.....while wandering the 'net, and thought it was interesting enough to copy to here. (Note: I say interesting, not necessarily accurate or useful).
"Early P6's had the pressed steel 'shark's teeth' grill whereas the Series2 has the 'eggbox' grill
This came in a number of variants - the 2000 single carb, the twin carb version,the single carb automatic and the 2200 single carb. Initially the P6 was intended to be powered by a jet engine; hence the layout of the engine bay and steering arm that runs along the rear engine bulkead with an idler on the opposite side to the steering box. Contrary to common misconception, the jet engine was never intended to 'blow' the car along - it would have powered the rear wheels as per normal. It was abandoned on the grounds of cost and conventional 4 cylinder engines fitted.
By todays standards the single carb 2000cc engine won't exactly set the world alight but for the price these cars can still be purchased, they're worth having.
The 2000 automatic can best be described as a slug. Nice car, but ... Plus when old (like they are now..) the gearbox and engine mountain rubbers could become 'tired' and soft, allowing the auto box to move and rock - causing the flexi plate (instead of a flywheel) that connects engine to gearbox to crack then break.
For the home mechanic repair means removing the engine first to get at the flexi plate. The easy way to do it is to lift the car on a hoist to get at the gearbox, though not everyone has a hydraulic 4-post ramp at home. Trying to remove the auto transmission from the engine bellhousing using ordinary diy drive-on ramps is a no-no unless you particularly enjoy hassle and ruing the day you were born. Take the engine out first. It can be done in 45 minutes. A quick check is to reach underneath the car and see if you can rock the auto box from side to side -if so, things need tightening before trouble occurs.
The 2000 Twin Carb model, as expected, produces more power than the single carb version.
From 1973 to 1976 the twin carb 2200cc version was produced. Up to a point, these fine cars are're comparable with the V8 in terms of power and performance. The truth is however, that nowadays there's no such thing as a deserted road to unleash the horsepower. Ours is now a world of speed cameras and traffic jams. Plus the whole concept of driving a classic Rover is different.
The TC versions are not rare nor or are they much more expensive than the rest of the P6 range. The entire P6 range is a sturdy car that has bolt-on panels and is relatively easy to work on for the home mechanic with one notable exception.
Then there's also the P6B - the one with the V8 engine. The beast of the P6 range. The real steel of what was then Rover. It's these V8s in the P6 range that command higher prices but are real value for money.
Early V8s (the Series 1) are identifiable by their pressed steel/aluminium grill. These Series 1 V8s have the higher compression engines (10.5:1)Series 2 models had the 'plastic eggbox' grill and lower compression engines.
The P6B was available with either automatic or manual gearbox although the vast majority of V8s you'll see for sale are automatics. The reason being that -at the time - a specially strengthened manual gearbox (beefier bearings) was available for police cars (the traditional jam-jar seen on the motorways at the time) and those manual boxes weren't fitted as standard to the ordinary P6B on the the grounds of cost. The V8 engine produced so much torque at that time of motoring history that ordinary manual boxes soon became 'shredded.' It wasn't until later that a decent manual box became available to the general public - at extra cost.
It is for this reason that manual versions are a bit more expensive (and not so common) than the automatic variants. The manual version is designated by the letter 'S' i.e 3500S. It is possible to put a manual box from the later SD1 Rover into a P6B, though you need the crossmembers and prop shaft from the donor car as well. And you also have to make sure that it is the correct SD1 gearbox - not any old box will do.
P6 V8 Estate
The estate wasn't actually produced by Rover. Firms like FLM Panelcraft modified them into estates. They command slightly higher prices than the bog standard V8, though with the exception of the tailgate and a couple of specialised filler-panels they're the same car. I owned an estate for a while. As estate cars they're not much practical use. The flooring that sits above the fuel tank cuts down storage space. They're more of a curiosity and a piece of motoring history.
