Idiots guide to removing doors please? P6

CV35Ian

Member
I am swapping the NS doors on my car for some better (but not rust free as the seller stated!!) ones!

So questions:
is this a one man job (sorry -"person");
how do you release the front door stay from the sill - looks like a cap not a nut;
what order do I do things?
how easy is it to swap locks?
how long should I allow?

Thanks

Ian
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

It's a one person job, although the doors are heavy, especially the front ones.

Pop the cap off the check strap (it will most likely split :( ) & lift the strap off the stub. Undo the larger locknut on the lower "hinge" & wind the pin down until clear. Unhook the door off the top hinge by lifting the door up. The beauty of P6 doors is that this does not disturb the alignment as the hinges are not moved, although if the doors are being changed it doesn't really matter.

Allow 5 minutes per door to this point :D. The locks can be swapped, but this is fiddly. You need the door cards off & some long & nimble fingers to get to a large spring clip that fixes the lock to the outer skin via 2 or 3 lugs on the lock barrel. A good squirt of "WD" beforehand will help. The clip can be prised out with a screwdriver, but is fiddly to get back in.



Bingo! :D
 
Thanks Phil,

Most helpful, i'll have a go and let you know how I get on................a mate suggested a trolley jack and a piece of wood under door to help lift and lower, might be worth trying.

Ian
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

CV35Ian said:
..a mate suggested a trolley jack and a piece of wood under door to help lift and lower, might be worth trying.

I don't think you need to do this, Ian - it might just get in the way. Also, you'll have to tilt the door by lifting the rear edge up a bit, so the lower hinge pin clears the hinge. Put a piece of cloth on the part of the door that fits under the bonnet edge which will protect it when you lift it.

If you can't tilt the door up at the rear edge, you haven't wound the lower pin down far enough & it's fouling the hinge.
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

If you gently lever the end of the door check strap upwards, and not try to lever the cap off on its own, it can usually be taken off and reused.

To put it back, push it into position and place a suitable sized socket over it. Then tap the socket. This will tighten it and put even pressure around it without damaging the chrome top.

Don't put the door down onto concrete as it will damage the paint, no matter how carefully you do it. An old piece of carpet is ideal to rest it on.

Best to change the locks after you have refitted it as you will need to apply some pressure to remove the clip, and the door can get loose and get damaged if you have it leant against a wall or whatever.

Richard
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

CV35Ian said:
how do you release the front door stay from the sill - looks like a cap not a nut;

Undo it and remove it from the door, not the sill.
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

Phil Robson said:
If you can't tilt the door up at the rear edge, you haven't wound the lower pin down far enough

You raise the lower pin, not lower it. The upper pin is the one the door hangs on, the lower one just drops down into the cup on the door to locate it.
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

Open the window and lift the door off the upper pin using your shoulder under the window frame.
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

harveyp6 said:
Phil Robson said:
If you can't tilt the door up at the rear edge, you haven't wound the lower pin down far enough

You raise the lower pin, not lower it. The upper pin is the one the door hangs on, the lower one just drops down into the cup on the door to locate it.

Doh.. well spotted Harvey! Sorry for any confusion Ian. :oops:
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

Hi Ian,

As you're swapping doors, don't be surprised if the replacement doors don't sit like your original ones. I am not saying that they will for sure, just that they may not.

You many need to adjust the hinge pins and/or the position of the frames within the doors, if they don't sit or close as they should.

You can spend many hours indeed if they don't close properly.

Ron.
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

harveyp6 said:
CV35Ian said:
how do you release the front door stay from the sill - looks like a cap not a nut;

Undo it and remove it from the door, not the sill.

Good idea, but (there's always a but :) ), just be careful when re-attaching it. If you're laid on your back under it, trying to locate the bolt holes, and you let the door go, without the strap connected, it can swing forwards and hit the wing. This is bad news - don't ask me how I know :?

Richard
 
Re: Idiots duide to removing doors please? P6

harveyp6 said:
CV35Ian said:
how do you release the front door stay from the sill - looks like a cap not a nut;

Undo it and remove it from the door, not the sill.

I don't know if Rover changed for the series 2 cars, but on series 1 cars one of the check strap bolts does not go into a captive nut on the door, so you have to pull the door card loose to get a wrench inside the door. Just saying.

Yours
Vern
 
Thanks all

Still not got round to doing it but :

have lots of cardboard to place on floor to avoid damage;
have also bribed a friend with a beer or two so that should help.

Ian
 
Front door off - relatively painless!
However..........
how does the window winder handle off I've released a clip but it won't budge.
Ian
 
CV35Ian said:
how does the window winder handle off I've released a clip but it won't budge.

It should come off by just pushing the clip, if not remove the clip completely, and if it still won't come off, someone's glued it on....
 
Yep I think glued, now working on solution to save door card!

Managed to scratch door on wing when fitting - but its more solid than the original at least.

And, how do you get the horizontal rubber trim back on (outside at base of window) - came off fine, going back on a pain.

Ian
 
Hi Ian,

The rubber piece that runs along the top outside edge of the door against the glass is located by a number of screws accessable from inside the door cavity. If you losen the four screws which retain the frame within the door, thus allowing the frame to move slighty, you'll find sliding the rubber into place substantially easier. Once in, move the frame back to its original position relative to the door and tighten the retaining screws. Locate and secure the screws within the holes in the aforementioned rubber and you're done.

Ron.
 
SydneyRoverP6B said:
Hi Ian,

The rubber piece that runs along the top outside edge of the door against the glass is located by a number of screws accessable from inside the door cavity. If you losen the four screws which retain the frame within the door, thus allowing the frame to move slighty, you'll find sliding the rubber into place substantially easier. Once in, move the frame back to its original position relative to the door and tighten the retaining screws. Locate and secure the screws within the holes in the aforementioned rubber and you're done.

Ron.

Thanks for that........will have a go
 
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