer .stl file is posted on the forum in a thread titled "Heater box "elbows""
 
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Thanks! Seeing as you have had your heater completely apart, do you recall the angle of the INSIDE cabin lever for the top flap for either closed or open please? Splines on mine are gone, and i have a way of locking the cast arm to the shaft, but dont know the angle it should be set to.
 
jp928 said:
Thanks! Seeing as you have had your heater completely apart, do you recall the angle of the INSIDE cabin lever for the top flap for either closed or open please? Splines on mine are gone, and i have a way of locking the cast arm to the shaft, but dont know the angle it should be set to.
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The best I can do on an angle is the photo I previously shared on the other heater thread. You can see the relative angles of the levers at each end of the shaft. There is a reasonable amount of flexibility on the placement of the levers on this shaft with the two adjustments available and the inclusion of the "lost motion" linkage.
 
Is this any help?

This is with the top flap open and the fan on full, so the control lever in the car at its lowest position.

Levers.jpg
 
Hi all,

Took my heater box out on the weekend - which needed new foam seals etc, and have managed to strip the splines on the top rod (opens the flapper door that leads to the panel in front of the windscreen). Have people come up with a way of securing the rods to the cast aluminium pieces (I'm guessing they are aluminium/pot metal etc?)

I have a spare heater box here but the rods etc are pretty rusty, whereas mine still look like new. I was hoping to somehow fix the mechanism on mine rather than raid the rusty spare for the linkage etc.

Also - anyone got a better solution than the starlock washers used on other parts of the box?
 
if you go to my thread here P6B S Project Car
, post 324 covers how I fixed an arm that had stripped the shaft splines(?)- remove the shaft from the heater (hope that can be done?), you will see the arm end is smaller diameter where it sticks through the arm. I turned the shaft down in dia ~5mm longer so that the smaller dia would stick through the arm more , cut a thread on the small dia for a nut I had (M4?). Reassemble, lock the arm to the shaft with a nut, pref nyloc. Hard part is finding the correct alignment of the arm with respect to its operating thing at the other end. Mine was busted on the lever that opened the top input flap.
 
Thanks all. I just had a look at your thread @jp928 and I think I can see what’s happened with mine. The rod has backed itself out of the splines in the cast linkage part. There’s barely a few mm of the rod poking through.

I’ll give it a disassemble and see what’s happened. Thread on the end/nut and some loctite sounds like a winner.
 
Thats lucky for you - my splines were copiously stripped. Put some time into getting the alignment correct. I found refitting the heater harder than the removal.
 
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