Fuel Consumption
The entire P6 2000/2200 range - take 25 mpg as a realistic topmost figure. They're not out and out fuel guzzlers in comparison with other cars, but they're not 1000cc diesels either. For the P6 V8 range take 21 mpg gallon as a realistic norm. There's no noticeable difference between the manual and auto versions (people tend to put the pedal down more in the manual version ..). The P5B is heavier on fuel as it's a heavier car.
Achilles heels
1. 4 Cylinder P6
The 4 cylinder P6's are overhead cams with a top timing chain and a lower timing chain. If the timing chain tensioners become worn (they're adjustable) or have insufficient engine oil to lubricate them, the chains rapidly wear. A worn timing chain is characterised by a 'ringing' sound. The top timing chain is relatively easy to replace; the bottom one - remove the engine. If the top timing chain snaps say goodbye to the valves etc .. If the bottom one snaps there'll be less to smile about. Not an every day occurrence of course, just something to be aware of. They're tough, hardy cars.
2. P6 Rover V8
More of a niggle really. The car comes to a grinding halt because fuel isn't getting pumped to the carbs. You fit a new pump and the same thing happens a week later. A stop-gap measure is to remove the gasket that sits between the pump and block so that the arm othe pump reaches furher inside to sit on the driving cam..
The real fault is that the cam (not the camshaft) that drives the mechanical fuel pump is worn. The easiest option is to fit a high-pressue electric fuel pump instead. The V8 has relatively low oil pressure. A worthwhile modification is to fit a high-pressure oil pump which is a straightforward task. The oil pump is mounted on the side of the engine.
The (rear) Brakes
All P6's irrespective of whatever engine they have are fitted with inboard rear callipers/disks. The rear brakes are located at each side of the differential and not in the wheel hubs as per usual. Plus they're hinged calipers - they 'swing' because the brake piston only acts on one disk pad; the caliper swings slightly forcing the other pad against the disk.
To change these rear pads get the back of the car up on diy ramps as high as possible and remove the brake disks (easy). Don't try and change the pads with the car resting on 4 wheels - there isn't enough room and it's hassle. The important point is to be aware that before the new pads are fitted, the brake piston must be fully retracted - and that piston winds in. Don't try to push it home with a screwdriver -it must be wound in. Use a pair of pliers to wind it in like a screw - try forcing it home will cause damage to the mecahnism within the calliper.
After fitting new rear pads the handbrake usually doesn't work properly ... Disconnect the handbrake cable at the rear linkage, push the linkage arms in the opposite direction to which the handbrake cable pulls them and get somebody to press the brake pedal. You'll hear a series of clicks ... that's the ratchet and pawl mechanism inside the calipers adjusting the handbrake ... and it's this ratchet and pawl mechanism that you'll irreparably damage if you try and force home the brake piston. Wind it in with a pair of pliers. Get the car lifted at the back and the whole job is easy.
Engine Life
It's horses for courses - a well serviced car goes on longer of course. No P6 engine has a life comparable to that of a modern car. In the most general of terms, a P6 with 100,000 on the clock is heading for major overhaul time within the not too distant future. The V8 engine can go on longer, but much depends on its servicing.
The V8 has hydraulic tappets (valve clearances are done automatically with the engine oil pressure). On a poorly serviced V8 the top end of the engine sludges up and the valve clearances are lost and the engine suffers ... big style. If you're buying or have a V8 with a decent engine, use a thicker engine oil - a quality oil, not the cheap supermarket brands. Use an oil that is 'pumpable' and change it every 3000 miles and avoid that unnecessary engine wear. The same applies to the 4 cylinder models. Regular oil changes with a quality oil negates a lot of problems.
Swop engines and gearboxes to your heart's content. Though be aware that a 2000 manual gearbox put into a V8 won't last long .. the V8 gearbox is tougher, to handle that incredible torque. If you're converting from a 2000 single carb to a twin carb it's just as easy to change the entire engine/exhaust as it is to swop cylinder heads. If swopping heads you'll need the carbs (obviously) plus the choke cable and the exhaust downpipe from the donor car.
Converting a 2000 automatic to manual isn't difficult, though you do need the gearbox cross members and propshaft from the donor car. But it's a pointless task .. The auto has a wider gearbox tunnel which looks out of place on a manual conversion and it won't add any value to the car whatsoever.
