How do I open the bootlid

Good news. It's open. As a last resort I decided that brute force was necessary, so I decided to use my trusty rubber mallet. A couple of good smacks and it sprang open. I have now greased the lock and open and closed it a few times with no trouble and a good squirt of WD on the creaky hinges.

I have also found a Bonnet release cable among my spare bits, I think it was for a Volvo Amazon, works a treat.

Thanks everybody for all your help and suggestions, very much appreciated.

Stand by, I might need you again. Bryan.
 
Hope you didn't encounter any unpleasant surprises in the boot!
If you don't drive it, the door locks will seize next. ;)
 
The Rovering Member said:
Looks tidy enough. Did you get it close to estimate?
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I don't know what the estimate was, I just thought it was worth a shot. I did'nt want a perfect one, I wanted something to tinker with and improve upon.
I've got an appointment with a local body shop next week to get the paintwork up to scratch but not a full respray, I want it to be as original as possible.
 
Mine plays up from time to time....To resolve I go clockwise as far as it will go, then anticlockwise as far as it will go.....Also worth pressing down on the lid as you fiddle....you may have already done this, however it works for me. Good luck!
 
Welcome.

I looked at your car on the auction results before reaching page 2 and seeing that you'd already solved the problem. My initial thought, on seeing that they had photos of the boot open, was that there can't be much wrong with it. A 2200sc auto is a relatively rare, and under-rated car and it looks quite reasonable in the photos. There are a few bits of bodywork that you're obviously already aware of but the interior looks very good, with the revcounter / housing being an unusual option on the 2200sc. The 2200 was much better suited to the auto than the earlier 2000 and the advantage with them is that they tend to have been bought by owners who were happy to 'potter' and drive the car gently.

I prefer using a dry ptfe lubricant (wd40 do one), rather than normal wd40, on locks and a good clean might help.
 
Speedfreak said:
Mine plays up from time to time....To resolve I go clockwise as far as it will go, then anticlockwise as far as it will go.....Also worth pressing down on the lid as you fiddle....you may have already done this, however it works for me. Good luck!
Click to expand...
It's working fine now, I think greasing the mechanism has made the difference. I do sometimes use a silicone spray as that dries up quite quickly, I will look for the PTFE though.
 
tonys said:
Welcome.

I looked at your car on the auction results before reaching page 2 and seeing that you'd already solved the problem. My initial thought, on seeing that they had photos of the boot open, was that there can't be much wrong with it. A 2200sc auto is a relatively rare, and under-rated car and it looks quite reasonable in the photos. There are a few bits of bodywork that you're obviously already aware of but the interior looks very good, with the revcounter / housing being an unusual option on the 2200sc. The 2200 was much better suited to the auto than the earlier 2000 and the advantage with them is that they tend to have been bought by owners who were happy to 'potter' and drive the car gently.

I prefer using a dry ptfe lubricant (wd40 do one), rather than normal wd40, on locks and a good clean might help.
Click to expand...
I'm hoping to get it into the body shop shortly. I looked up the MOT history and it has not been tested since 2018. I still like it done annually so that is going to be a priority for me. Going back as far as 2006 it has had a corrosion problem on the sills. I would have had that fixed straight away. So you can see it has had a lot of owners who have neglected it but that stops now with me.
 
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