Help needed!

[thebaldyman]

Having just bought my dads 66 P6 2000 from him I have an issue with a loud rattling noise from the top end. When I got it it wouldn't fire up but turned over fine with no unusual noises. I decided to replace the whole ignition system from Simonbbc. The car fired up first time but made a god awful loud rattle which increased with the engine speed :shock: I switched it straight off and got the old man down.

I drove the car into my garage around 14 months ago and it's been sat since. Before fitting the new ignition I did a compression check and had 150 across all four. It still has 150 across all four. The noise is not there when you turn the car over with the coil feed disconnected just when it runs? I'm hoping it ain't goosed. I'm figuring valve problem of some sort? Anyone got any ideas please

 

[rockdemon]

Does the noise sound like it comes from the valve train? Could it be something like tappets needing adjusting properly?

 

[herts2000]

Try un bolting the carb and look in the inlet it may be the carb sandwich plates tube has come loose? If so throw it away and put the carb back on make sure there's no metal particals sitting in there first though.

 

[roverdriver]

As the car has sat for some time, it might be that there is no oil pressure. The 'upside-down' oil filter should be one with a non-drain valve, but that might be faulty and the oil has run out of it, and maybe the pump can't re-build pressure.

Dane.

 

[thebaldyman]

Thanks for the replays. I have taken the rocker cover off to take a look. Nothing seems to be out of place at first glance? Turning the engine over by hand everything seems to open and close with no visible abnormal wear to the cam lobes. I attempted to check clearances and if I have got it right the starting at the timing chain working back to the bulkhead I am assuming it goes cylinder 1 inlet then exhaust, cylinder 2 inlet then exhaust etc.Is this right? If it is then it seems that the clearances are wrong in that some are tight and some loose in that he inlets are around 0.1 to 0.15mm and the exhausts around 0.3mm ( sorry i need to get some imperial feeler gauges as I've always owned aircooled VW's). When I was driving the car and when I drove it into the garage it did not make any abnormal noises or sound tappety and was not down on power. Could something come adrift like a collet or broken like a spring? I would have thought a dodgy valve would show in the compression tests as noticeably lower than the rest??

I have a couple of mates coming round Tuesday to take a look. I'm hoping things ain't to bad as I've just bought it. If I need to adjust the valve clearances is here anywhere I can get my hands on any shims or any conversions charts from mm to inches to help calculate what I need.

Cheers. Jamie

 

[herts2000]

Like I said above mate in bolt the carb ;-)

 

[j_radcliffe]

Have you inspected the carb heat shield. They can split apart, then make a metallic rattling sound. I fixed mine with a pop rivet gun.

You should in any case adjust the valve clearances. They are too tight, and you will end up burning valves. You can check condition of the valve springs when you have the tappets off.

Dropped valve inserts can case rattles. However you should also see a compression loss on that cylinder, and a much greater than normal valve clearance. So they are most likely okay. To keep them that way adjust your valve clearance so the valves do not get too hot.

James.

 

[Adam Birch]

If this is an SC, do as Dave (Herts 2000) has said!!!

There is a metal ring that separates from the carb spacer, and will rattle in the inlet manifold making the most awful noise, and it will break with the rattling and it will make its way into the engine!!!

Pictures to show.

 

[Dangermouse]

Timing chains ?