The cylinder heads from any 4 cylinder P6 can be fitted to any other 4 cylinder P6 - though do remember the twin carb version needs the carb and cable to go with the head. And if you ever do change a head gasket/head on these engines - the head needs skiming first and it takes a long time to get the valve clearances right. Valve clearances are set by shim and bucket configurations. It takes time and patience and involves a micrometer and lots of shims... Once done, that's it. No future adjustment is needed (or possible).
You can replace a duff V8 engine with a 4 cylinder engine. I can't say that I've heard of anybody replacing a 4 cylinder with a V8 engine, though it can probably be done with blood sweat and tears.
Changing a V8 engine isn't a Sunday afternoon job either. There's not much room to work inside the V8 engine bay because it's such a big lump. The 4 cylinder engines - plenty of room.
Auto Gearboxes
On the entire P6 range - 4 cylinder and V8 there are 2 automatic geaboxes; the (earlier) Borg- Warner 35 and later 65. One has a rod linkage and the other a cable linkage. Either will fit your auto P6 - just remember to take the rods/cable with you from the donor car. If you're going to swop auto boxes unbolt them with the engine bellhousing - don't just try and remove the transmission part alone. It's real hassle .. The P5B uses the same auto gearbox.
The V8 Engine
Early V8 Rovers (including some 4 cylinder models.)had high compression engines fitted (10.5:1) ten point five to one. That was way back when there was 2, 3,4 a and 5 star fuel available (5 star was higher octane). The term 'unleaded' didn't exist, as did unleaded fuel ...
Those early V8 engines were designed to run on high octane leaded fuel. Those early engines have a high tolerance to unleaded fuel but they're not suited for sustained use on unleaded. You need to use a lead substitute additive and an octane booster - or have the valves/ valve seats converted for use with unleaded fuel.
There's a varietyof different V8 engines with different compression ratios: the compression ratios are stamped on a 'tag' on the engine block. British Leyland Sherpas - the 'people carrier' variety of the late eighties and early nineties had low compresiion V8 engines fitted (7.5:1) which are more suited to the low octane fuels of today. All V8 engines will fit.
These later engines fit straight into a P5B or P6B. Original engines they are not, obviously, but an engine is an engine and keeps the car on the road. Emission controls for the mot go on the year of the car,not the engine.
The P6B - the V8 - finished production in 1976. The engine lived on. In 1976 ish BL introduced the Rover SD1. Amongst the choice of engines was the V8 (avoid the 2300 and 2600 like the plague .. with apologies to that respective car club .. but owning an SD1 at the time meant that you got plenty of exercise walking to the nearest phonebox to call the breakdown services .. the 2300 and 2600 'blew' had gaskets/seized camshafts with monotonous regularity ..). The V8 variant was the one to go for.
From 1976 when the P6B finished production ('last of the real Rovers') the only real significant engine V8 engine change was to increase the diameter of the valves. Therefore you can put the heads from a later V8 engine onto an earlier one without any troubles, Change the engine - it's just the valve diameter that's different. The lower ratio compression is due to the pistons. The Rover V8 engine is legendary in motoring history
What to Pay?
Actually, prices have remained pretty stable for years. In 1990 a superb P6B cost about 1500 pounds. They cost the same in 2008. That's real value for money. The manual version of the P6 V8 is the benchmark -automatics cost less. They're all superb cars. 4 cylinder P6s cost less than V8s. Buy the condition of the car -whatever version you go for. Concours - top condition, low mileage and faultless cars go for more... naturally. In relative terms,4 cylinder models aren't worth a lot in contrast with modern second-hand car prices. Nobody admires a 1 year old car .. it's different when you drive a 'classic' whatever the engine size.
P5s and P5Bs are more expensive than P6s for the simple reason that fewer were manufactured and there's less of them on the market. Like all classic Rovers, condition and location dictates the price, though the averge price for a good P4 is around 2000 pounds. Top flight models in concours condition ... a lot more. Just like any car."
Make of that what you will......
"Early P6's had the pressed steel 'shark's teeth' grill whereas the Series2 has the 'eggbox' grill
This came in a number of variants - the 2000 single carb, the twin carb version,the single carb automatic and the 2200 single carb. Initially the P6 was intended to be powered by a jet engine; hence the layout of the engine bay and steering arm that runs along the rear engine bulkead with an idler on the opposite side to the steering box. Contrary to common misconception, the jet engine was never intended to 'blow' the car along - it would have powered the rear wheels as per normal. It was abandoned on the grounds of cost and conventional 4 cylinder engines fitted.
By todays standards the single carb 2000cc engine won't exactly set the world alight but for the price these cars can still be purchased, they're worth having.
The 2000 automatic can best be described as a slug. Nice car, but ... Plus when old (like they are now..) the gearbox and engine mountain rubbers could become 'tired' and soft, allowing the auto box to move and rock - causing the flexi plate (instead of a flywheel) that connects engine to gearbox to crack then break.
For the home mechanic repair means removing the engine first to get at the flexi plate. The easy way to do it is to lift the car on a hoist to get at the gearbox, though not everyone has a hydraulic 4-post ramp at home. Trying to remove the auto transmission from the engine bellhousing using ordinary diy drive-on ramps is a no-no unless you particularly enjoy hassle and ruing the day you were born. Take the engine out first. It can be done in 45 minutes. A quick check is to reach underneath the car and see if you can rock the auto box from side to side -if so, things need tightening before trouble occurs.
The 2000 Twin Carb model, as expected, produces more power than the single carb version.
From 1973 to 1976 the twin carb 2200cc version was produced. Up to a point, these fine cars are're comparable with the V8 in terms of power and performance. The truth is however, that nowadays there's no such thing as a deserted road to unleash the horsepower. Ours is now a world of speed cameras and traffic jams. Plus the whole concept of driving a classic Rover is different.
The TC versions are not rare nor or are they much more expensive than the rest of the P6 range. The entire P6 range is a sturdy car that has bolt-on panels and is relatively easy to work on for the home mechanic with one notable exception.
Then there's also the P6B - the one with the V8 engine. The beast of the P6 range. The real steel of what was then Rover. It's these V8s in the P6 range that command higher prices but are real value for money.
Early V8s (the Series 1) are identifiable by their pressed steel/aluminium grill. These Series 1 V8s have the higher compression engines (10.5:1)Series 2 models had the 'plastic eggbox' grill and lower compression engines.
The P6B was available with either automatic or manual gearbox although the vast majority of V8s you'll see for sale are automatics. The reason being that -at the time - a specially strengthened manual gearbox (beefier bearings) was available for police cars (the traditional jam-jar seen on the motorways at the time) and those manual boxes weren't fitted as standard to the ordinary P6B on the the grounds of cost. The V8 engine produced so much torque at that time of motoring history that ordinary manual boxes soon became 'shredded.' It wasn't until later that a decent manual box became available to the general public - at extra cost.
It is for this reason that manual versions are a bit more expensive (and not so common) than the automatic variants. The manual version is designated by the letter 'S' i.e 3500S. It is possible to put a manual box from the later SD1 Rover into a P6B, though you need the crossmembers and prop shaft from the donor car as well. And you also have to make sure that it is the correct SD1 gearbox - not any old box will do.
P6 V8 Estate
The estate wasn't actually produced by Rover. Firms like FLM Panelcraft modified them into estates. They command slightly higher prices than the bog standard V8, though with the exception of the tailgate and a couple of specialised filler-panels they're the same car. I owned an estate for a while. As estate cars they're not much practical use. The flooring that sits above the fuel tank cuts down storage space. They're more of a curiosity and a piece of motoring history.
Fuel Consumption
The entire P6 2000/2200 range - take 25 mpg as a realistic topmost figure. They're not out and out fuel guzzlers in comparison with other cars, but they're not 1000cc diesels either. For the P6 V8 range take 21 mpg gallon as a realistic norm. There's no noticeable difference between the manual and auto versions (people tend to put the pedal down more in the manual version ..). The P5B is heavier on fuel as it's a heavier car.
Achilles heels
1. 4 Cylinder P6
The 4 cylinder P6's are overhead cams with a top timing chain and a lower timing chain. If the timing chain tensioners become worn (they're adjustable) or have insufficient engine oil to lubricate them, the chains rapidly wear. A worn timing chain is characterised by a 'ringing' sound. The top timing chain is relatively easy to replace; the bottom one - remove the engine. If the top timing chain snaps say goodbye to the valves etc .. If the bottom one snaps there'll be less to smile about. Not an every day occurrence of course, just something to be aware of. They're tough, hardy cars.
2. P6 Rover V8
More of a niggle really. The car comes to a grinding halt because fuel isn't getting pumped to the carbs. You fit a new pump and the same thing happens a week later. A stop-gap measure is to remove the gasket that sits between the pump and block so that the arm othe pump reaches furher inside to sit on the driving cam..
The real fault is that the cam (not the camshaft) that drives the mechanical fuel pump is worn. The easiest option is to fit a high-pressue electric fuel pump instead. The V8 has relatively low oil pressure. A worthwhile modification is to fit a high-pressure oil pump which is a straightforward task. The oil pump is mounted on the side of the engine.
The (rear) Brakes
All P6's irrespective of whatever engine they have are fitted with inboard rear callipers/disks. The rear brakes are located at each side of the differential and not in the wheel hubs as per usual. Plus they're hinged calipers - they 'swing' because the brake piston only acts on one disk pad; the caliper swings slightly forcing the other pad against the disk.
To change these rear pads get the back of the car up on diy ramps as high as possible and remove the brake disks (easy). Don't try and change the pads with the car resting on 4 wheels - there isn't enough room and it's hassle. The important point is to be aware that before the new pads are fitted, the brake piston must be fully retracted - and that piston winds in. Don't try to push it home with a screwdriver -it must be wound in. Use a pair of pliers to wind it in like a screw - try forcing it home will cause damage to the mecahnism within the calliper.
After fitting new rear pads the handbrake usually doesn't work properly ... Disconnect the handbrake cable at the rear linkage, push the linkage arms in the opposite direction to which the handbrake cable pulls them and get somebody to press the brake pedal. You'll hear a series of clicks ... that's the ratchet and pawl mechanism inside the calipers adjusting the handbrake ... and it's this ratchet and pawl mechanism that you'll irreparably damage if you try and force home the brake piston. Wind it in with a pair of pliers. Get the car lifted at the back and the whole job is easy.
Engine Life
It's horses for courses - a well serviced car goes on longer of course. No P6 engine has a life comparable to that of a modern car. In the most general of terms, a P6 with 100,000 on the clock is heading for major overhaul time within the not too distant future. The V8 engine can go on longer, but much depends on its servicing.
The V8 has hydraulic tappets (valve clearances are done automatically with the engine oil pressure). On a poorly serviced V8 the top end of the engine sludges up and the valve clearances are lost and the engine suffers ... big style. If you're buying or have a V8 with a decent engine, use a thicker engine oil - a quality oil, not the cheap supermarket brands. Use an oil that is 'pumpable' and change it every 3000 miles and avoid that unnecessary engine wear. The same applies to the 4 cylinder models. Regular oil changes with a quality oil negates a lot of problems.
Swop engines and gearboxes to your heart's content. Though be aware that a 2000 manual gearbox put into a V8 won't last long .. the V8 gearbox is tougher, to handle that incredible torque. If you're converting from a 2000 single carb to a twin carb it's just as easy to change the entire engine/exhaust as it is to swop cylinder heads. If swopping heads you'll need the carbs (obviously) plus the choke cable and the exhaust downpipe from the donor car.
Converting a 2000 automatic to manual isn't difficult, though you do need the gearbox cross members and propshaft from the donor car. But it's a pointless task .. The auto has a wider gearbox tunnel which looks out of place on a manual conversion and it won't add any value to the car whatsoever.
The cylinder heads from any 4 cylinder P6 can be fitted to any other 4 cylinder P6 - though do remember the twin carb version needs the carb and cable to go with the head. And if you ever do change a head gasket/head on these engines - the head needs skiming first and it takes a long time to get the valve clearances right. Valve clearances are set by shim and bucket configurations. It takes time and patience and involves a micrometer and lots of shims... Once done, that's it. No future adjustment is needed (or possible).
You can replace a duff V8 engine with a 4 cylinder engine. I can't say that I've heard of anybody replacing a 4 cylinder with a V8 engine, though it can probably be done with blood sweat and tears.
Changing a V8 engine isn't a Sunday afternoon job either. There's not much room to work inside the V8 engine bay because it's such a big lump. The 4 cylinder engines - plenty of room.
Auto Gearboxes
On the entire P6 range - 4 cylinder and V8 there are 2 automatic geaboxes; the (earlier) Borg- Warner 35 and later 65. One has a rod linkage and the other a cable linkage. Either will fit your auto P6 - just remember to take the rods/cable with you from the donor car. If you're going to swop auto boxes unbolt them with the engine bellhousing - don't just try and remove the transmission part alone. It's real hassle .. The P5B uses the same auto gearbox.
The V8 Engine
Early V8 Rovers (including some 4 cylinder models.)had high compression engines fitted (10.5:1) ten point five to one. That was way back when there was 2, 3,4 a and 5 star fuel available (5 star was higher octane). The term 'unleaded' didn't exist, as did unleaded fuel ...
Those early V8 engines were designed to run on high octane leaded fuel. Those early engines have a high tolerance to unleaded fuel but they're not suited for sustained use on unleaded. You need to use a lead substitute additive and an octane booster - or have the valves/ valve seats converted for use with unleaded fuel.
There's a varietyof different V8 engines with different compression ratios: the compression ratios are stamped on a 'tag' on the engine block. British Leyland Sherpas - the 'people carrier' variety of the late eighties and early nineties had low compresiion V8 engines fitted (7.5:1) which are more suited to the low octane fuels of today. All V8 engines will fit.
These later engines fit straight into a P5B or P6B. Original engines they are not, obviously, but an engine is an engine and keeps the car on the road. Emission controls for the mot go on the year of the car,not the engine.
The P6B - the V8 - finished production in 1976. The engine lived on. In 1976 ish BL introduced the Rover SD1. Amongst the choice of engines was the V8 (avoid the 2300 and 2600 like the plague .. with apologies to that respective car club .. but owning an SD1 at the time meant that you got plenty of exercise walking to the nearest phonebox to call the breakdown services .. the 2300 and 2600 'blew' had gaskets/seized camshafts with monotonous regularity ..). The V8 variant was the one to go for.
From 1976 when the P6B finished production ('last of the real Rovers') the only real significant engine V8 engine change was to increase the diameter of the valves. Therefore you can put the heads from a later V8 engine onto an earlier one without any troubles, Change the engine - it's just the valve diameter that's different. The lower ratio compression is due to the pistons. The Rover V8 engine is legendary in motoring history
What to Pay?
Actually, prices have remained pretty stable for years. In 1990 a superb P6B cost about 1500 pounds. They cost the same in 2008. That's real value for money. The manual version of the P6 V8 is the benchmark -automatics cost less. They're all superb cars. 4 cylinder P6s cost less than V8s. Buy the condition of the car -whatever version you go for. Concours - top condition, low mileage and faultless cars go for more... naturally. In relative terms,4 cylinder models aren't worth a lot in contrast with modern second-hand car prices. Nobody admires a 1 year old car .. it's different when you drive a 'classic' whatever the engine size.
P5s and P5Bs are more expensive than P6s for the simple reason that fewer were manufactured and there's less of them on the market. Like all classic Rovers, condition and location dictates the price, though the averge price for a good P4 is around 2000 pounds. Top flight models in concours condition ... a lot more. Just like any car."
Make of that what you will......
